How preserve rest of gallon of varnish??

[Jerry Olexa]

Simple question (from a simple person:) ): Getting ready to topcoat a small end table with P&L #38. Its a fresh, new unopened gallon. Normally, I try to buy small sizes but couldn't in this case. Frankly, this varnish was hard to find here in Chicago. I'll probably use a pint at most. How do I insure that I don't waste the rest of that gallon once its opened. I've heard of the wax paper insert and aerosol sprays that disperse the air. What works best??

[Carl Eyman]

I have not myself but have worked with a guy who always had some argon around. He would spray a little of that in the empty space above the liquid and his left overs were alway fresh and read for use.

[Howard Acheson]

First, as soon as you open the can it will be exposed to oxygen. It's the oxygen that starts the oxidation or curing process. Therefore, only open it long enough to pour out what you need. Immediately reseal the container. If you have a propane touch, squirt in a short shot of propane and immediately seal. Propane is heavier than air and it will sink onto the surface displacing oxygen.

I don't recommend pouring it into smaller containers as the act of pouring will expose it to lots of oxygen.

[David Eisenhauer]

I've heard of folks adding marbles to the remainder of the can to raise the finish level until it eliminates the dead air space in the can. Also have read of several good experiences in using Bloxygen as already suggested. Sucks to lose a cn doesn't it. Maybe pour it off the leftover into (3)smaller quart cans, plus whatever is leftover in a fourth can? I've done that in the past when I needed just over a half gallon. Best of luck.

[John Miliunas]

Jerry, I use marbles in my shop. (There is now a little less "rattle" when I shake my head!:D ) I've found that to be quite effective. I also mark the container that it's a can w/marbles so that, when I'm getting ready to do a project and check on what my supply is, I know to check exactly how much is in there and not think that, because it's heavy, I have a "full" container. :) :cool:

[Jerry Olexa]

Jerry, I use marbles in my shop. (There is now a little less "rattle" when I shake my head!:D ) I've found that to be quite effective. I also mark the container that it's a can w/marbles so that, when I'm getting ready to do a project and check on what my supply is, I know to check exactly how much is in there and not think that, because it's heavy, I have a "full" container. :) :cool:

Thanks John...Good tip. May have trouble though since my wife says I've lost my marbles:D :) Guess I'll have to go buy some...(marbles that is...):D

[John Miliunas]

Thanks John...Good tip. May have trouble though since my wife says I've lost my marbles:D :)

LOL! Yeah, that's what Jill tells me, too. Then again, she also says I have my head up m.... Well, you know. :eek: I sure do wish she'd make up her mind!!! :D :cool:

[Jerry Olexa]

LOL! Yeah, that's what Jill tells me, too. Then again, she also says I have my head up m.... Well, you know. :eek: I sure do wish she'd make up her mind!!! :D :cool:

Yeah mine gets stuck up there too....esp now without the marbles:D :)

[Jamie Buxton]

One help is to make sure the lid reseals properly. If you get varnish in the groove at the top of the can, clean it out before you put the lid back on. If the liquid stays there, the lid can't seal properly. A check is to look at the lid after you've closed it. If it is flush with the can around it, just like a fresh can, it is sealing. If it is proud, it is because fluid won't let it close.

[Frank Hagan]

I had a pint of McCloskey's Spar Varnish I was using on my boat, and it lasted all the way through several uses without ever drying up. It had a gasket like thing on the bottom of the groove, so it was easy to close up.

The propane works OK too, but I've less than 100% success with it. You allow some to float on top of the varnish (don't light it! don't light it!). Its heavier than air and is supposed to displace the air like Bloxygen does. I haven't tried Bloxygen yet.

For smaller cans, I store them upside down, which seems to help for about half the can.

[Jerry Olexa]

Thanks guys. All good tips...Also remember I read somewhere where inserting a wax paper liner (cut to round shape) preserves the varnish after opening.?! Oh well..Does that make sense or would the waxpaper contaminate the varnish?

[Frank Hagan]

I've heard the wax paper trick before, but I've always been worried about the "wax". I've also heard of people using plastic wrap and discs cut from heavier plastic sheeting like Visqueen. No direct experience with it though.

Maybe the best thing is to keep coating the piece until all the varnish is used up!

[Mark Pruitt]

Suppose Jerry (or anyone) were to use the varnish he needs and simply put the lid back on the can. How long could the can sit on the shelf before it is "too far gone" to be used on another project? I've always wondered about this and haven't found any real guidelines. I've also used varnish out of a previously opened can and haven't had any issues with improper adhesion.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

One more little tip to keep the valley where the lid fits clear is to take a nail and punch several holes in the bottom of the valley. It will let the paint/varnish to drip back into the can.

Bruce

[Howard Acheson]

>> How long could the can sit on the shelf before it is "too far gone" to be used on another project?

Mark, It would be nice if there was a clean and specific answer to the question. The test of an oil based or waterbased finish is whether it cures properly. Cures is different from dry. Dry is when the thinner/solvents evaporate and the finish is no longer tacky. However, curing is an oxidation process that takes much longer and it is the curing that determines adhesion and protective qualities.

Many things go into the equation. Amount of oxygen aborbed by the finish when it is open or contained in air on top of the finish in a closed can. Temperature is another factor. And finally, the chemicals and the amount of each chemical in the mix. Each finish is different. Waterlox, for example has a short shelf life and I discard excess in three months.

So what to do? What I do, and I learned this from a couple of professional finishers, is to date the day I open the can. If it's not used within 4-6 months, I discard it. After all, finish is one of the least cost components of the project. After the wood and my labor, I certainly don't want to have the finish fail. It's not a place to be frugal. The finish is what gets the "ohhs and ahhs", not the jointery.