Turning Problem

[Ed Breen]

:D Howdy All,
I've only done pens 'till now, but yesterday I tried a 5x5x4 block of spalted blood wood. I first tried using the screw from my technatool but it just bounced the block around the shop. I then tried gluing with gorilla which came loose. Several things in retrospect, the wood is wet so should I have cut a rough circular form on my band saw before I started? Should I have screwed the block instead of gluing? I was turning at the slowest, should I have used more speed. I have a delta 1442.
Thanks for any help. I shall keep trying to turn a bowl.
Ed Breen, back from Limbo!!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ed I use a faceplate on the bowl side that will be hollowed out and then bring up the tailstock. Once I get it shaped pretty much outside and the tenon cut I turn it around, chuck it up and hollow out the bowl. I found the faceplate works best for me with the tailstock up against the back. Haven't lost one yet. If you do use a faceplate do not use sheet rock screws. Use steel screws. I use 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" steel screws from the hardware store. I do also cut them somewhat round on the bandsaw before mounting. At least cut the corners off and rounded. The bigger blanks I have a circle cut out of cardboard that I trace a circle on the blank and cut them round. Hope this helps.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Ed.........I have a Super Nova 2 on a Jet VS Mini. I had the same experience using the "screw" that came with it. Like Bernie....I just screw the blanks to a faceplate and haven't had a problem since. Make sure you use quality screws!

[Jim Ketron]

With the woodworm screw drill a small starter hole and use the tailstock untill you form your tenon. Then chuck it up with the new tenon you just made and turn away.
Always use your tailstock any time you can while turning!

[Ed Breen]

Thanks guys,
i'm gonna go home tonight and knock off the glue-up and screw the block to the faceplate. Can't figure out why I did what I did, The screw holes will be gone once I reverse the bowl.
Ed:rolleyes:

[Barbara Gill]

I just cut the circle on the bandsaw and then mount between centers to shape the bottom and the tenon. Large pieces (14" and larger) are roughed out with the chainsaw and screwed to a faceplate.

[Jim Becker]

First rule of thumb...do not use valuable wood for the first (few) times you turn a new type of object... ;)

[Jim King]

Ed: You have a beautiful peice of wood for your first try. It can be stunning.

[Reed Gray]

Rounding the block off with the bandsaw, or knocking off the corners on a table saw (45 degrees) will help. You can use a forstner bit to cut a recess/mortice on the top of the blank, and expand your chuck into it to turn the bottom, then leave a tenon or another recess to remount the blank to turn the inside. This way you never have to remove the chuck, or change back and forth between the chuck and face plate. I do use a compas or dividers to scribe a circle to tell how much rounding off I need to do, and it also marks the center for you. Turn as fast as you feel comfortable with. The longer I turn, the higher the speed seems to go, at least if the lathe isn't trying to walk around the shop.