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View Full Version : How many HP to bandsaw a blank?



Tom Jones III
06-28-2006, 10:12 AM
I'm looking at getting the Jet 18" bandsaw but I'm concerned that if I try to split a green log 11" in diameter that it will bog down the 1.75 HP motor. Does anyone have experience with a BS motor in this size?

I'm hoping that I can use a chainsaw to cut an 11" diameter log into 11" long chunks, then use the BS to split the chunk into 2 bowl blanks, then make them roundish.

Lee DeRaud
06-28-2006, 10:22 AM
Sure sounds like it oughta work, assuming the right blade. Sawing through green wood like that should be less strain on the motor than resawing dry wood the same thickness.

(Also, you might want to check to see if it works like the Delta saws, where if you wire it for 220V, it actually puts out a bit more power, maybe 1/4HP. More efficient because it runs cooler or something like that.)

Mark Cothren
06-28-2006, 10:23 AM
Hey Tom,

I don't know the answer to your question about how much horsepower. But I would ask why you wouldn't just use the chainsaw to go ahead and split the log into halves and then just round those halves up into round blanks on the bandsaw?

Just curious.

Frank Fusco
06-28-2006, 10:24 AM
I can't speak from experience on wood that size, but the Grizzly G0555 (model I own) with riser is often used to cut up to 12" with it's 1 hp motor. I believe that blade speed and proper blade selection are key to successful cuts that large. I frequently resaw osage orange (really tough stuff) up to 6" thick on mine. No problemo.

Don Baer
06-28-2006, 10:57 AM
I cut through green Eucalyptus, 7" dia with my little sears 12" saw with a 3/4 hp motor.

Tom Jones III
06-28-2006, 11:15 AM
Sounds like it won't be too much of a problem. I'm new to the chainsaw and I just don't like the idea of a smallish chunk of wood sitting end up and trying to chainsaw it without knocking it over. Perhaps I just need to find the right way to brace the log so it is steady. Even then, it just seems much more precise and safe on a bandsaw, especially when working with smaller logs.

I mostly use pecan and mesquite which is really being caught between a rock and a hard place! Two great woods I get for free and they are both really, really hard.

Steven Wilson
06-28-2006, 11:17 AM
Use a Timberwolf AS blade and you should be fine with that saw

Bernie Weishapl
06-28-2006, 11:29 AM
Tom I have the Grizzly G0555 1 hp with the riser block and with a Timberwolf AS 3 tpi blade. I cut thru some 11 1/4" ash and locust with no problem and that stuff is hard. The key is cutting speed and a sharp blade. Also when I lay the log on the side not end up to saw with a chain saw I cut some triangle shaped blocks to hold the wood from rolling. No problems there either.

Gary Max
06-28-2006, 11:59 AM
I have a Laugna HD-16 with a 5 hp motor and if I get in a hurry it will stall.
You will see these folks doing demos at shows--cutting bowl blanks---making it look real easy.
They do not care about trashing saw blades.
After you spend a bunch of money on sawblades I think you will find
useing a chainsaw is by far the best way to go.

Mac Cambra
06-28-2006, 12:14 PM
You may want to consider getting the 3HP version of the same saw. I believe it can be had for on the order of $1400. The model number is JWBS-18X-3, just checked Toolking and they are asking $1357 plus $7.99 shipping.

Ben Rafael
06-28-2006, 1:27 PM
Not a chance that it will get bogged down with the right blade. That's plenty of hp.

Tom Jones III
06-28-2006, 1:49 PM
I was looking at the saw in my local store where I have bought big tools before, they say that the 3 HP option is a waste of money and that 1.75 HP is plenty unless I'm doing serious sawyer work. They have always been trustworthy so I am inclined to believe them, but it is still a judgement call so I thought I would get more opinions.



You may want to consider getting the 3HP version of the same saw. I believe it can be had for on the order of $1400. The model number is JWBS-18X-3, just checked Toolking and they are asking $1357 plus $7.99 shipping.

tod evans
06-28-2006, 1:59 PM
tom, if you can pop for more horsepower without letting the kids go hungry (for too long) then by all means do so! i`ve never heard somebody say "this tool is too powerful for me"......02 tod

Frank Fusco
06-28-2006, 4:34 PM
Sounds like it won't be too much of a problem. I'm new to the chainsaw and I just don't like the idea of a smallish chunk of wood sitting end up and trying to chainsaw it without knocking it over. Perhaps I just need to find the right way to brace the log so it is steady. Even then, it just seems much more precise and safe on a bandsaw, especially when working with smaller logs.

I mostly use pecan and mesquite which is really being caught between a rock and a hard place! Two great woods I get for free and they are both really, really hard.

End grain cutting logs with a chainsaw is problematic for a couple reasons. One, as you said, tippy. Two, the regular chains are not designed for end grain, cross only.

Ian Abraham
06-28-2006, 4:54 PM
Make yourself a little cradle to hold your rounds in place and split them with the chainsaw. If the rounds are laying on their side the chainsaw will rip them in 1/2 easy. You will be ripping with the grain, not across the end grain which is hard work.

Cheers

Ian

Tony Falotico
06-28-2006, 6:24 PM
Tom, I bought the 18" Jet BS about six weeks ago, last night I was resawing 9" hard maple veneers with NO problem.
And that was with the factory blade............

Can't compare it to other BS's because I haven't used any others, but it works great for me............

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36004

Jim Ketron
06-28-2006, 6:34 PM
Tom lay your log on it's side and cut the pith out of it!
Keep your saw full blast so it don't clog up with the long shavings it makes while cutting with the grain. also rocking the bar up and down slowly as you cut helps keep it from getting cloged.
here is a pic of my saw horse with a blank ready to cut.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/Jim_k/Jim%20K%20Turnings/100_2238.jpg

Dennis Peacock
06-28-2006, 8:07 PM
Ian and Jim K have given you a tip for cutting that is the best all around way that I've found in cutting bowl blanks. It's safer, easier on the saw, and easier on the operator. :rolleyes: :D

Curt Fuller
06-29-2006, 9:45 PM
Like a few others have said, use your chainsaw to cut the log in half lengthwise. But that should be plenty of saw to cut the half logs into round bowl blanks.