Tablesaw finish

[Jacob Snow]

Would this be ok to put on a table saw to finish and protect it?

[Steve Clardy]

What are you referring to Jacob?

[Rob Bodenschatz]

I think he's referring to this.

[Jacob Snow]

i am looking to remove that grease that comes on a new piece of equipment and i want to put something back to help things slide better and protect the top from rust.

[glenn bradley]

Jacob, you still haven't told us what "this" is.

[Jacob Snow]

Sorry i thought i posted the link to the appropriate product page (i coulda sworn i put it in the first message :)

http://www.howardproducts.com/feednwax.htm

[Steve Schoene]

If you have it on hand looks like it would work OK, but no need to get fancy. Butchers Wax or equivalent works fine. Just avoid automotive waxes with silicone, because of potential for finishing problems.

[Steve Clardy]

Jacob. Thats a wood protector. You are talking about needing something for a tablesaw top? Cast Iron?

[Jacob Snow]

yeah looking to protect my tablesaw cast iron top. THats the only wax finish stuff thati could find at home depot that seemed like it had the stuff that i wanted in it. I bought it, but thought i would ask what the pros thought. Neither lowes nor home depot had anything other kind of wax really...

[Mark Pruitt]

Jacob, it sounds to me like you're wanting first to remove the oily stuff that was on the bare cast iron surface when your TS was shipped to you. Use naphtha to clean the oily stuff off. Mineral spirits/Paint thinner will work, but naphtha will dry much more quickly.

Once you clean all the oily stuff off the top, there are a number of coatings you can apply. One is Top-Cote, another is Boeshield T-9, another is Renaissance Wax. Of the three, the RW is probably the better alternative, though Boeshield T-9 is also an excellent product. Any of these will require buffing for the most effective application.

[Steve Clardy]

Ok. I use straight beeswax for my iron tops.
And an ocasional sprinkling off talcum powder when I'm in a hurry and the top gets dry, wood drags.

[Al Killian]

I use slip-it from rockler. It works well and doesn't affect the wood. It works great on plastics to.

[Todd Burch]

Rob, I haven't laughed so hard in a month!!! THANKS! ROTFLMAO!!!

[Chet Parks]

Would this be ok to put on a table saw to finish and protect it?

I use this on all my CI power tool tops. Works great on MDF also.

http://www.bwccompany.com/bowlingalley.html

My local hardware store sells it for $6.99 an can.

Chet

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Do not put that stuff on your table saw.

It's got an acid in it. Oranges are acidic.
Unless they are using some trade slang like almost all furinuture polish companies do the orange is a citrus product and all are acidic. In no event is anything from an orange going to help you with cast iron. In the trade, "lemon oil" is not made from lemons. What orange oil is I can't guess.


Beeswax is also something you might not want to use.
This because bees wax is more like a microcrystalline wax than a large monomer line carnuba or even parafin. Bees wax will always be a tad softer and more adhesive sticking and dragging against things because it is inherrently conformal.

I worked with beeswax extensively when designing extrusion equipment for cosmetics and marking companies Beeswax in a polymeric extrusion isn't lubricious it causes the product to shrink a tad when it exits the extrusion die. That is a self release action entirely unrelated to lubricity.

Pure beeswax is actually stringy and gooey. Grab a pure bees wax candle and drag it across something. Then do the same with a harder wax.

When looking for something to out on a cast iron surface look for carnuba wax in the ingredients. It's the hardest (and slickest) of natural waxes.