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Tom Hamilton
06-21-2006, 10:35 AM
Hi Creekers:

I must have cut this class to go fishing and my search results are zero.

I want to cut some cabriolet legs and have the Lonnie Bird article from FWW as my guide.

The article includes this grid pattern with three sizes of legs.

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How does one take this compressed pattern and enlarge it to full size to make templates?

Do I start with a fresh sheet of one inch grid and sketch carefully trying to approximate the dimenisions?

Will a copier return it to full size from the magazine? I have seen patterns in purchased plans that say enlarge XX% to get to full size but I don't think that will work here.

As usual, helpful tips will be most appreciated.

Thanks, Tom, in Houston, somewhat perplexed. :(

Jim Becker
06-21-2006, 10:47 AM
The grid is your guide. Create one on heavy paper or cardstock with a "full-size" grid. Then plot the points for the shape...and draw in the lines. Once you have one done one, it becomes your master to make all the ones you need to make of paper to attach to the leg stock with spray-glue.

lou sansone
06-21-2006, 12:36 PM
This is what I have found to work best for me. I lay out the leg design on 1/4 mdf ( draw the grid and then connect the dots ). I then carefully cut the mdf to use as a master template. Using my MDF master, I simply trace it out on the sides of the legs that I am making, rather than fuss around with trying to paste together sheets of copy paper. I often save my master by drilling a hole in it and hanging it on a nail some place in my shop.

lou

Jerry Olexa
06-21-2006, 1:23 PM
As Lou and Jim said, I use a similiar method..I make a full size grid (1" squares) and pencil in the crossing points. Then round them (join the dots smoothly). Then I transfer to either 1/4 MDF (or 3/4 if I going to use as a template with the router table). I too save these templates. Its essential the pattern be perfectly smooth if being used as a routing template.

Cecil Arnold
06-21-2006, 1:34 PM
Tom, glad to see you are ready to put that new BS to work.

Peter Dougenik
06-21-2006, 5:10 PM
I admit that I cheat...I upsize it in the office photocopier in sections until I get the proper size, then I tape the sections back together...then I transfer that to some 1/4" MDF or hardboard. those of us with limited drawing skills are sometimes forced to do a little extra work ;)

Helen Gee
06-21-2006, 5:37 PM
One thing I've done with the latest project I'm working on is scan it in if you have a scanner. Then print it X% larger. Like we figured out actual squares per inch (5) on the scaled drawing, so we blew it up 500% printing it. Then just taped the papers together, it was a lot faster than drawing it all out :p

Tom Hamilton
06-21-2006, 6:44 PM
Thanks for the responses. As usual there is more than one way. I like Lou's idea of making the grid on the permanent template.

And Helen, if the copier will comply that is an nice solution.

Thanks!

Tom in Houston, connecting dots and making fair curves.

Alan Turner
06-21-2006, 9:48 PM
Tom,
Here is the way I do it. Create the grid on cheap copy paper. I bought a roll of 36" wide paper, and still have a bunch of it. I do it on paper so I can fiddle with it, and redo it, without any cost concerns. Tweaking is the builder's right.
I then transfer it to 3mm Baltic Birch ply via carbon paper, or with a small multi toothed wheel thing that looks like a shrunken pizza cutter with teeth, and I think is used by dress makers.

The reason that I use 3MM baltic birch instead of 1/4" mdf, or cardstock, is that the BB can be worked with regular WW tools. I cut it on the BS, and shape it with a spokeshave and files. On a curve, just like on a straight board, you can sight it from the end and see any dips or humps. The tools above let you "fair" the curve easily. The 3mm BB is inexpensive, and lasts forever for something like cabriole legs since the only work on the edge is a pencil tracing.
I always save the patterns, often screwed to the prototype of poplar or whatever I have used to mock up for visual testing. I then mark on the pattern the stock needed and any construction notes. Just part of a WW's library.

Tom Hamilton
06-22-2006, 9:50 AM
Alan that is a very cool use of another craft's tools. I think that is a seamstress wheel. Thanks for the idea.

I hope you can get a patent on the idea and collect royalities in the future: I can see in a few years the LN brass and wood version of the of the seamstress wheel, with Hock blades in four degrees of Rockwell hardness, right and left handed of course. :D

Thanks again for taking time to respond to my query. I appreciate it.

Best regards, Tom in Houston, headed off to JoAnne's Fabrics

Cliff Rohrabacher
06-22-2006, 10:46 AM
Ha Been there done that. Every time I tried to use a pattern and enlarge it I failed miserably.
Maybe it's my dyslexia who knows. Anyway what I have done is look at the shape I like think about it and then freehand it a few times. Eventually I get it right. Not right like the picture as it's always a little different.

However, what I think is really happening in my head when I see a shape I like is that the "pattern" to which I was drawn had curves and geometry that are in a relative porportional relation to each other.

Armed with that little bit of info it seem a tad easier to sketch things up.

Then years later I found Cad. Cad destroyed my ability to sketch.

Jim Becker
06-22-2006, 10:47 AM
Best regards, Tom in Houston, headed off to JoAnne's Fabrics

'Careful...you might end up with curtains in your shop... ;)