Paging Dr. Gary Max, Cedarologist (UPDATED)

[Chris Barton]

I managed to snag a really nice 4" long cedar log this afternoon that is almost all purple/red. I cut a chunk and put it on the lathe as soon as I got home just to try it out. I noticed a few things about cedar. First, it really wants to crack at the base tennon where I am holding it in a chuck. Second, it doesn't seem wet like other green wood but, obviously is. Third, the color seems to change while sanding (loosing intensity and brightness). Lastly, it seems like it has silica or some other "sanding" like substance in it and it scored one of my gouges.

So, Gary (and anyone else that wants to provide advice). You are a certified Cedarologist, give me some insights into turning cedar!

UPDATE: here is the picture of the finished product...

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Chris, I'm certinally no expert but I'll share what I have just learned about the five cedar turnings I have done. I noticed the same thing about the tennon you did. Yes, as you work the wood the color fades but comes back on finishing. It will turn your DNA Blood Red. If you put Blo on it the white wood will yellow (not pretty) The hotter the wood gets the more cracks you will see and hear. That's correct, I said hear, you will actually hear the wood crack the sound is a small popping noise. Other than that is is great to work with I think. Oh, one more thing the tennon is prime for launching the object clear out of the shop and into the front yard from the back. I can't speak to the silica issue. I noticed it turns somewhat like pine only easier. Lessons: turn med speed, sand light, clear finish only.

[Chris Barton]

Hey Chris,

Thanks for the insights. I smeared some urethane glue into the cracked base tennon last night as well as repaired a crack in the body and will try your suggestions this morning. If the big PM3520a launches it, oh well, I still have 3 more feet of log and I know where plenty more is at.

[Frank Fusco]

I sell eastern aromatic red cedar and work it some. You are right, it is very brittle and soft. Some enjoy working it, others find it a disaster wanting to happen. It will crack on drying. Choice is yours. Let crack and call 'art' or wait and do only smaller pieces. It can be very beautiful. A word of caution, the dust can be a powerful irritant. The aroma is great but the dust will swell up my throat, sinuses and mouth for days if I am not cautious. I'm not an 'allergic' type person so I suspect this toxicity could affect many people. Keep your scraps for insect repellant in stored clothes and the closet.

[Gary Max]

Ah the joys of working with Cedar----I like very little sap wood---always mount and finish Cedar the same day---helps cut down on the cracking.
I let mine sit for about a year before I even touch it. I take a 8 foot log cut it in half and stand the 4 ft logs on end. I make sure they are standing on a spacer so the is air under the log. It's not that the log will dry in a year it will just loose a bunch of water in a year.
So where's the pics at-----my dang puter ain't showing any??????????

[Chris Barton]

Hi Gary,

I will post a picture later today. Sadly, I had to do a rescue disk boot on my computer last week and lost all my pictures and have yet to reinstall all the software for picture manipulation. But, stay tuned!

Thanks Again,

Chris

[Gary Max]

Shucks that looks great---the cracks---wood just too wet. No real way of getting around that with cedar that I know of except for letting the log sit and get a little dry. I would fill will thick CA and sand in with fine paper. You can fill it with the dust. You would need to try that at a low rpm so you don't fling the CA out of the crack. ---Hope that make sense
I was thinking about your term Cedarologist---I like that
Here are a couple of pics I took today
First pic-----that is a 2 1/2 gallon gas can sitting on that log
Last pic-----I turn the legs to fit the slabs---they are my BIG milking stools

[Scott Fernald]

Dang! No moths in your shop! Cool pics, thanks for posting...