Sliding TS & Scrap

[Shane Waggoner]

I've been reading as much as I can about sliding table saw attachments (Excalibur, Exaktor, Jessem, etc) but I have a question I can't find an answer to. When using the sliding table, what prevents the scrap cut off the end, on the right side of the blade, from getting kicked back? Unless I'm missing something, it seems like that piece of wood isn't held down by anything and could easily be caught back in the blade and flung out. TIA, and thanks for the wonderful forum. Shane

[Brian Hale]

Welcome to the Creek Shane!!!

The scrap will just sit there most of the time. Once in awhile it'll tap against the blade and perhaps even slide forward a bit but nothing like a kickback.

NOTE; This assumes you're NOT using the fence in combination with the slider, something you should NEVER do. If you must use the fence for this type of operation, like making several finished sized pieces and the fence will register the finished size, clamp a block to the fence in front of the blade. This way you'll register your piece against the block and then make your cut. The offcut piece won't become trapped between the fence and the blade which is what causes kickback.

Let's be careful out there ;)

Brian :)

[Roy Wall]

Hi Shane....and welcome!

As that piece gets cut at the very back end......

The smaller it is the more the leading edge will .....ever so slightly.... be tipped away from the blade - due to the "push" or "stroke" of the slider.

THis also happens with the common miter guage push....

The rear edge stays pretty close to the blade.

probably the same effect on a rip.....except that the push sends the piece a touch (technically) to the left........still away from the blade....

Physics at work-- I guess........

[John Miliunas]

Shane, Brian's explanation is spot on! :) Most all kickback happens when a piece is trapped (usually in a skewed position) between the blade and the fence. No fence, no kickback. Just think of when you use your miter gauge to the left of the blade. Same thing, really. :) :cool:

(Guess Roy and I were typing at the same time. He beat me!!!)

[Hoa Dinh]

When using the sliding table, what prevents the scrap cut off the end, on the right side of the blade, from getting kicked back? Unless I'm missing something, it seems like that piece of wood isn't held down by anything and could easily be caught back in the blade and flung out.
It's the same situation as when you use a miter gauge. Nothing keeps the off-cut on the right side of the blade. In fact, nothing should touch the off-cut.

[Mike Cutler]

Shane. Welcome to Sawmill Creek.

Brian's got it right.There just isn't enough energy developed. One thing that can happen is that the offcut piece, if small enough, can get caught between the blade and the throat plate and get tossed around. usually it's just loud and startles ya'. A zero clearance plate eliminates this little distraction.

Once again. Welcome to Sawmill Creek. Pleased to meet ya'

[Scott Thornton]

I'm not familiar with the after market sliding tables, but I can say this...on the Europeon saws, sliding tables are built on...the fences can also slide back toward you, so you can use them when you start, but slide them so they aren't past the blade, so you don't trap the wood, very cool.

If you have removable stops though, you could probably do just about any cut without the fence, I would guess.

[Gary Curtis]

In Feb, I got a General 350 with their sliding table. It is supported by an outrigger, and can crosscut a 4x8 ply sheet.

When using the Crosscut fence -which is sort of like a Miter Guage - the cut offs on repeated cuts just accumulate to the right of the blade. The newer cut-offs push the old ones to then rear where they eventually fall off the rear of the table. The blade guard prevents contact with the blade.

And, above all, keep your rip fence far the right. Clear of the action. The rip fence can cause nightmares.

Sliding table saws are the only machine with a crosscut fence.

Good luck.

Gary Curtis