MM16 To The Basement?

[Jeff Murphy]

Just got my new MM16 http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowyes.gif and now I need to move it downstairs http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/raised.gif. I only have 7' ceilings and do not have Bilco doors. Anyways, any tips on getting this beautiful machine downstairs? Will it tip up okay without hitting the joists? Of course, I have the table off and I am not sure if I should take the motor off(would rather not, if possible). It is still on the pallet under the carport and do not have the mobility kit on it yet and it looks like I will have to put that on to wheel it thru the garage and to the basement access door. Could 3 guys handle this safely? Being a brand new unit, I want to be sure before hand and do not want to get it half-way down the steps and find out it wouldn't work http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowdead.gif.

[Doug Shepard]

I have doubts as to whether you can stand it up without hitting - at least rotating it up pivoting from the back. It might work pivoting from the side though. I know it wouldn't fit through my 7' garage door opening on the shipping pallets. I would think the pallet heights would be roughly the same as the additional space you'd need to tip it up. I'd put a board up against the saw and cut if off even with the top. Then screw another piece to it at 90 degs that represents the width. Than take it downstairs and see if it will hit when you rotate it up.

[Rob Russell]

Jeff,

Even with the table off, that machine has to be 400+ pounds. You don't want to try to handle that with 3 guys, unless you're just controlling a slide down stairs. When I moved my bandsaw down my hatchway, I slid it down the stairs. I put plywood on the face of the saw so I could slide the saw down without damaging it and screwed a pair of 2x6's flat to the stairs. That way the weight was spread across more steps.

You should be able to tip the saw if you lay it down on a face (rather than the spine). You can check that by measuring the diagonal from corner to corner - that's the amount of clearance you need.

Rob

[Jim O'Dell]

Jeff, if I were closer, I could cure this problem for you. I'd trade you for my E16. I know it woud be easier to move downstairs, and would fit the height limitations. :rolleyes: :D :D
Congrats on the new saw. I don't have any constructive help for you. Hopefully your shot down the stairs is a straight one. Do you have covering on the ceiling? or is it open joists? If open, I'd bet you could manuver the saw where you wanted it on it's spine, then tip it up between the joists. If you have the ceiling finished, then you may need to cut out a section, then patch it back in. At least if Rob's idea of tipping it on it's face doesn't work. A little bit of a hassle, but something tells me it will be well worth it.
Oh one idea. I'd get the saw set up and running before I took it downstairs. If there is a major problem, which I doubt, it would be much easier to deal with it up top. Jim.

[Steven Evans]

I would find a way to lean it on its back and slide it down. I thing the wheels on the back would let it roll while on the back. maybe you could use two sheets of 3/4 ply and leap frog them. It would depend on how steep the stairs. But you may be able to stop it with the friction. You might want to consider a furniture dolly under the top portion and control the descent with a rope wrapped around a stationary object. I have managed to pick up and unload a MM20 and a 410 combo machine by myself. Not easy tasks but with some creative though and mechanical advantage you can do it. PS that is without a pallet jack, fork lift etcc.... Just spare wood, prybars(4ft), and mobility kits on the machines.

[tod evans]

jeff, use a come-along or block-n-tackle to slow the decent down the stairs. as for 3 guys, if they`re stout guys you should be fine. as doug suggested mock up the height before getting it in a bind. good luck! tod

[John Shuk]

I moved a Laguna lt16 into the basement with one other guy. Put it on a hand truck strap it on good and it really isn't too big a deal at all. Of course I put the motor on once downstairs. Reall not too bad. The shape of a bandsaw lends itself well to being moved easily.

[Byron Trantham]

Jeff, removing the motor will reduce the weight significantly. Its not a big deal. When I moved my unisaw to the basement, I removed the motor. I removed the front of the switch and drew a picture of all the terminals and the color of the wires attached to them. Then I identified the three wires coming from the motor. I removed these three wires and pulled them back into the cabinet. That motor was suspended by a long bolt and a tensioner adjusting bolt. I removed them both (and the belts of course) and man that motor was heavy. I don't know what it weighs but it helped a lot removing it. Now the bulk of the weight was the cast iron table top. Good luck with the move.

[Jim Becker]

Jeff, removing the motor on that machine is much more involved than with a table saw and I don't recommend it. I assisted Robert Tarr in moving his MM16 to the basement of his previous residence. It went down the stairs on it's spine with two folks below and one above. The come-along that Tod mentions is an added safety consideration if you have a way to facilitate its use.

[Brad Way]

I was faced with the same problem in Jan. when I received my new MM16. I took the table and motor off which helped reduce the weight. From there I strapped the saw to a two wheel dolly and was able to get it to the basement by myself. It would have been a little easier with two people but it wasn't too bad. Good luck!

[Jim DeLaney]

After you make sure you can stand the BS up down there, you might want to borrow/rent an appliance dolly. I'ts like a regular dolly, except it has rollers on the back of ti that are intended for use on stairs. You can lay the dolly back flat against the stairs and the rollers act sorta like caterpiller treads to ease it - nearly bump free - down the stairs.

U-Haul rents them, as do most others.

[fred woltersdorf]

jeff, i have a 3yr old mm16 that is 70-1/2" tall.my basement ceiling is 78" tall.i didn't have any problems getting the saw upright once in the basement.i slid the saw down the stairs on 2- 2x 6's with the help of two younger guy's.i have the mm mobility kit and i don't like it.on my list of things to buy is a delta mobile base.

[Dan Forman]

Jeff---I have the same saw and the same basement ceiling joist height. I have an additional 9" of height between the joists. Is your ceiling solid, or do you have space between the joints too? The reason I ask, is that I can't remember if I needed the extra space to tip the saw upright after bringing it down the stairs. If you do have space between the joists, just bring the saw parallel to the joists, and tip it up between them. Once upright, there is plenty of clearance.

I had two strong helpers, and we used an appliance dolly. I decided to buy one, as I knew I would have further use for it, and have not regretted that decision, as it has frequently come in handy. As someone else mentioned, you could also rent one. Personally, I would not want to use a standard handtruck. The appliance dolly has belts near the wheels which act as friction brakes as it negotiates the stairs, which is a big help in controlling the descent.

I don't think you would want to slide something this heavy down the stairs on a plank or piece of plywood unless you had a winch or something similar. I would think it would be very difficult to control.

Will you need the saw to be mobile once in place? If so, you might want to consider a more traditional style of mobile base. I found that with my uneven basement floor, there are areas where the saw will get high centered, in other words stuck. The other issue is that the wheels get in the way of the bottom door opening fully when doing blade changes, which is quite annoying. I just took my wheels off, as I have a permanent place for it.

Dan

[Jeff Murphy]

Thanks to all who replied! I have been super busy remodeling a house and have not had time to move it downstairs yet. Looks like a mobile base is in order, as I haven't heard too much praise for the mobility kit, but I will have to use it to wheel it thru the garage to get in the house/basement door. What is the safest way to get it off the 2 pallets to ground level, so I can put on the wheels? Just trying to be cautious and I would be sick if I tipped over a $2500 machine!:( Hopefully, sometime during the week I can get it up and cutting! Lots of 8/4 figured maple is waiting:cool: .

[Dan Forman]

Jeff---If I remember correctly, it wasn't too hard to get it off the pallet, just tip a little and pivot, do it in small steps. When one end is on the ground, someone pulls the pallet out of the way. You will want a couple of helpers. At that point, I would just strap it to an appliance dolly and roll it from there, much easier than using the saw's mobile base, which is not bad for a straight shot across a flat surface, but can be a problem with uneven terrain and sharp turns.

Dan