How to attach dividers in fastener cabinet

[Harvey Chute]

Inspired by a recent post related to fastener storage, I'm attempting to design a storage cabinet that will essentially be a grid of cubby-holes. Each cubby-hole will hold a small (3"H x 3 1/2"W x 6"Deep) box into which I will meticulously store and organize my fastener hardware (well, that's the master plan anyway).

I plan to use 1/2" plywood, and envision each shelf being dado'd into the sides. The graphic shows the overall dimensions.

I'm uncertain though the best way to attach the many dividers that will go in between the shelves. The dividers will be 1/2" plywood.

Should I fit them into very shallow (1/8"?) dado's (i.e. shallow given that there are dividers both above and below each shelf)?

Or strictly glue???

I suppose I could use glue-blocks to support them but I wouldn't want the blocks to get in the way of the fastener boxes that will slide in and out of each cubby-hole.

Thanks for any guidance you can give me.

39921

[Jerry Strojny]

IMHO there is not a large amount of "beefy strength" needed for the cubbies. Just putting a 1/4" back on it will really "beef" it up. If I were doing it, I would just use glue and brad nails.

[tod evans]

harvey, my advice is to purchase ready made metal parts bins. by the time you get done messing with all those little pieces get it painted and put to use you`ll have darn near as much money tied up as a commercially available unit plus all the time.

if you`re dead set on making your own do half laps...02 tod

[Rob Bodenschatz]

I would back it with 1/4" plywood like Jerry said. Then do shallow dados for your vertical dividers. Don't glue them in. The dados will hold them in place and you can remove them for larger boxes if you wish.

[Dave Falkenstein]

First, I think 1/4 inch material is plenty for the dividers - I would use hardboard. Cut a slot in every divider, wherever it meets another divider. The slots should be cut half way through, from front to back (or back to front) and the width of the divider material. Assemble the dividers by sliding the parts together. You can install all of the vertical dividers first, dadoed into the top and bottom. Then slide the horizontal dividers into place, also dadoed into the sides.

[Don Baer]

Dave beat me to it. That would have been my suggestion also. Funney how great minds think alike..:D

[Dan Oelke]

I'd third that suggestion. Go for just hardboard between - even the 1/8" material for the dividers. However, with the thinner dividers you might want to put a solid 1/2" piece in the middle to help support the horizontals. Those fastners can get quite heavy.

Rather than my above suggestion of a thicker verictal in the center - if you put something like a 1/2" thick back on it and are liberal with the glue and screws from that into the shelves then the back will provide all the support for the horizontals that you need.

[Harvey Chute]

Those posts are most helpful. I think I'll go with the slotted 1/4" hardboard for horizontal and vertical dividers, dadoed into a 1/2" plywood carcase with 1/4" hardboard backing.
I may even expand it to go 10 x 7 on the cubbyholes - with a 1/2" vertical upright in the middle for support if needed. 70 boxes for fasteners / miscellaneous items ought to last me the rest of my woodworking career.
Thanks all.