How to use a nailset properly?

[Louis Brandt]

Hello,
I know that this is a really dumb question, but is there any "professional way" to use a nailset? Is there a way to make sure that the nailset doesn’t slip off the nail and dent the wood? When I try to use a nailset, especially with small 3 and 4 penny finish nails with poorly defined indentations, I always miss about as many as I set. Is proper nailsetting just a case of "do it slowly and carefully" or is there a real technique for achieving correct results?
Louis

[Bob Childress]

Louis,

There are no dumb questions, just dumb answers and here is one maybe.

Many people don't realize that there are many different sizes of nailsets. The first thing is to match the nail set with the size of the nail head. They usually have small indentations on the business end that "grip" the nail head slightly to help keep it on the head. Too small, and it can't get a grip. Too large and the resulting hole in the wood is much larger than the nail head. Buy several sizes and match them up to your work.

As for technique, I was always taught to grip the nailset slightly below center and "tap" it with the hammer a pretty good lick. Then, recheck the nailset on the head of the nail before another hard "tap." It helps you control the position of the nailset and also control the depth at which you set it. Just hammerin' away on it can easily end up with it set too deep and a big hole to fill.

With the advent of pneumatic and battery powered nail guns, the art of nailsetting has been largely forgotten by many woodworkers (including me--I'm now down to setting only the ones that the gun doesn't get below the surface).

Perhaps the pros will have better techniques.

[Tyler Howell]

Eye protection.
Right size tool for the job, quality tool as well.
Set at the same angle the nail was driven.
Good to practice on the same materials as you will be working.I'm finding some miss fires with pneumatics too

[Per Swenson]

With conventional nail and hammer it is all about technique

using all the methods listed above.

That being said I haven't set a nail in ages even if there's always

two nail sets in the bags.

Pins and 18 g brads are problematic as the thin wire will more often bend

then set. I pull them with end cutters... alot.

The type below is the tool I am absolutely sure I have in my pouch

before I pull the trigger.

Per

Note, I don't cut them and leave them, I kinda grab them and roll them out.

[jud dinsmore]

the other posts are great for manually setting nails. i've also heard (and used with limited success) of setting nails with the same pneumatic gun that fired them. slide back the nails (or remove them from the gun), reposition the gun over the nail that needs to be set, and pull the trigger. the driver blade will dry fire and sink the proud nail. i've mainly used this with staples that stand proud connecting the casing to the door jamb/window jambs. the real tricky part is lining up the nailer over the nail.

per's suggestion of carrying an end cutter/nail nipper is great advice. i usually place a thin shim between the cutter blades and the wood when i remove nails to avoid damaging the wood.

[Art Davis]

With conventional nail and hammer it is all about technique

using all the methods listed above.

That being said I haven't set a nail in ages even if there's always

two nail sets in the bags.

Pins and 18 g brads are problematic as the thin wire will more often bend

then set. I pull them with end cutters... alot.

The type below is the tool I am absolutely sure I have in my pouch

before I pull the trigger.

Per

Note, I don't cut them and leave them, I kinda grab them and roll them out.

Per,

How would you use this tool to remove 18 gauge brads from solid redoak? I ask the question because I made a mistake in some redoak trim and had to take it off. Then wanted to remove the brads to renail. They all broke off before they came out. I tried driving them on through. Didn't work. I tried using a puller with a "heel." They broke off. I wound up chucking the piece of trim and fitting a new piece. (Unfortunately, the grain and color was different---but that's another story!)

Art

P.S. Great thread! Has anyone used those nailsets that are spring loaded?

[Jason Roehl]

Those springy nailsets are the cat's meow. The only drawback is that they are hard on your hands if you have to use them for very long. Other than that, they werk much better than the old standard ones.

[Per Swenson]

Two ways to remove nails.

If the nail is exposed by at least 3/16, with the end cutters

you use the the rolled edge of the end cutter as your fulcrum

to gently pull em.

For major disasters plan B. Remove the molding with the other tool

a finish carpenter should not be with out. Shark brand prybar.

If you don't have one I suggest you get one. Why the west didn't

come up with this design is beyond me.

Anyway, remove the molding and pull the nails through the back with

the end cutter. Hope this helps.

Per

[tod evans]

i don`t even try to pull an 18ga from hardwood, rather i grab the exposed part of the nail with side cutters and wiggle it back-n-forth in the direction of the grain. the nail will always break below the surface of the wood....02 tod

[Mike Cutler]

With conventional nail and hammer it is all about technique

using all the methods listed above.

That being said I haven't set a nail in ages even if there's always

two nail sets in the bags.

Pins and 18 g brads are problematic as the thin wire will more often bend

then set. I pull them with end cutters... alot.

The type below is the tool I am absolutely sure I have in my pouch

before I pull the trigger.

Per

Note, I don't cut them and leave them, I kinda grab them and roll them out.

For the sake of definition, and because I use this tool on a continuous basis. There are two tools that look like the picture in Per's post. One is a flush cutter, and one is a clinch.
The jaws on the flush cutter have no bevel on the outside edge of the jaw. It's like two chisels meeting. The clinch has a bevel on both the inside and outside of the jaw. A clinch will cut, easy enough, but it's mostly for pulling.

The pair in that picture look like the Channelock versions. If you need a pair with a little more "butt". A farrier's supply catalog will carry them.

Not meant to criticize or correct, just help someone purchase the most correct tool. They are very similar, nearly identical, in appearance.

Apologies upfront Per.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I really don't think there is a "professional" way to use one. A nail set is a tradesman's tool. Seriously, the last thing anyone would want is a professional messing with their tools. What's a physician lawyer teacher theologian etc., going to do besides make a hash of it? No sir I want a real bona fide tradesman to do these things that, or a serious craftsman.

Well as to proper use.
I never had a nail gun, so my nails are all conventional nails.
Hmmm There are different nail sets. I have the kind with a little cup in the business end and also the kind with the point.
I use 'em both pretty much the same way. Lay it on the nail and whack it with a hammer. I want the nail to be about 1/16 to 1/8 below the surface.

I'll whack the pointy one gently then I hit it hard if the point has bitten into the metal of the nail.

Generally I use the cup type on finishing nails and the pointy ended on everywhere else. I have better succes with the cupped version on finishing nails as I will usually have destroyed the little cup that they stamp in the end of the nail by the time I'm done driving it in.
However sometimes there is no substitute for the "grip" or "bite" that the sharp point gets when it digs in making it easier for me to set - or finish driving a nail.


If the nail was driven at an angle you better match that with the lay of the set or the thing is going to slip off and make a mess, which you'll have to fill.

[Mark Pruitt]

Louis, HERE (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=186380-56005-70079&lpage=none) is a tool that I like to use in place of a nail set. HERE (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&pid=00940743000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Precision+Tools&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes) is another. Both are spring loaded, so you can set the point on the nail head and get a feel for how it will move when struck. That way, you are far more likely to avoid the problem you're describing.

[Per Swenson]

No Apologies needed Mike,

You said "There are two tools that look like the picture in Per's post. One is a flush cutter, and one is a clinch."

Well, mine are so old they started out as flush cutters, Now they are clinch.

Not only that, at one time a summer employee used em to cut a live wire,

so I have a custom notch for 16 and 15 g.

Per

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Mark:
A machinist uses those to make a little start dimple in metal when location by eye was good enough. I never considered them useful as a nail set but I never considered the idea at all. What size nails can you set with those things?

[Mark Pruitt]

Mark:
A machinist uses those to make a little start dimple in metal when location by eye was good enough. I never considered them useful as a nail set but I never considered the idea at all. What size nails can you set with those things?
Cliff, as long as the point will seat firmly upon the nail head it will work. One nice feature is that you can adjust the force by which the point will strike, allowing for shallower or deeper setting of the nail.