Jointing with hand router

[Nissim Avrahami]

Good day

If you are amateur like me, and don’t have jointer, you are probably using one of the methods: Hand router and straight edge or router table with split fence.
I prefer the straight edge method.
I added some small aid (stops) that helps me to position the fence without all the measuring.
You can make those stops for any bit dia that you are using.

Hope it will help some of you

Regards
niki

[Nissim Avrahami]

Pictures, part II

[Alan DuBoff]

Looks complicated, but it worked. You can just put the router in a table, set the outfeed fence even with the straight bit, and the infeed a tad back, whola, jointer. Pat Warner describes it on his webpage, Jointing on the Routertable (http://www.patwarner.com/routertable_jointing.html), pretty good. Before I got a small jointer, I have done that with a split straight fence, by added a thin set of washers to the outfeed side screws which hold the outfeed fence on.

Another solution I use is a hand plane, a Stanley No 8 does the trick for me, but the router works fine if one doesn't mind the noise.

[Norman Hitt]

[QUOTE=Alan DuBoff]Looks complicated, but it worked. You can just put the router in a table, set the outfeed fence even with the straight bit, and the infeed a tad back, whola, jointer. Pat Warner describes it on his webpage, Jointing on the Routertable (http://www.patwarner.com/routertable_jointing.html), pretty good. Before I got a small jointer, I have done that with a split straight fence, by added a thin set of washers to the outfeed side screws which hold the outfeed fence on. QUOTE]

I never cared much for split fences, (except for rare/special applications), but found a method to make a "Jointer Fence" very quick, simple and easy, and have used this method for several years. I just straightline rip a 2" or slightly wider board the length of the fence I want, and then drill a hole in the middle at one edge for the routerbit clearance, with a forstner bit, (sometimes I drill the hole first and then rip), and then just using a straight fence on the router table, (making sure to hold the new fence tight to the infeed fence), I route the edge with the hole in it as far as the hole in the middle. This gives the offset for the jointing operation, and then just clamp it on the RT with the jointed half of the new fence located on the infeed side. I use a file to slightly bevel the outfeed side of the hole in the middle to eliminate any "Catching" of the material to be edge jointed after it passes the router bit.

Simple, but effective.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Alan
That’s what I meant as “split fence” in my post. For some reason, it never worked for my both “left hands”, so I reverted to this method.

Norman
As my father told me, “every day you learn something new but you will die stupid”.
I learnt something new from you.

Thanks
niki

[Norman Hitt]

Alan
That’s what I meant as “split fence” in my post. For some reason, it never worked for my both “left hands”, so I reverted to this method.

Norman
As my father told me, “every day you learn something new but you will die stupid”.
I learnt something new from you.

Thanks
niki

It never ceases to amaze me at how many different ways there can be to accomplish the same objective in woodworking.:D I always enjoy reading other woodworkers posts of how they do things, and the jigs they make. I guess I'm somewhat "Lazy" (or maybe just Conservative in my expenditure of physical labor/exercise):rolleyes:, so I'm always looking for an easier or simpler way to do things, and I have picked up quite a few new ideas from members here on the forum. I have certainly enjoyed your posts and the excellent documentation of your jigs and methods, Niki, and I'm always happy to pass along any knowlege or tips/tricks that I have picked up over the years. Keep those neat posts coming, Niki, 'cause you've got some good Tricks up your sleeve.;)

[Ian Abraham]

Hey .. it works :D

For a beginner without fixed tools or even a lot of skill it's a practical way to get a good straight edge.
Even if all you have is basic power tools, a B&D workmate and a straight edge you can still joint boards, easy and safe. The little wooden block spacers are what makes it quick and easy.

Good pictures and explanation

Cheers

Ian

[Andy Henriksen]

I like this idea, and may use it next time. I've been using a straight board taped to the work piece and jointed with a flush cut router bit. This technique looks much quicker, and doesn't involve peeling off tape over and over.