How to make this cut...

[Brian Triplett]

Ok, Drawing it out is one thing, making the accurate cut is another. I have made the aprons for this table but now I'm trying to figure out how to make the accurate cut to form the tenions. Any suggestions? :confused: (see picutures)

[Alan Turner]

If you can mark it accurately, you can cut it by hand with a DT or tenon saw. If you can't mark it accurately, you will have a problem with any set up.

I can imagine a set of curved cauls for use on a tenoning jig on a TS, but it would take longer to jig it up than to cut it by hand. Just a thought.

[Ernie Hobbs]

Another vote for cutting by hand. I'd cut the mortises square first and then mark and cut the tenons by hand. Be careful with your joints facing the front; you'll need to angle the shoulder to accomodate the angle of the tenon and ensure a tight joint.

If laid out properly, you can probably do most of it with a bandsaw and clean up with a hand plane and chisel. Once you figure out how to lay it out, it should go pretty fast.

[Mark Pruitt]

I like Alan's and Ernie's suggrestions to cut the tenon by hand, but given the fact that this is an apron for a table and likely not something that will endure a lot of abuse, I would consider buscuit joinery. Maybe not as much of a challenge, but it'll get the job done. Just a thought.

[Rich Torino]

I think I remember either a David Marks or Norm Abrams episode where they had a similar cut to make on a table apron and like everyone has said they marked it an cut it by hand..

[Brian Triplett]

Well I don't have a tenioning jig so that is out. Guess I need to figure out a way to mark it accurately, maybe a full scale drawing?

Mark, if I went the way of biscuits would I need just one biscuit per joint or two?

Thanks for the replies.

[Mark Pruitt]

Mark, if I went the way of biscuits would I need just one biscuit per joint or two?

Thanks for the replies.
Depends on the thickness of the apron. Probably only one per joint, unless your thickness is in excess of 1-1/4" or so.

[Doug Shepard]

... Guess I need to figure out a way to mark it accurately, maybe a full scale drawing?
...


That's how I dunnit on this table
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14758&d=1105363351
I did the drawing on a pc of MDF then laid the apron pieces on the MDF and transfered the layout lines to them and cut by hand.

[Michael Cody]

If'n it were me, I would make them floating tenons -- here is a spot where BeadLock would be a very reasonable choice I would think. Anyway floating tenons would be more forgiving and easier to do I would think.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

This looks very similar to the curved apron tennon that Norm cut on the Federal Game Table. He used BS for slightly over sized cuts and cleaned them up with a plane.

[Mark Singer]

It can be done by hand or with a bandsaw....Marking tenons on curved or angled components is critical....marking knife and cut on the waste side...pare with a chisel or a fine rasp

[Brian Triplett]

I like the idea of making them oversized and working them down to fit. Thanks for all the info. I'll try it this weekend.

[Chris Barton]

Hi Brian,

I will agree with most of the others that a hand cut tennon would likely work best. On the other hand, if you want easy and strong as well as fast, then there is another alternative. You could use pocket screwes and no tennons. The pocket screws could be placed on the inside of the approns and would be easy to align by eye. Also, this would eliminate the need for tennons...

[Brian Triplett]

Chris, I thought about the pocket hole screws except the drill with the long drill bit will not fit into the curve of the apron. There was not real good way to angle the drill. I probably just make a full scale drawing and try to mark it out the best I can. Thanks.