Howard Rosenberg
09-12-2003, 12:52 PM
Pic 1 - This is Michael.
Pic 2 - This is Michael's bookcase.
Pic 3 - As always, MDF!
I routed 1/4"-deep grooves and dadoes (are they still dadoes if MDF doesn't have any grain?) and rabbets to square up the back. Just joints and glue - no fasteners anywhere.
The gables are frame and panel construction - 3/4" for the frames, 1/2" for the panels. I routed chamfers on the inner edges of the rails and stiles and stopped just short of where the stiles would meet the rails. I then finished those portions off with chisels.
The finish is three coats of Soldier Blue Milk Paint, two coats of Lee Valley-brand Danish Oil and two coats of wax. Obviously MDF doesn't absorb oil or wax but they do combine to give Milk Paint a great sheen that suggests the patina of age.
Pic 4 - My standard edge treatment for a 3/4" top - chamfer on top and ogee on the bottom.
The edges are sanded back and painted with artist's oils to make the MDF look like like old pine. This provided a great opprtunity to beat up the edge of the face frame - when I was routing the stopped chamfer I didn't stop in time.
As you can see, I still need a lot more experience "aging" things with a tiny paint brush
Pic 5 - Continued the frame's stiles to form legs on the gable. I routed locking-mitre joints on both the stile/legs and face frames. This formed the front of the legs and face frames.
So, if anyone asks - yes, a locking mitre joint WILL work on MDF and can be used in interesting unorthodox methods.
Many thanks to Andrew at Lee Valley Toronto West who answered all my questions with his usual patience and never threatened to throw me out!
Thanks for looking.
Howard
Pic 2 - This is Michael's bookcase.
Pic 3 - As always, MDF!
I routed 1/4"-deep grooves and dadoes (are they still dadoes if MDF doesn't have any grain?) and rabbets to square up the back. Just joints and glue - no fasteners anywhere.
The gables are frame and panel construction - 3/4" for the frames, 1/2" for the panels. I routed chamfers on the inner edges of the rails and stiles and stopped just short of where the stiles would meet the rails. I then finished those portions off with chisels.
The finish is three coats of Soldier Blue Milk Paint, two coats of Lee Valley-brand Danish Oil and two coats of wax. Obviously MDF doesn't absorb oil or wax but they do combine to give Milk Paint a great sheen that suggests the patina of age.
Pic 4 - My standard edge treatment for a 3/4" top - chamfer on top and ogee on the bottom.
The edges are sanded back and painted with artist's oils to make the MDF look like like old pine. This provided a great opprtunity to beat up the edge of the face frame - when I was routing the stopped chamfer I didn't stop in time.
As you can see, I still need a lot more experience "aging" things with a tiny paint brush
Pic 5 - Continued the frame's stiles to form legs on the gable. I routed locking-mitre joints on both the stile/legs and face frames. This formed the front of the legs and face frames.
So, if anyone asks - yes, a locking mitre joint WILL work on MDF and can be used in interesting unorthodox methods.
Many thanks to Andrew at Lee Valley Toronto West who answered all my questions with his usual patience and never threatened to throw me out!
Thanks for looking.
Howard