Expert Help Needed On This One - Please!

[Christopher K. Hartley]

I think I'm in a bit over my head and need some direction. I really don't want to mess this oak up but I've not seen anything quite like this before. Before I hollow it is there anything I should do? I've gotton as close in the photos as I can so you can hopefully see what I see. Anyone who has turned this kind of stuff before, I would welcome some advice. Thanks:confused:

[Michael Stafford]

The best advice I can give you is to pack it in plastic wrap, carefully wrap it in bubble wrap and box it up for shipment to me.....I will study it carefully and see what I can turn from it.....Of course if I make a mess of it I will just add it to my collection.

Seriously, what are you going to turn from it? a vase, a bowl or a hollow form? I don't do hollowforms so I can't help you there.... If it is to be a bowl or vase then it is just a matter of turning it carefully. Establish your finished thickness at the top early and don't keep going back to it or you will encounter chatter. Sand and finish as you usually do. A spectacular piece of wood......

[Gary Max]

Lets give this a try---if I am seeing this right---there is a lot of tear out--sevreal very soft spots--bark inclusions----is this correct??????

[Jim Bell]

I would have finished the top 1/3 inside and out, then the center and then the bottom. Particularly with the inclusions in that piece. It is beautiful. The only problem I see is the bottom is so small and appearantly fragile that turning now will be difficult.
I hope you are successfull,
Jim

[Jim Ketron]

Looks to me like your ready to roll on that piece!
Looks can be deceiving on a burl, looks pretty solid to me. I turned a piece similar to this one that Dick Parr gave me to turn. It was very dry and hard, I turned a tall bowl with it close to your shape. and gave him the finished product maybe he will post a pic of it for you as I didn't have time to snap any shots.

[Jim Becker]

The one question I have is are you using a chuck that requires a dovetailed tenon that severe or at all? Also, make sure it's not too long to allow the chuck to seat fully up against the "bottom" above the dovetail...you're going to need that support on the top of the jaws.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Lets give this a try---if I am seeing this right---there is a lot of tear out--sevreal very soft spots--bark inclusions----is this correct??????Yes there is tearout but not very much is soft. Some of the dark areas seem a bit softer than the light areas but not what I'd call soft, at least not like I've had before. Some of the tearout seems to go pretty deep as well.

[Curtis O. Seebeck]

Christopher,

For the soft spot you could always hit it with some CA to strengthen it. One thing that I notice is it apears that your tenon is too long, at least that is how it looks in the picture. I believe you want to have your jaws tight against the bottom of the piece rather than having the tennon bottomed out in your chuck. Of course it depends on what chuck you have. I have a supernova 2 and it definately looks too long for my chuck.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

The one question I have is are you using a chuck that requires a dovetailed tenon that severe or at all? Also, make sure it's not too long to allow the chuck to seat fully up against the "bottom" above the dovetail...you're going to need that support on the top of the jaws. Jim, are you saying that the jaws should be resting against the work? This tenon is very similar to the way I cut most of my tenons, maybe not quite this long but seldom does the edge of the jaw ride the work. I'm using a Griz and have had no holding problems. That said, I'm willing to cut it shorter as I have not turned a piece this top heavy before. I was planning to hollow it with my tail stock in place until I got about 2/3rds in and then cut out the center support piece. I was wondering if you guys fill anything before turning or should I just begin hollowing?:confused: Thanks.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Christopher,

For the soft spot you could always hit it with some CA to strengthen it. One thing that I notice is it apears that your tenon is too long, at least that is how it looks in the picture. I believe you want to have your jaws tight against the bottom of the piece rather than having the tennon bottomed out in your chuck. Of course it depends on what chuck you have. I have a supernova 2 and it definately looks too long for my chuck. I try never to bottom out a tenon in my chuck even when the tenon is a bit longer. I will shorten it some though. Do you use the super thin CA to soak in deep?

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Looks to me like your ready to roll on that piece!
Looks can be deceiving on a burl, looks pretty solid to me. I turned a piece simmalar to this one that Dick Parr gave me to turn. It was very dry and hard, I turned a tall bowl with it close to your shape. and gave him the finished product maybe he will post a pic of it for you as I didnt have time to snap any shots. Thanks Jim. What do you suggest to finish something like this?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Chris..........for sure...you don't want the bottom of that tenon to make contact with the chuck where the jaws attach or with the jaws themselves! You want the outer edge of the jaws to make contact with a nice flat shoulder on the bowl to provide support to the tenon and help carry some of the load.

Good luck with it! It's a beautiful piece of wood and I hope it turns well!

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Chris..........for sure...you don't want the bottom of that tenon to make contact with the chuck where the jaws attach or with the jaws themselves! You want the outer edge of the jaws to make contact with a nice flat shoulder on the bowl to provide support to the tenon and help carry some of the load.

Good luck with it! It's a beautiful piece of wood and I hope it turns well!Got it thanks

[Bernie Weishapl]

Christopher when I get some soft spots in my wood I use the old epoxy cocktail. Mix up some 5 minute epoxy and then add DNA till it is the consistancy of milk. Paint it on until no more will soak in. Then I let it dry over night. Works nice for me. Christopher you got a nice looking piece of wood. I think it will finish out fine. Can't wait to see some pic's of it when you finished it.

[Raymond Overman]

Chris,

I think you may have the right idea with leaving the tailstock in place and doing the majority of roughing with a center support. Is the tenon portion of the piece punky? Does it have play in the chuck jaws where it the jaws touch the wood? If so, you may have some trouble once you start hollowing. Leave the center in as long as possible and cut the rim to thickness in stages about an inch at a time and you'll be fine. Sharp tools and sharp eyes on the piece if it starts wobbling the wrong way or doesn't sound right, get out of the way.

Good luck.

[Glenn Hodges]

You are getting the correct info about not letting the bottom of the chuck touch the bottom of the tenon. I am not sure, but if my eyes are not deceiving me, I think I can tell some natural cracks or openings between the darker and lighter wood. I would use some thin CA, then some thick CA to fill this void to keep the piece of wood from seperating while you are at a point of hollowing the walls of it down to the desired thinness. Epoxy might work for this, but I often use a black CA glue in a situation such as this. If CA glue is used put the piece aside for a few hours after spraying the CA with accelerator. Often times the thicker CA is only cured on top when you are in a hurry and return to turning to soon. The results is CA glue on the glasses or the eye lens. I think this oak piece could be stunning when you finish it with something to fill the pores after sanding. Then go to your regular finish. Good luck after having to read such a long winded reply.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, are you saying that the jaws should be resting against the work?

Always. You need a shoulder for the top of the jaws to be in contact with to provide proper support and greatly reduce the chance of snapping the tenon off. If you just grip the tenon, a good whack can cause problems. Further, you can't dismount and remount the piece "true" without the shoulder. Normally, one would provide the shoulder below the intended bottom of the piece, but in this case you're a little committed. Oh, and a tenon should never bottom out in the chuck...

[Ernie Nyvall]

Chris, that is some wild looking grain. Have you started the hollowing yet? How's it going?

Ernie

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Chris, that is some wild looking grain. Have you started the hollowing yet? How's it going?

Ernie Well I have started hollowing and in the process a catch caused the bowl to have two big pieces fly off. At least it held in the chuck. The breaks were along the dark crack lines and the pieces did not shatter so I was able to CA it back in place. I am letting it set good then I will CA it again with some thick and start the finishing process I do believe it is going to be ok. I will post pics no mater what the outcome. Thanks to everyone who helped me.:)