Super Dust Gorilla Progress - 3

[Michael Gabbay]

Well this weekend was full of duct work hanging for me. In between family get togethers and yard work etc. I was able to spend some time in the shop getting the duct work hung.

So far everything is hung and I'm almost finished sealing the joints. I'm using alum. tape and silicone caulk.

I had to do a little creative shaping with a few adjustable 90's to get the drop to the CMS under and across the I-beam. You can see that in the 3rd and 4th photos.

I did a sound level test yesterday with one gate open (I'm actually waiting for a gate for OAS). The unit measures at 80 - 81 db at 10'. Not too bad. I can hear a few leaks so maybe once I'm completely done it might drop a little.

I should have everything done by the weekend. I need to get the shop back in order, its a disaster!

Thanks for looking,

Mike

[Chris McKimson]

Looks good Mike. Did Oneida come up with the design? Ducting my DC was an enjoyable experience. Turned out better than I had hoped.

On a humorous note, after spending much time and $$ ducting my 3HP Super Gorilla, my wife told me, she had seen on TV somebody on HGTV who "had a cart" that wheeled the DC around to each machine, and wouldn't that be better than "all those ugly pipes". She ask "couldn't you build a cart?". :D
I assurred her I was happy with the DC and piping but I thought it was pretty funny.

Chris

[Julio Navarro]

Looks great Michael! Why did you decide to go with metal pipe rather than the 6" sewer plastic pipe? I am getting ready to start my ducting as well. I was planning to use the green sewer pipes. At $26 a ten foot section I figure that is affordable.

[Chris McKimson]

Julio,

I was able to get 6" 24 gauge spiral from Spiral Mfg. for 1.52 a foot. Now the fittings (wyes, elbows, etc) were the expensive part, but my guess is that holds true with the PVC as well.

Chris

[Julio Navarro]

Julio,

Now the fittings (wyes, elbows, etc) were the expensive part, but my guess is that holds true with the PVC as well.

Chris
Aint that the truth! Each PVC wye is $15!!

I havent bought all the pipe yet, so I just might have to look into the metal duct. I am glad you posted these pictures.\

Thanks

[Michael Gabbay]

Julio - I like metal since you can reuse the fittings. With plastic, once it is glued then that is it, can't be moved....:(

I resued about 75% of my old duct work with the new design. That saved about $150 - $200.


Chris - OAS did the final design but Allan Johansan, other SMC'rs and I came up with the original design.

Mike

[Jim Becker]

That's a really nice installation, Mike! Great job.

And Julio, PVC is becoming a more expensive option than it used to be due to the high price of oil. When you combine the closing cost gap with the flexibility you always have gotten with metal, metal is more attractive than it used to be. It was my choice from the start, however, due to the flexibility part...PVC is only available in limited, "even number" sizes.

[Bart Leetch]

I have never had a leak with PVC & I only glued it in one place. Then I figured these Joints sure seem awful tight when I put them together or take them apart when I do a oops so I use self drilling screws 2 or 3 to a joint & some joints don't have any.:eek: :D

[CPeter James]

I am interested in prices for 6" wyes and elbows and 6 to 5 and 5 to 4 reducers. How much did the total system cost. I have to do my shop and I have an older Oneida 1 1/2 hp retro fitted with an external filter. That retrofit almost doubled my flow volume. Presently, I am using a 25' length of 5" hose that I move from machine to machine. I would like to fix it right.

CPeter

[Chris McKimson]

CPeter,

The price of my 20 gauge fittings from Sprial Mfg were: 33.30 for a 6x6x6 wye; 10.74 for a 90 LR elbow; 10.17 for a 5 X 4 reducer. I didn't get any 6 X 5 reducers anytime I reduced from 6 to 5 it was with a reducing wye.

HTH

Chris

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

None of my PVC pipe is glued, in fact I had to use dish-soap and water mix to get them to go together nice.

I taped them up with that aluminium tape stuf, works fine.

Cheers!

[Julio Navarro]

Hiya Stu! Hows the turning coming along?

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Hiya Stu! Hows the turning coming along?
round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and round and .......where was I....? :rolleyes:;):D

How is the cyclone project going, does it still suck...? :D

[Jim O'Dell]

No, I wouldn't use the PVC glue for it, but put the fittings in place, then caulk around the seams for PVC pipe and fittings. That way you can still take it apart and redo things when (not if) your layout changes. Jim.

[Byron Trantham]

I used PVC for all my duct work and taped the joints with the metal tape used for air/heat ducts. The stuff seals like crazy and a utility knife around the seam will let you take it apart.

[Julio Navarro]

As you know, its taking a bit of time. I just got the FARR filter last Friday and am going to start putting that together.

Will keep you posted.

[Alden Miller]

I'm still thinking that a new tablesaw would have been set up quicker. Also, if you move that lolly column you'd have more room... :D

Looks good Mike!

-Alden

[Norman Hitt]

Julio - I like metal since you can reuse the fittings. With plastic, once it is glued then that is it, can't be moved....:(

I resued about 75% of my old duct work with the new design. That saved about $150 - $200.
Mike

Mike, Just for Information Purposes.......you don't "Glue" the PVC when installing it. All the fittings are a nice snug fit on the 6" PVC, and then you just run a VERY THIN bead of Tub & Tile caulk/sealer around the outside edge of the joint and since that sealer remains flexible (kind of like rubber), it will hold the joint and seal it from any leaks. If you need to move or change it out, you just run a razor blade around it, and the Tub & Tile Caulk easily slices right off and you can pull the joints apart and reuse them as many times as you wish.

"OOPS"......I thought I was at the end of the replies..........but now I see that others have already mentioned this. CRS must be in full swing tonight.