PDA

View Full Version : The most used tool in the shop???



Paul Erickson
06-25-2006, 10:30 AM
I am in the process of designing my workshop which I intend to build in the next two months. While I have a number of issues worked out, it occurs to me that with all the discussions I have seen about hand tools, benches etc. I don't recall seeing a discussion of the one thing in the shop that the wood worker has more contact with than any other... the floor. While the foundation will be framed 2x8 with 3/4" plywood subfloor supported on 4x6 beams, what if anything should I put on top of the plywood. I will probably put down a layer of foam insulation and then another layer of plywood, but what, if anything comes next? This shop is being build on a budget so cost and durability are primary considerations, Any thoughts will be appreciated.
cheers, Paul

<big></big>

Jeff Horton
06-25-2006, 10:46 AM
We don't insulate here but your may need it in you climate. If so I would just insulate between the joists and not pay for two layers of plywood.

As to your question, other than perhaps paint, the only thing I would put on the floor is fatigue mats at the work stations.

Jim Becker
06-25-2006, 11:03 AM
The plywood alone will give you the "wood feel" and be generally comfortable and I agree with Jeff that a few mats in places that you spend a lot of time at will greatly increase comfort, no matter what the floor is made of. You could consider putting down odd-lot strip flooring...nailed and unfinished...for a relatively low per-sq-ft cost, but other than aesthetics, I'm not sure what it would add other than thickness.

Frank Fusco
06-25-2006, 11:14 AM
Neanderthals use plywood? :eek:

Jim Becker
06-26-2006, 9:12 AM
Neanderthals use plywood?

They use the right tool for the job out of the available tools... ;)

Kenneth George
06-26-2006, 9:27 AM
I can tell you what not to use! I built my shop and did pretty much as you are describing except that I used 2X10 treated for floor joists. Then I added a double layer of ¾” ply the first being treated and the second non treated. Then I got this brilliant idea of putting composite tile down! Got a deal on it and it looked good down! The problem is when sawdust gets on it, it is like ice-skating. So I have had to put those little non slip stickers like you see on stairs everywhere in the shop.

If I were you I think I would just leave the plywood surface as your floor.

Oh and too the title of this thread, “Card Scraper”.

Ken

Larry Rose
06-26-2006, 2:18 PM
Paul, Just go with the plywood and when you spill paint stain glue and blood on it no harm done. Also, I have used my floor for laying out projects and nailing jigs ect. Its not pretty but is functional.

Roger Bell
06-26-2006, 8:04 PM
You might consider substituting 1 1/8" sturdi-floor T and G ply in place of the 3/4" stuff. I did and I am glad I did.

It is designed to bear much heavier loads, if heavy workbenches or stationary machines are in your future. Doesn't cost that much more. It will also hold down on the squeak.

I put down 3/4" thick mats down by the benches....when chisels drop edge first, they "stick" harmlessly into the mat.....provided they miss your foot.

Ben Grunow
06-26-2006, 9:16 PM
I bought some 1/2" foam mats that fit together like puzzle pieces from cosco for less than $10 for 6 I think (2' x 2'). I did my entire shop floor for $80 and my feet, legs and back have never been happier. I don't like having mats here and there b/c I trip when feed ing plywood into the tablesaw or walking while looking at something up close (all the time). I have to take it up every 6 months or so and vacuum under it as dust finds its way under the edges. I can roll my bandsaw mobile base on it but not very well, it comes up and foes down fast. I bought extra for when I wear one out or move a tool or something but that hasn't happened yet. Go cheap, it's going to get wrecked. I start every sentence with "I". IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII.

Ken Werner
06-26-2006, 10:37 PM
When I made my shop floor I bought roughsawn knotty pine boards from a local sawyer. Various widths between 9 and 12 inches, various lengths from 8 to 13 feet. Cost about $.45/sq ft to buy, add on 20 to 30% for waste, and alot of extra work compared with plywood. Planed it, dried it, fitted each board to its neighbors, face nailed it 'ed it, then 3 coats of poly.

The result is a really pretty floor that makes me glad I did it. Alot nicer than plywood.

Good luck with your project and choices.

Ken

Ken Bryant
06-27-2006, 1:01 AM
My floor is concrete, then 2x4 sleepers with insulation in between, then 3/4 t&g plywood, then 1" rough cedar (which was cheap at the time). I personally like the feel of a rough, solid-timber floor under my feet, and it gives a bit more depth to put screws into to hold things (like brackets for boatbuilding strongbacks). Fir would be better (the cedar was cheap).