Looking for a dovetail saw

[Brian Hale]

It's time to put the router down and start cutting those buggers by hand. So, i need a saw. Following the advice of (IIRC) FWW i bought the 10" Crown dovetail saw from Highland hardware. Big disappointment; the saw arrived with a slight bow to it ( < 1/8" ) and it just won't cut straight so back it goes.

Then i get this catalog from Bridge City Tool Works and it's got this real pretty saw ...

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/pages_framework/frameset_stage.asp?primary=0&secondary=0&tertiary=-1

So that pretty much cover the price spectrum... $18 - $120.

I don't have a problem paying the $120 and the adjustable depth thingy seems like a good idea once i learn to cut to a line.

So what do you guys think? is it worth it? Anyone have any Bridge City tools and are they a good quality? Any other options i should be considering?

Thanks!!

Brian :)

[Larry Rose]

Brian, I dont know about Bridge City but I have a Lie-Nielsen that is great. Its a little pricey but really works.

[Michael Gibbons]

Brian, I have the LN straight handled dovetail saw and it works great and it's middle of the road price of $75 isn't bad I am also getting the LN pistol grip dovetail saw for my birthday..(OOps I wasn't suppossed to know that ):D .


Mike

[John Miliunas]

Brian, check this one out: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36649
What a wonderful piece!!! :) :cool:

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Brian,

If it is a pull saw type you are wanting, you simply cannot go wrong with the Odate dovetail saw.

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-JS340.XX&Category_Code=TSJ

It is a very good saw from a very good company.

Take care, Mike

[John Miliunas]

Hi Brian,

If it is a pull saw type you are wanting, you simply cannot go wrong with the Odate dovetail saw.

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-JS340.XX&Category_Code=TSJ

It is a very good saw from a very good company.

Take care, Mike

Yeah, but if it's a Western style saw, I hear that Mike Wenzloff makes a dandy saw, as well! :D "...very good saw from a very good "company"!!!":D :cool:

[Scott Coffelt]

I like my Adria saw, but the LN is also really nice. I prefer the pistol grip myself.

[Michael Fross]

Yeah, but if it's a Western style saw, I hear that Mike Wenzloff makes a dandy saw, as well! :D "...very good saw from a very good "company"!!!":D :cool:
I just read a review of Mike's saws in popular woodworking. Very high marks.

Michael

[Jim Becker]

I have the Adria and really love it...top in the recent FW review, too. I bought it before I knew about Mike W's gems...

[Brian Hale]

Thanks Guys!!

So what should i look for in a saw? Do i want a thin blade or one with the smallest set? I assume a smaller set will help the body of the blade guide the cut?

Push or pull, I'm not sure which I'll like better. I guess that since I'm used to western style saws i should start with that style.

I thought the adjustable depth stop on the BC saw would be a useful feature; or is it just a gimmick?

Brian :)

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Brian,

I think the stops, even on a western-style saw, are more appropriate for cutting things like tenon shoulders, lap joints, tenon cheeks, dados and the like. The relatively small width of a board for joinery such as DTs or box joints sill allow the saw to "rock" over the far edge and still cut past the line.

I do have a few western saws with the adjustable backs, and these do work well for larger work.

I think two things. First, it seems you are new to cutting joinery by hand. Second, you are more use to western saws. But you haven't necessarily got experience in using them for small joinery tasks, so I don't know how much weight that should carry.

If there is someone near you that had one or both styles, I would say buy them the beverage of their choice and spend part of a day trying out both types of saws. Make lots of cuts. But make productive cuts. Take scraps of the type of woods you use, square up one end and draw a series of lines down the end of the board and practice with each type.

In the end, you'll be able to be more confident about the type of saw to purchase and use. And that's half the battle.

Take care, Mike

[Mark Singer]

Mike ,
That is exactly the best way to practice and I have used it to teach many to cut following a line. This is what you do when you cut joinery and it is a great way to practice...A relaxed grip is key as well

[tod evans]

brian, i started cutting pins-n-tails with an old stanley lumberyard special. in order to make it function the way i wanted first i removed the blade from the spine then pressed the set out of the teeth then reinstalled the blade backwards so it cut on the pull stroke waxed `er up and started cutting. to this day i still like the feel of these cheap throw-away saws and find myself reaching for them more than my expensive ones..02 tod

[Brian Hale]

Well i made it to Woodcraft today and picked up their $55 Dozuki saw,(along with 3 of their 2'x5' mats on sale for $12 each, a 40" rule and some Veritas dovetail markers) based on the advice of one of the folks who work there. Seems like it's the wrong saw. Real fine teeth that crosscut great but rips real real slow. Should i have gotten something with a smaller tooth count?

BTW, i'm testing it on some 3/4" ash.

Brian :)

[Mike Wenzloff]

If you can return it, and you would like a pull saw, consider the Odate referenced above. Not quite the instant gratification a local purchase is, but it is a better saw for small joinery.

Take care, Mike

[Brian Hale]

Do i need a special type of chisel or should i just modify what i have?

Brian :)

[Brian Hale]

I ordered the Odate saw from Tools for Working Wood. :D

Now if i can just cut to a line :rolleyes:

Thanks again guys!

Brian :)

[Alan DuBoff]

Do i need a special type of chisel or should i just modify what i have?I see no reason a sharp chisel won't work for any type of joinery. If yours is dull, you might try modifying it into a sharp one! ;)

Was at the Gamble House in Pasadena, CA today and much to my surprise, Ralph Laughton's Success with Joints (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1861084153/qid=1148803934/sr=2-1/ref=pd_bbs_b_2_1/103-5484301-2958249?s=books&v=glance&n=283155) book was for sale in the bookstore. I would highly reccomend if you're starting out.

I see you ordered a decent pull saw, and I have tried a pull saw but it wasn't too good, mine doesn't cut hardwoods very well. Some of the harder woods is more like trying to file the wood. I would reccomend something like the mitsukawa (quite a bit more) or hiraide has a hardwood saw for about $60. Mike might be able to comment on that in comparison to the one he pointed you to, not sure. I have a couple saws that Mike made for me, I prefer a western style saw for myself, after giving both a fair evaluation. :eek:

Another great book is the Charles Hayworth Woodwork Joints (or similar), but it's out of print. I paid about $30 for my copy after a strong reccomendation. The Laughton book is much more visual to show the more common joints, I would reccomend that route first, especially since it's $12 plus some change.