Oneway Talon Chuck Q

[Roger Bell]

I have a new Oneway Talon. When clamping down on a turned tenon on a bowl bottom, I find that the jaws leave marks in the tenon. I don't believe I am overtightening.

Is it safe to wrap something like inner tube around the tenon-foot to avoid the marking?

Any other suggestions as to how to avoid the foot/tenon damage when using the chuck in this application?

[Mark Pruitt]

Can't be of help as far as avoiding the jaw marks, but I have seen turners actually highlight the jaw marks as an "accent."

One thing you might consider is turning an inside lip in the bowl's base, and setting the jaws inside the lip and tightening outward.

I'll be interested to see what others say.

[Jim Ketron]

yes they will leave marks! that helps hold the turning in the jaws.
If you are wanting to use the tenon as a foot just make the tenon a little larger than you want the finished foot to be and then you can turn the marks away when you reverse the bowl for finishing.
Or make the bottom have a step one for the foot and a smaller step for the tenon.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what Jim said. I make my foot about a 1/4" larger and when I turn the bowl around to finish the bottom I just turn off the marks.

[Tom Hintz]

though I use a Talon now, I used another type of chuck before that had smooth jaws, supposedly to eliminate this problem. Unfortunately, if you clamped down hard enough to hold the tenon with any security, the smooth jaws left an impression also. (So much for the tape plan, whcih by the way I would not consider safe anyway)
As suggested, using an internal recess rather than a tenon is one way to cure this. Making a tenon oversize works but is limited by the capacity of your jaws. I finally got a set of Jumbo Jaws for the Talon so I can turn the bowl around to turn the tenon or recess for better appearance and more options on that part of the bowl. Adding those jaws to my collection really solved a bunch of design and turning problems at the bottom of my bowls.
If you are unfamiliar with Jumbo Jaws (Some call the Cole Jaws), see the link below for photos of them in use.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/onwyjumbjwsrvu.html

[Cody Colston]

I have the Talon and most of the time I use a stepped tenon like Jim suggested. The jaws grip the outermost part which gets turned away after reversing, leaving the foot.

[Ernie Nyvall]

As suggested, using an internal recess rather than a tenon is one way to cure this. Making a tenon oversize works but is limited by the capacity of your jaws. I finally got a set of Jumbo Jaws for the Talon so I can turn the bowl around to turn the tenon or recess for better appearance and more options on that part of the bowl. Adding those jaws to my collection really solved a bunch of design and turning problems at the bottom of my bowls.
If you are unfamiliar with Jumbo Jaws (Some call the Cole Jaws), see the link below for photos of them in use.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/onwyjumbjwsrvu.html

Roger, where the jumbo jaws certainly help in the finishing of the bottom, they don't eliminate the problem you are having. I mean you would still need to use a recess , a step tenon, or leave the tenon oversized to cut the marks off if you want to leave a smooth foot. Then, reverse turned on a jam chuck eliminates the marks. The jumbo jaws will make the reverse turning easier though as Tom has mentioned.

Ernie

[Jim Becker]

The solution is to "step" your tenon so you have proper support while turning the piece and then reverse the piece and trim off the working tenon to finish off your foot. You really can't just extend a straight tenon longer as you need something for the TOP of the jaws to seat against for proper support...a shoulder is essential and the tenon should never bottom out in the chuck, either. Your working tenon really shouldn't be anticipated to be used "as is" as a final feature of your work.

[Andy Hoyt]

My club spent an evening last month on bowl bottoms.

Perhaps these pics and the newsletter article (written by yours truly) could be helpful.

http://www.mainewoodturners.org/html/may_2006.html

[Curt Fuller]

What everyone else said. But I do keep some sections of bicycle inner tube that I use when gripping a tenon or expanding into a recess, but only when I'm doing some very light touch up work or finishing. You might be able to see the inner tube in the picture between the spigot jaws and the wooden spoon. The rubber padding greatly reduces the holding ability.

[Curt Fuller]

My club spent an evening last month on bowl bottoms.

Perhaps these pics and the newsletter article (written by yours truly) could be helpful.

http://www.mainewoodturners.org/html/may_2006.html

You sure do a nice job on your club website!

[Roger Bell]

Thx guys..................