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View Full Version : Cross-cut sled, a different way to make it.



Nissim Avrahami
06-21-2006, 8:26 AM
Good day

I would like to share with you the method that I’m using to make cross-cut sleds.

Best regards
niki

Nissim Avrahami
06-21-2006, 8:29 AM
Pictures part II

Nissim Avrahami
06-21-2006, 8:35 AM
Pictures part III

Art Davis
06-21-2006, 11:29 AM
Niki,

Great post. I've often been puzzled by exactly how to align the fence/sled to the runners so that they were true. Your description does it.

By the way, have you ever considered the problem of making a sled with a variable kerf slot to accomodate variable width dado stacks?

Thanks for the great post.

Art

P.S. "Supper" is an evening meal---"super" is the proper form for super glue!:D

Dan Cameron
06-21-2006, 12:16 PM
Niki
Good post. I would suggest, however, that a sled using a single runner has technical advantages in addition to being simpler to build. If a two runner sled is constructed with very tight tolerences as to left to right movement, then it is very likely to bind-up as the weather changes. Cast iron and wood do not behave the same with changes in temperature or humidity. In a single runner design there is only 3/4 inch of material to worry about. Using a hard (not spongy) material for the runners, there are only two (not four) surfaces that stop the sled from moving left and right be it a one or two runner design.

If you have a fairly wide one runner sled, you can use one miter slot for Z.C.
cuts and use the other miter slot for dados and/or bevel cuts.

Dan

Nissim Avrahami
06-21-2006, 12:38 PM
Thank you

Art Davis
Thanks for the correction, that’s why I put the CA bottle it the picture, English is not an easy language and the "Word" does not correct me in such a case.
I live in Europe and dado blades are forbidden here, the arbor is made short so it will not accommodate dado stack (EU law).

Dan Cameron
You are correct, I have only one miter slot (and very narrow) and I have problems between summer and winter, I’m using runners on both sides of the table so I can shim and compensate for the changes.

Thanks again
niki

Julio Navarro
06-21-2006, 1:51 PM
P.S. "Supper" is an evening meal---"super" is the proper form for super glue!:D

My wife has often made "supper" glue:D Bless her heart

Nissim Avrahami
06-21-2006, 3:45 PM
OK guys
You wait till I catch you in Poland trying to speak in Polish...
Just joking, my Polish is bedder (superlative of bad) than English.

Best regards
niki

Howard Rosenberg
06-21-2006, 3:50 PM
Todah.

Spasibo.

Your posts are always inspiring.

Considering you already speak at least THREE languages, you can spell WHATEVER you want whatever WAY you want!

L'heet.
Howard Rosenberg

Roy Hess
06-21-2006, 7:16 PM
I found your post to be very interesting. I just built a sled myself, and your suggestion on aligning the runners was excellent, would have saved me a lot of grief.

BTW - can you quantify the action " Belly pressure " ???:rolleyes:

Ted Jay
06-21-2006, 7:48 PM
...
I live in Europe and dado blades are forbidden here, the arbor is made short so it will not accommodate dado stack (EU law).
...
niki

Really???? Why are they forbidden?

Norman Hitt
06-21-2006, 7:52 PM
Niki
Good post. I would suggest, however, that a sled using a single runner has technical advantages in addition to being simpler to build. If a two runner sled is constructed with very tight tolerences as to left to right movement, then it is very likely to bind-up as the weather changes. Cast iron and wood do not behave the same with changes in temperature or humidity. In a single runner design there is only 3/4 inch of material to worry about. Using a hard (not spongy) material for the runners, there are only two (not four) surfaces that stop the sled from moving left and right be it a one or two runner design.

If you have a fairly wide one runner sled, you can use one miter slot for Z.C.
cuts and use the other miter slot for dados and/or bevel cuts.

Dan

Dan, although I use a two runner sled, I don't have the "Swelling" problem you are referring to, because......when I made the sled, I used two normal fitting runners, (quite snug, actually), and then when it was finished, I used a scraper and took a little off the outside edge, (side away from the blade) of each runner. This kept the inside edges snug, yet allows any swelling to be irrelevant, and has worked very well for a couple of years now. (I know, it's different from what others do on two runner sleds, but that's just how my weird mind works).:rolleyes: :D

Art Davis
06-21-2006, 8:37 PM
Niki,

First, please don't think I was being mean with my comment about "supper." Just struck me as funny, and I thought you might want to know about the "double pe's" since a lot of your posts refer to super glue. I am, in fact, humbled by your great command of English. Can't say I know a word of Polish. If I knew how, I'd say, "I'd love to buy you a beer or two in appreciation of your wonderful threads and tutorials." But I've also learned a thing or two from the comments your posting initiated, as well.

Thanks again---and keep up the great work. (You are a couple of years younger than I, so I really should know more than you. Right? Unfortunately, I am a newcomer at the woodworking game and am only beginning to learn how to do things with my hands. And, being at that stage, I've found your instructional posts to be right on target.)

Best,

Art

jonathan snyder
06-22-2006, 1:18 AM
Niki,

You sure are a smart feller.
Just a thought on the runners. I use ultra high molecular weight plastic (UHMW) for runners. It only costs a couple of bucks at a plastics store and is super stable. It cuts easily with a table saw and works nicely with a hand plane so you get a tight fit in your miter slots. If you plane it down too narrow and get a sloppy fit, just tighten a couple of the countersunk screws an extra turn or two and it will push the sides of the runners out and tighten right up!

Keep posting your inventions!

Thanks
Jonathan

Nissim Avrahami
06-22-2006, 2:23 AM
Thank you all for the kind replies

Howard
Bevakashah, I’m not bad also it Spanish, Bulgarian and Japanese, Totah Rabah.

Roy
I can not write exactly what I mean, forum rules, you know. Thanks.

Ted
The dado blade cannot be covered by the guard and they are concerned about schools and industry.

Norman
You are absolutely correct with your approach, the runners should be snug only at the sides close to the blade.

Art
On the contrary, I’m very happy that you corrected me, at least from now on I’ll know. Thanks again.

Jonathan
The UHMW sure will eliminate the binding problems and it also glues very good with Super glue.

Everybody
The most important point of the sled is the so called “vertical board” shimming (2nd picture), once you adjust it square with the miter slots, you can keep it as a reference to make other sleds in minutes.

Thanks again
niki

Bart Leetch
06-22-2006, 10:56 AM
Nissim I enjoy your posts. I realize living where you do you don't always have access to the products or equipment we do here in the US. I am sure that due to this situation you are sometimes forced to figure out methods or jigs to be able to accomplish the same thing that we would do with something we can just purchase. I salute you for your skill & efforts & informative posts here at Saw Mill Creek.

This tutorial has been belly belly interesting I'll bet that supper glue really sticks to your ribs.:D :eek: :D

Dan Cameron
06-22-2006, 12:36 PM
There have been more posts referring to runners (plural). What is it that you are trying to achieve with two runners that one won't do?

Dan

Nissim Avrahami
06-22-2006, 1:03 PM
Burt Leetch

Thank you so much.
You are so correct about availability here in Poland, but it’s also interesting and challenging to overcome some problems.

Dan Cameron
If you look closely at my table saw, I have only one narrow (3/8”) miter slot on the left side off the blade and I’m almost not using it because I have a sliding table.
I just made the post and the pictures for the guys that have 2 “normal” miter slots and want to use them both.
Diplomatically, I will not say my opinion, which one is better, but leave it to more professional guys.

niki

Wayne Jolly
03-25-2016, 2:10 PM
I use a piece of 3/4 x 3/8 Aluminum flat bar for runners. A few years ago I bought a 10 foot piece from my (almost) local metal supplier, and if I remember correctly I paid something like $12 for it.

I am also multi-lingual, but I only speak two languages. 'merican and British. (or would that be Bri'ish??) :-)


Wayne

Al Launier
03-25-2016, 3:06 PM
Thanks for an interesting post. I use two languages: English & Swearing! :D

A couple thoughts on crosscut sleds:


I started off using only one runner thinking it would be easier & just as accurate. It evolved to two runners only because I feel more comfortable with two..
Then shaved I ~ 1/64, or less off each side, but the same amount for each piece (verified with my dial calipers) on the router intentionally producing some slop. I use this to pull the workpiece away from the blade on the return because I don't want the workpiece to drag on the blade in cas i get sloppy & allow the workpiece to move after the cut. So far this had worked well & I haven't lost any accuracy. However, I must make sure to push the sled against the miter slot when cutting.
Also, when making the sled I use the 5-cut method to ensure perpendicularity, as I don't trust a framing square for precision.
Finally, I apply paste wax to each runner to smoothen the ride


Good thread!

Rick Potter
03-25-2016, 3:20 PM
Thanks for reviving this thread. I really miss Nissim's thoughtful posts, and his ability to cut to the core of the problem. I understand he was an engineer, which explains some of his ingenious ideas.

Myk Rian
03-25-2016, 9:58 PM
His Wife really appreciated all the e-mails she got praising him.