Jointer & Planer Control Upgrades

[Matt Meiser]

I finally got around upgrading my Yorkcraft jointer and Delta planer to magnetic controls. I don't understand why more Delta tools don't come with magnetic controls for the price. Anyway, all the electrical components came from http://www.factorymation.com which I've used for a couple projects now. The parts for both tools came to about $50, plus the enclosures, fittings, etc which came from Lowes.

For the jointer, I cut off the box that held the original switch on top of a pedestal, leaving a small flange to mount the new box. I already had this box, but it had a big hole in the cover so I made a new one from ABS plastic. If I didn't have the box already, I would have gone with a plastic one. The IEC contactor and pushbuttons fit neatly in the 6x6x4 box.

The planer was a little harder as there isn't much room in the stock box which contains two capacitors in addition to the switch. I made a new cover and mounted the pushbuttons in place of the old switch. The contactor had to go somewhere else, so I used a piece of scrap steel I had to make a braket for a 4x4x4 box. Power and control wiriing runs under the motor from the original box to the new box. I can move the new box out of the way for knife changes by undoing one nut on the motor mount to remove the bracket.

[Les Spencer]

Matt,

Very nice job. Pro looking.:D

[John Miliunas]

Very nice job on the controls, Matt! :) I've got the opposite problem with mine; The Yorkie planer already has a magnetic switch, though my Delta jointer doesn't. :( Any possibility you could give us a "how-to", as well as a parts list??? :D I've often thought of getting one for my Delta and the W&H planer/molder but, have shy'd away, due to the pricing. :) :cool:

[Steve Ash]

Any possibility you could give us a "how-to", as well as a parts list???

Same here Matt, I have the same planer as you do, I'd like to use your idea to convert mine as well.:cool:

[Jim Becker]

Very nice work, Matt.

[Matt Meiser]

First a disclaimer that this is just what I did. I'm not responsible for how you use this information. You should consult with an electrician if you aren't sure of what you are doing.

OK, here's an attempt at a drawing of the wiring. All of the electrical parts came from http://www.factorymation.net. The contactor is rated for up to a 3HP single phase motor. I used a smaller one on my jointer, but it is only $1 less, so to save confusion I just listed the one.

To do one machine, I ordered the following:
CN-16-I6 (http://www.factorymation.net/s.nl/it.A/id.91/.f)
TECO IEC Contactor - 16A, 230VAC / 60Hz Coil, 3 Pole 600V, 1 N.O. Aux

BC01 (http://www.factorymation.net/s.nl/it.A/id.538/.f)
WEG 22mm Non-metallic, Single Contact Block, 1 N.C.

BC10 (http://www.factorymation.net/s.nl/it.A/id.537/.f)
WEG 22mm Non-metallic, Single Contact Block, 1 N.O.

BC1 (http://www.factorymation.net/s.nl/it.A/id.479/.f)
WEG 22mm Non-metallic, Mushroom Operator (40mm), IP66, Red

BF2 (http://www.factorymation.net/s.nl/it.A/id.475/.f)
WEG 22mm Non-metallic, Flush Operator, IP66, Green

These parts ran $25+shipping. In addition, I needed a box for both. I used a Carlon 4x4x4 box for the planer and a Weigmann 6x6x6 box for the jointer, both from Lowes. The fronts are ABS plastic sheet which I've had for several years. Aluminum sheet probably would have worked well too, just a little harder to drill the holes. Lowes also sell a nice Carlon 6x6x6 plastic box.

Where the cables entered the boxes, I used cord grip connectors. The ones I used came from a local hardware store and are a lot nicer than the ones Lowes sells. The ones at Lowes have an oval slot in the rubber bushing which I had to drill out round. I also needed some additional cord, sized the same as what was on the machines already and some extra wire for internal connections.

For the planer, I cut the cord off with enough length to run to the location of the new box. I then made a new power cord that runs into the new box. I also needed to run a 3 conductor cable for the pushbutton wiring between the old box and the new box. I just used more of the same cord for that. The bracket to mount the box is attached to the inboard rear motor mount bolt. It was just a piece of scrap steel I had, bent to a little more than a 90 degree angle. The 4x4 box was very tight to work in but I didn't really want to go bigger. I did all the wiring outside the box, then pulled the cables back when I was done. I had to CA glue the nuts to the contactor since I couldn't get my fingers in to start them.

[Steve Ash]

You should consult with an electrician if you aren't sure of what you are doing.

Good advice, glad I have two of them in the family.:D

Thanks for taking the time to post this information Matt, I'll print it out and give it to Jr. so he can make that change for me this winter.