Staining Poplar

[Mike Wilkins]

In the process of refinishing a poplar drop leaf table that was stained to look like cherry. Customer wants to go back with another color stain in a walnut or slightly darker look. Not my choice but the customer is always right OK?
My question is this: is it necessary to pre-treat the poplar with a conditioner before staining. I usually use oil based stains such as Minwax. But I am having a fit second-guessing myself that a conditioner is needed.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Jim Becker]

I work a lot with poplar...'cause I have a lot of it...and use water-soluble dyes to color it. I've never used a conditioner, but then again, I'm not one who "believes in blotch". Your best bet is to do some testing on scrap to determine what works best for you...with our without "conditioner".

[James Carmichael]

Hey Jim,

What particular dyes do you use on popular? Brands?

Thanks,

James

[Jim Becker]

TransTint is the only one I've used.

[Larry Norton]

I, too, use a lot of poplar. I have had great results using General Finishes Environmentally Friendly water base stains. Unlike most WB stains, E.F. stains are thicker, like a gel stain. I used their Cherry stain on this deacon's bench. By the way, in the second photo, it looks like I cut the left corner off the bottom. There was actually something blocking it.

You can get the stain at Woodcraft and Rockler.

[Kevin Bannwolf]

Larry,

I'm new to this forum, but have been trying to stain some poplar. I like your results, and after trying both dyes and stains, I think I will go with the stain. I have one question for you....did you apply any wood conditioner or sealer before you used the stain? Your reply would be greatly appreciated...thanks!


Kevin

[Don Selke]

As has been suggested, experiment on scrap wood prior to applying any method of stain application. I too use Trans Tint dyes along with a very diluted coat of de-waxed shellac as a sealer prior to staining on soft woods like pine, poplar etc. Any conditioner prior to staining will make the final stained finish much lighter so you may have to apply a second coat of stain. Apply your finishing method to several scrap boards and vary your application of stain etc. Choose the method you like best before commiting your self to the finished project.

[John Timberlake]

One difficulty with using the dyes on a refinish job is any residual finish. This may seal the surface unevenly and cause the dye to soak in unevenly. Likewise, stain may be uneven if you have bare wood and wood that still has some finish on it. I would probably go with a seal coat of dewaxed shellac and then a stain.

[John Petsche]

good suggestions.

[John TenEyck]

One difficulty with using the dyes on a refinish job is any residual finish. This may seal the surface unevenly and cause the dye to soak in unevenly. Likewise, stain may be uneven if you have bare wood and wood that still has some finish on it. I would probably go with a seal coat of dewaxed shellac and then a stain.

That's the approach I would take, too. The other option I'd consider is to spray a toner of Sealcoat shellac cut 50% with DNA + Transtint, after sealing it. This puts the color on top but gives the same clarity as dye - with none of the problems mentioned. Then topcoat. Which way I'd go would depend upon the condition of the piece. If it's uniform in color I'd go the toner coat route. If it's got dark or light spots, strange grain, etc., I'd go the stain route.

John