Update/Aquarium Stand Pics

[Norman Hitt]

(Hopefully), here will be the latest AND "Semi-completed" project pictures. As you can see, there were some changes from the Original design features that I posted before.:rolleyes: The end Stile Flutes were eliminated, and the center section pull out with storeage in the back section was eliminated because the amount of storeage gained was not worth losing the extra 1" width of the center section shelves to accomodate the drawer slides, AND it would have been somewhat MORE difficult to handle the difuser setup for the center section Overhead Lighting that they suddenly decided they wanted. By adding lighting in the Center section, the two adjustable shelves will now be Glass instead of wood, since the top shelf , (if wood), would have blocked the lighting for the lower shelves and "Not been a Good Thing".:eek: (They hadn't thought about that).;) The Difuser panel in the top of the center section can be lifted about 1/4" and slid back onto a fixed shelf with a stop at the rear, to accomodate changing light bulbs or fixtures, without the diffuser panel falling into the dead space behind the center panel, but it can also be lifted and bent a certain way and removed through the front of the center section, should this be necessary. The two shelves in back of the top portion of the end sections will be for mounting Ballasts for aquarium lighting and/or other electrical items. The two slots you can see that are cut in the back panel of each end section are for electric cords, and pump hoses. There are also holes, (larger than electrical cord plugs drilled in both of the center section dividers up close to the top, near the rear of the compartment to be able to fish wiring from the end panels to the center section, or from one end panel through to the other end panel inside the case without having them strung out on the outside of the back of the case.

I am not pleased with the lightweight hinges we got locally (because they didn't want to wait for "Ordered" ones to get here).:rolleyes: They seem to bend, or shift slightly every time a door is opened or closed,:( changing the gap space between the door and face frame, and "MANY" readjustments and retrimming the door edging, (and even replacing the edging twice),:mad: I finally said to heck with it, and trimmed a little wider spacing and let it go.

Note to Self: DO NOT "EVER" agree to use light weight hinges on any project with Doors Again.

I cannot figure out what has caused the dark area to appear on the right door, as it wasn't there originally. It may have to be bleached before finishing, as it is grey/black similar to spalting. Has anyone had this happen before?:confused:

Thanks for looking.....Norm

Sorry, I Can't get the pics to load, but also internet probs. tonight, so will add pics later when I figure it out.

[J. Scott Chambers]

Any update on these pictures? I may be building one soon and have been looking at others for ideas.

[Norman Hitt]

Any update on these pictures? I may be building one soon and have been looking at others for ideas.

Sorry, not yet, but hopefully soon. I have a Glitch in my computer somewhere, (it has even shut down three times lately), and my Computer Guru is trying to work it into his schedule to come find the problem and fix it.

I'm pretty pleased with my design to fit the users wants, and the way it turned out overall, as it has a fairly simple, clean look but is very stout and rock solid.

I will post the final pics, (sans finish) as soon as he gets this brainless machine fixed.

[Norman Hitt]

This first Shot shows the 1/4" bead on the protruding edge banding at the top and bottom of each door which was for a look I wanted.
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The second shot was supposed to show the difuser light panel in the top of the center section, for the overhead lights to light the items on the two glass shelves that will be used in the center section for pictures and/or other items, but for some reason the flash didn't go off, (operator "IGNORANCE" I'm sure).
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The third shot shows the top that was made of the cheaper Birch Ply, banded in Oak, because it will be under the aquarium and will not show.
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In the fourth shot, you can barely make out the two adjustable narrow (10") shelves close to the top where lighting ballasts and other electronics will be mounted.
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The picture of the back shows the holes for electrical, air bubbler hoses, etc.
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Since that's five pics, I'll put one more shot in another post.

[Norman Hitt]

OK, this is the last one, but I will try to remember to get a shot under the bottom to show the base and runners I put under there, when we startr to move it to the finisher's, and I have some help to lay it down.
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Even though it has seemingly taken forever to complete, it has been a fun project even with the changes, etc., at least it is "MY" design, without really ever even paying attention to any Aquarium Stands, and it was designed around the specific size and other requirements of my friend and the LOHL.

Soooooooo, I guess I'll have to take credit for any design shortcomings that turn up, and definitely for any and all Boo, Boo's in it's construction, and with that Disclaimer.......I submit it to all of you for your comments and critique. Please let me know what you think, (and BE HONEST), 'cause I've got BIG Shoulders, and can take it, and I really want to know how my design Ideas are recieved by others, OR I can never Improve.

Thanks for looking.

[Bruce Page]

Beautiful work Norman. What size tank did you make it for? It looks similar in size to the one I built for my 110 gallon Oceanic. Is the space behind the center panel dead space?

Very Nice!

[Cecil Arnold]

Looks really good Norman. You sure you got enough water there in Odessa to fill a big tank?

[Ken Garlock]

Norm, the only fish worthy of that palace would be a dozen discus.:D

[Corey Hallagan]

Very nice Norman. That will look great with your tank I am sure!

Corey

[Jack Ferrell]

Nice fuctional design that really looks great Norman. You seem to have thought it out very well. I'll show it to my daughter as she has been after me to build one for her. Thanks for showing it to us.

[John Scarpa]

Norm, I think you did a great job there. Get us a picture when you get in place with the tank!

[Norman Hitt]

Thanks to all for the nice comments.

Bruce, the tank will be a 135 gallon unit, and the space behind the center section is dead space. Originally I had designed that section to be on drawer slides but they decided they didn't really need that small amount of extra storeage for the additional 1" of center section width we would have lost to the drawer slides. The back that you see of that center section is 3/4" oak ply and REALLY adds a lot of additional racking stability, (Not that it needed any more);) . The length of the cabinet, excluding the trim overhang is 72" x 22 1/2" deep (excluding front trim overhang), x 40" tall + 1/2" for the UHMW "slider feet". The Tank will sit even with the front face of the cabinet, (about 1 3/4" back from the front edge of the trim), and will have about 5" of dead space behind it. There will be a black cloth background against the back of the tank to make the fish show up better. After they get it fully operational, I will make a cantilevered, hinged, (flip up) Canopy for the top.

Cecil, I'm thinking we may have to ship up to Jim Becker and get him to fill it up and send it back.:D

Ken, What are discus?:confused: I don't know much about Tropical fish, but my daughters could tell me, as they worked at a large Importer's "Fish Farm" while they were in College.

Corey, it's not for me, it's for my friend. I don't want anything else I have to feed, or Clean Up after.:D

Jack, you might as well jump on in and get your feet wet, (pun intended) on one of these, 'cause "I KNOW" how persuasive Daughter's can be.:rolleyes:

John, I will post more pictures of it when we build the Canopy, and it is all "finished", and fully functional.

My Personal Criteria for this Design, was;
1. Extra Strong and solid, with extra precautions to prevent Racking.
2. Simple, but Elegant lines that would look good, but not distract from
the Fish tank and it's occupants.
3. Stay @ or under $500 for Matl's, (which was the price of the Cheapest,
lightweight model they had found and it was made from Particle board,
(which wasn't easy buying S4S oak at a local building center), but we will
make it, except for Door pulls, Finishing supplies and 2 glass shelves,
which weren't in the original plans, (but neither was the center section
overhead lighting).:D

[Bruce Page]

Norman, I’m looking forward to seeing it fully setup.
Discus are beautiful fish with a thin disk shaped body and can actually grow quite large. They don’t like mixed company so if you have discus that’s all you will have – at least that was my experience with them a long time ago.

[Jason R Tibbetts]

Norm,

Great-looking stand! I know a lot of hobbyists in my local club who would love to upgrade to something like that from their bricks-and-boards setups.

My question is why you opted for a full top on the stand. Most stands that I've owned and seen are open-topped, with about 1/2" to 1" supports around the edges and cross-bracing where needed.

[Ken Garlock]

Norm, discus are from the Amazon river. The are really quite pretty and get their name from their shape. When viewed from the side, they look like a disk. The main problem with them is that they are quite particular about the ph of their water, and in captivity eat mainly brine shrimp. Basically, they are kind of hard to raise.

You can see some pictures at this site (http://www.somethingsphishy.com/).

[Norman Hitt]

Norman, I’m looking forward to seeing it fully setup.
Discus are beautiful fish with a thin disk shaped body and can actually grow quite large. They don’t like mixed company so if you have discus that’s all you will have – at least that was my experience with them a long time ago.

Thanks for the info, Bruce. I don't know if I've ever seen any of those or not, (probably have but didn't know what they were).:confused: I don't think my daughters ever had any of those when they had all their tanks. IIRC, they had three Tropical freshwater tanks and one "Large" Saltwater tank, but they finally got rid of them all, as it was too hard to rely on friends to take care of them when they needed to go somewhere. They had one really interesting Frog that grew about 9" long, and it's skin was "PINK", without any markings or color variation on it anywhere, and looked and felt like a baby's skin. It really showed up under the lights in the tank.

I'm going to be interested to see it "Finished", and set up also. They have been back & forth on what "finish" to put on it. She Really likes the way it looks now, and would kinda like something similar, but with the grain popped, but he wants it dark, like maybe a reddish brown Mahogany to more match their other furniture, so it will be interesting to see what they finally come up with, (and I'm sure NOT getting into that debate).;) :D The Grandfather that is going to do the "Finish" is 78, and has been a professional Painter since his retirement from the college, but said he didn't have much experience with stains & such, so I'm loaning him some of my finishing books, and my HVLP Conversion gun, (and Spray Finishing Book), and hope it works out well. I just don't have any more time to put into it at the present, as I have a lot of things to do before we will be leaving for two weeks or more later this month for the LOML to have a partial Knee Replacement Surgery, and I'm sure my time will be "Occupied" for a while after we get back.:rolleyes:

[Norman Hitt]

OK, here's the last Pic I promised, (for a while), until it is finished and in use. This shows the UHMW slider feet, and also the long strip down the center to keep the subbase cross members supported and inline when moving and to eliminate any sag that could occur in the center section from the weight.