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View Full Version : Machinery Restoration/Refinish Advice? (Project Complete)



Jim Becker
06-02-2006, 10:20 AM
I recently purchased a used back blade (old Woods RB5) for the Kubota for a "very good price"...it will come in handy for a variety of things around our property. However, the previous owner didn't "lovingly" care for it, IMHO, and it needs some restoration work and refinishing to insure an even longer life in my attachment collection. This is how currently looks...

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I have nearly zero experience with this type of metal restoration and refinishing and will appreciate any advice from any SMC car/tractor jockies for the best ways to remove rust, prepare for refinishing, etc. I want to do it right the first time, if you know what I mean. And yes, I do need to remove several layers of "hastily applied by hand" paint, too, before priming and refinishing. Suggestions for primer, etc, will also be appreciated. Remember, this is ground-engaging equipment and although it's expected to get a little banged up over time, it still needs to be protected from the elements, etc.

Thanks in advance!

tod evans
06-02-2006, 10:25 AM
jim, sandblasting is going to be the easiest way to remove the paint-n-rust. if that`s not an option get some aircraft stripper and slather it on. if you opt for the stripper don`t get it on you it`ll light you up! .02 tod

JayStPeter
06-02-2006, 11:18 AM
HF sells a pretty nice little sandblaster for occasional use. I think it was right around $100.

Jay

tod evans
06-02-2006, 12:27 PM
HF sells a pretty nice little sandblaster for occasional use. I think it was right around $100.

Jay

i`ve got one of those, aircraft stripper is much faster and cheaper...02 tod

Bruce Page
06-02-2006, 12:31 PM
Jim, sandblasting or chemical strippers will get the old paint off but you’ll still need to grind/file the heavy rust spots smooth. A 4” right angle grinder will do a good job on the rust.
If you got it for “a very good price”, it might be worthwhile to have it powder coated. Powder coating is extremely durable, weather resistant, and gets into all of the nooks & crannies. Look in your Yellow Pages and get a few quotes.

Don Baer
06-02-2006, 12:41 PM
If you can sand blast if not then Aircraft stripper like todd said. If you need to remove the rust then I'd use Navel Jelley on the rust. I'd probubly use auto paint primer, the grey stuff then a good coat or two of Rustolium.

tod evans
06-02-2006, 1:23 PM
guess i should have specified earlier about sandblasting.........take it to an industrial blasting firm an object of this size if you`re in no hurry should be less than 100 bucks and an industrial blaster will remove all the rust(and some of the metal if they`re not carefull) as well as the paint. most places that do blasting offer to squirt it with red oxide primer for a couple of bucks, take them up on the offer it`s unlikely that you`re going to buy the grade of primer they use over the counter...02 tod

Wes Bischel
06-02-2006, 1:47 PM
sandblasting.........take it to an industrial blasting firm

Excellent advice from Tod. Don't bother with any portable sandblasters DAMHIKT:eek: Getting it done is money well spent - you could spend that amount on stripper, and/or a few weekends on sandblasting! The other thing I would add is use an etching primer. It will give a great base for any topcoat and seal the metal - standard primer/primer fillers don't. (a primer-sealer is what you are looking for - high build primers are for making pretty finishes) It may be a good idea to stop by your local tractor supply store or industrial paint supplier and ask what they have in the way of paint for this application (and who does sandblasting in your area) - auto paints are typically much more expensive than industrial paints. Oh, and this of course would be color matched to your Kubota!

Good luck,
Wes

Matt Meiser
06-02-2006, 1:58 PM
If it were me, I'd just get a wire wheel and thorougly go over it making sure to remove any loose paint and loose rust. Then use something like Rust-O-Leum to paint it--I think they even make a safety orange that will be a prety close match to Kubota oranage. Whatever you do, the paint on the blade itself is going to wear off pretty quickly from the stuff you are moving with it.

Edit: Tractor Supply also sells an oil-base tractor and implement paint that I used on the attachment my dad made to put a receiver hitch on my 3PH. That has held up well. Also, these paints tend to level well, so you can get a pretty good looking finish with a cheap brush that you can just throw away when done.

Jim Becker
06-02-2006, 3:30 PM
If it were me, I'd just get a wire wheel and thorougly go over it making sure to remove any loose paint and loose rust. Then use something like Rust-O-Leum to paint it--I think they even make a safety orange that will be a prety close match to Kubota oranage. Whatever you do, the paint on the blade itself is going to wear off pretty quickly from the stuff you are moving with it.

Edit: Tractor Supply also sells an oil-base tractor and implement paint that I used on the attachment my dad made to put a receiver hitch on my 3PH. That has held up well. Also, these paints tend to level well, so you can get a pretty good looking finish with a cheap brush that you can just throw away when done.
Funny you should mention TS...I just got back from there an hour ago with some of the oil-based implement red oxide primer and Kubota Orange (!) paint along with a few new varieties of wire brushes for drill use to help deal with the rust. I thought about chemically stripping it, but after some contemplation, think that providing a good surface for the primer will work fine for a tool that is not going to get a huge amount of use. I can always get the stripper if I'm not happy with things along the way. I need some for another project, anyway. Between the angle grinder, electric drill with the wire brushes and my Rotex, I should be able to do that reasonably well. I'll replace all the fasteners during disassembly/reassembly, too.

Realistically, I'm not comfortable spending $100 on a cheap sandblaster (or a service for the same) on an implement I paid $150 for, although I do think that would likely result in the absolute best rust/paint removal. It's good advice and I'm not discounting it lightly. I just can't justify the cost after thinking about it since I started this thread this morning.

My singular beef with Tractor Supply is their non-acceptance of AMEX for payment. Not kewel in my world... ;)

Dan Oelke
06-02-2006, 3:32 PM
A angle grinder with cup shaped wire brush does wonders on this sort of thing. I have a cheapie (like Harbor Frieght) that my father-in-law got me (bless his heart) - I figured that it would die within 10 minutes of use but I have put it through a lot and no problems so far. Be sure to wear a face shield, dust mask, and long sleve heavy shirt. The wire brush will kick up a lot of fine dust and occassionally a wire will go flying. The braided wire cups will last longer than a cheap one, but for something that size you shouldn't have any problems. A little sandblasting in the corners that the wire brush doesn't hit might still be needed if you really want to get everything out.

The wire brush will strip off any soft or loose paint, and polish the stuff that is still tight. Also tends to feather the transistion. In general I like it much more than sandblasting (been there, did that) with an underpowered sandblasting rig.

This is a tool - not something to be shined up to the hilt. It will get dings and scrapes and more rust after one minute of real use. So - a couple of spray bombs of primer and whatever color of "implement" paint is all I would use on it. Be sure to let it dry for a couple of days to harden up before using it to minimize the dings. I like to use my "high-volume" sprayer for this, but Im sure an HLVP would do well too. Spray cans even work pretty well 90% of the time. If you really want a good hard surface add some hardner to the paint, but then be sure to wear a good respirator.

Matt Meiser
06-02-2006, 3:42 PM
My singular beef with Tractor Supply is their non-acceptance of AMEX for payment. Not kewel in my world... ;)

Guess they don't think y'all have Amex to pay for "The Stuff You Need Out Here" :rolleyes:

David Wilson
06-02-2006, 3:48 PM
Jim, I possibly have another option. If you can find a radiator shop which repairs truck radiators near you the blade could possibly fit in their hot tank. The combination of heat and the chemicals used should remove most of the paint and rust.

Steve Ash
06-02-2006, 3:58 PM
Jim here is my .02. We restore old tractors for a hobby and I've done several muscle cars as well. When we get something as rusty as what you have there (we get them a lot worse) we take the pieces that we can to a sandblaster to have all the old paint, rust and scale removed. I also have a sandblaster here but would rather have someone else do it since they do it very reasonable and we are repeat customers, and sandblasting is hot work when you are dressed in all that protective clothing and face wear.

After we get the parts back or blast them ourselves (blasters do a wonderful job of getting back to bare metal) then we use a "self etching primer" immediately so no rust will begin on these bare surfaces. Self etching primer actually grabs itself into the small metal pores to make sure your regular primer will stick "guaranteed".

We use PPG paints on most everything we restore but since you are not restoring you could use less expensive paint just make sure that your self etching primer is compatible with what ever paint you decide on. But with that in mind we then prime and paint. Usually I do a base coat clear coat on everything (even my old lathe resto was done this way) and on my Chevelle was a tri-coat.

Now granted you don't need to go to this extreme for what you want to do, but I would definately sandblast and then self etch prime.

Jim Becker
06-02-2006, 6:12 PM
Steve, I'll have to see if I can "easily" find some of the "self etching" primer...it sounds like a good idea no matter what method I use to prepare the surfaces.

Steve Ash
06-02-2006, 8:10 PM
Jim, for as little as you will need your best bet is to go to the local Auto Zone type of place and buy it in 12 oz. aerosol cans.

Good luck on your endeavor.

Jim Becker
06-02-2006, 9:32 PM
Jim, for as little as you will need your best bet is to go to the local Auto Zone type of place and buy it in 12 oz. aerosol cans.

Ah! Exactly what I needed to know! I did a little "test" with the wire brushes and was impressed with the rust and paint removal (chucked them in a cordless for a few minutes since I was just waiting for Dr. SWMBO to get home from work so we could go out for our normal Friday night family dinner out)...'should work fine in any area I can get to with the various wire brush thingies I have available. I'll grab a spray can of the self-etching primer and have it at hand as I work through each area on the implement.

Thanks!

Norman Hitt
06-03-2006, 5:35 AM
Jim, since you are having good luck with the powered wire brush, (which I have also used many times), on the areas you can't get to, or where some paint is still bonded, you can use some regular paint stripper on those areas and then follow up with a "NON Powered" wire brush to prepare it so it's all clean for the self etching primer.

Another thing I have used many times to get Rust and Deep pitted areas clean and smooth, is a Makita 4 1/2" (or maybe it's a 5") disc sander. You've probably seen them, and they have a plastic backer plate and then use a HEAVY backed, but flexible sanding disc (Of different grits), and unlike the right angle grinder, they will Flex enough that you can get a really smooth finish and feather out the deep pitted areas, as compared to the angler grinder's solid stiff grinding wheel. They will also take off paint, but you have to clean the melted paint off regularly which is not really worth the effort except maybe for small areas of paint that didn't come loose with the wire wheel.

Jim Becker
06-03-2006, 10:41 AM
Norm, thanks for the suggestions. Along with the assorted wire brushes, I also got a sanding disc for the angle grinder that uses "flap" design. That should also be helpful in the project.

Jim Becker
06-03-2006, 11:35 PM
Just as an update, I made great progress on this today in-between the rain drops...'got everything taken apart, power washed and then attended to with the flap-wheel on the grinder, wire brush in the angle drill and Rotex. The blade is fully primed on one side with the heavy primer over the sprayed on self-etching stuff that Steve recommended; the 3-pt section and pivot assembly is also fully primed as is the heavy edge. I'll post some pics tomorrow. I would have rather been woodworking, but this little project will certainly generate a little bit of satisfaction...my end cost will likely be under $250 and a new equivalent implement is at least a hundred more than that. Or more for this particular brand.

Jim Becker
06-04-2006, 9:49 PM
I completed the priming today of the "other" side of the blade and additional surfaces on the blade mount that I couldn't reach until inverting it. I also got the first color coat on the main structure of the back blade and completed painting the heavy steel cutting/wear edge black. I was hopeful to easily replace the fasteners, but finding grade three carriage bolts is not something you can do at the local 'borg. The local tractor dealer will likely have them or I may just prime and paint the existing ones and be done with it. But I have to stop there anyway to order one missing bolt that is a whacko thread as well as see if I can get longer draw pins for a wider stance...the spacing on this implement is only 20" and I'd prefer closer to the standard category one 26" as I use a quick attach system on the tractor.

Here's some pics...

The main structure with the first color coat...Kubota Orange, of course

40163

The primed blade and the finished cutting/wear edge

40164

The primed blade mount

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Steve Ash
06-04-2006, 10:05 PM
Paint is looking good Jim. You can more than likely find the bolt at a local TSC store, we have one here that has a great selection of bolts/hardware. Any implement dealers in your area that might also carry bolts is another option.

Jim Becker
06-04-2006, 10:14 PM
You can more than likely find the bolt at a local TSC store, we have one here that has a great selection of bolts/hardware. Any implement dealers in your area that might also carry bolts is another option.

TSC is too long of a ride for bolts...although I did buy the paint there. I'm sure that one of the three local Kubota dealers within 10 miles will have what I need! They are all Woods dealers, too, so I'll be able to find out what the one "whacko bolt" thread is...the downloadable manual "conveniently" doesn't have the one page with the parts listing/specifications on it. Go figure... :(

Frank Fusco
06-06-2006, 7:06 PM
Begs the question: Why? or Why bother?
It looks better than 99% of the tractor attachment equipment I see on 99% of the farms I have ever seen, or that I ever had on my farm.
If it ain't broke, just use it.

Jim Becker
06-06-2006, 8:47 PM
Begs the question: Why? or Why bother?
It looks better than 99% of the tractor attachment equipment I see on 99% of the farms I have ever seen, or that I ever had on my farm.
If it ain't broke, just use it.

I can respect that and considered it. But by restoring it, I "know" it will last for as many years as I'll want to use it (many) and because I enjoy the challenge the project presents. I could have bought a brand new back blade for another hundred or two...but this one just called out to me and said, "I need a new home that appreciates me." ;)

Wes Bischel
06-06-2006, 9:19 PM
Jim,
Lookin' good - now you have to go out immediately and put a few scratches in it!:D Seriously, nice job.

Wes

Don Baer
06-06-2006, 10:23 PM
Begs the question: Why? or Why bother?
It looks better than 99% of the tractor attachment equipment I see on 99% of the farms I have ever seen, or that I ever had on my farm.
If it ain't broke, just use it.

You wouldn't expect any less then this from the moderator of the finish forum would you...:D

Joe Mioux
06-06-2006, 10:57 PM
Your blade is really shaping up nicely.

Joe

Marty Walsh
06-06-2006, 11:26 PM
Jim,

The blade's looking good...almost too good!

If you have some spare time, I have a box blade that Denise has about shot on my shop project. Ford Blue would be appreciated... :D

- Marty -

Jim Becker
06-07-2006, 9:39 AM
JI have a box blade that Denise has about shot on my shop project. Ford Blue would be appreciated...

Tractor Supply has the paint and even sitting down, you should have enough energy after playing with all that stone to slather some on! :D

Jim Becker
07-01-2006, 7:51 PM
So I finally got some time today to put this project "to bed"...which means "put together". I'm pleased with the results, too. Yea, I could have left this implement "as is" and gotten a few years life out of it, I'm a bit to anal to overlook excessive amounts of rust...so the work was worth it to me. So here it is...and these pictures make that first on in Post One look really scary! :o

From the back...

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From the front...

41881

Mounted from the front...

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Mounted from the back...

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Resting in it's rightful place in the "implement conga line" (only the backhoe isn't shown in this photo as I haven't moved it up here yet)...

41884

Now...on to some woodworking...hopefully! ;)

Kyle Stiefel
07-01-2006, 7:57 PM
Fine work Jim!

Wes Bischel
07-01-2006, 8:24 PM
Uh oh, it looks so nice, you'll need to redo the other implements as well!!;) :D

Seriously, it should serve you well for many years to come - and look good too!

Wes

Joe Mioux
07-01-2006, 8:53 PM
I thought Woods Implements were closer "Cat" yellow? :confused: ;)

Anyway, Jim, the finished product looks "show room new" Ahhh, Kubota "show room new". Well done!

Joe

Jim Becker
07-01-2006, 10:34 PM
I thought Woods Implements were closer "Cat" yellow?

When you buy them as "Woods" implements, they are somewhat like Cat yellow...in fact, the PHD and chipper/shredder in the last picture show the Wood factory color. But they also build OEM and there are products out there in Kubota orange, Deere green, New Holand blue, etc. Since I was starting from something akin to bare metal after beating the rust into submission, I chose to go with Kubota orange.

Bob Weisner
07-01-2006, 11:14 PM
Good work. Looks like it is brand new!!

Jerry Olexa
07-01-2006, 11:26 PM
Excellent work, Jim...Looks new to me...Enjoy it..

Jim Becker
07-02-2006, 11:02 AM
One thing I forgot to mention is that this piece originally had "Cat 0" spacing on the lift pins. While procuring new hardware, I was able to get some longer pieces and using a bushing, get almost to the "Cat 1" spec. This is important to me as I use a quick-change system (Pat's) on my 3pt and it works best with all the implements having identical lift pin spacing. (For you folks who use a lot of different implements, the Pat's system (http://www.greenwellmfg.com/index.html) is really great and makes changing a lot easier and faster)

Bart Leetch
07-02-2006, 11:11 AM
Now all you need is a great big pile of chips & sawodust to move around with this new wood working toy.:D

Jim Becker
07-02-2006, 12:54 PM
Now all you need is a great big pile of chips & sawodust to move around with this new wood working toy.

Have it! All of the chips from the tree removal necessary for our driveway project are on-site...and there will be a lot of grading to do after the folks get done with said driveway. (They are starting tomorrow morning...)

Mark Pruitt
07-02-2006, 3:53 PM
Great restoration job! BTW Jim how do you manage to cram 48 hours into a 24 hour day? All the stuff you get accomplished...wow. And here I am still fumbling about trying to get this doggone workbench completed! (Uhhh....I guess I could get off this computer and get back to work):o