How do I put an edge on a cabinet scraper?

[Tim Solley]

Hi everyone,

I bought a cabinet scraper a while back, but didn't realize that it needs to be worked on before it will do any good.

Can anyone give me a quick rundown of what I'm supposed to do to it to make it usable? I understand I need to burnish the edge? Not sure what this is exactly. Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!

Tim

[John Gregory]

Dave Marks has posted some instructions. click here (http://www.djmarks.com/stories/djm/sharpening_scrapers_88355.asp)
Just remember like everything else in wood working it takes practice to get it right. My wife and I use card scrapers a lot. You will be amazed how useful they are.

[Robert Mayer]

I did the same thing when i first got my scrapers. I couldnt figure out how david marks would make nice shavings and mine made dust.

buy this thing:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32633&cat=1,310,41070&ap=1

it works awesome and is easy enough for a monkey to use.

[Larry Crim]

I agree with robert the lee valley burnisher and holder are a plus, I had a hard time learning how to use them but now I use them more than the belt sander and ROS, one thing I would recomend is get several, I have several and marked they for fine, general and heavy removal and burnish them all at the same time and then attack the work so I do not have to stop to re-burnish.
Pat

[Paul O'Halloran]

Tim
There are 4 links to scraper sharpening & use in this Hand Tool Link
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm
Paul

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

You can buy stuff or you can make stuff.
You can make scrapers into a complicated thing or leave it simple.
Really, it's your choice. Either way, the proof is in the pudding.

I file the edge of the steel to force a burr and just wail away on the wood for rough work.
If I want a nice sweet fine edge for finish work I'll file the scraper's edge and stone the burr I just made off by rubbing a little stone against the flat face of the scraper (note: there is always going to be a little burr). Then I take a burnisher (made from an old file) and pull or puch the tool in a sort of kind of (yah ok) Diagonal angle to the edge canted slightly so as to pull up a tiny bit of the steel on the scraper's edge.

The entire process can be summed up as follows:
File it and/or Drag a burnisher across the edge to force a little burr.
That's it.

Just go and try it a few times within fifteen minutes or half that you'll be dab hand with the scraper.

Make you own burnisher from a file. I like rat tail files but a triangle will do OK too. I made one from an old Chef's steel - It's easily my favorite. Take the teeth off on a sander. POOF instant burnisher.
You can make a couple of 'em each with it's own finish or texture (use a different abrasive grit on the sander). The difference in the finish will produce different types of edges on your scraper. A more coarse finished burnisher will produce a more agressive finish.

I prefer them to tun laterally with the length of the burnisher. It's sort of like a super fine Chef's steel.

[Brian Evans]

Here is a tutorial on scraping from a friend over at BT3.

http://www.theturnersshop.com/woodwork/scraping/card/cs1.html

[Gilbert Vega]

Dave Marks has posted some instructions. click here (http://www.djmarks.com/stories/djm/sharpening_scrapers_88355.asp)


I was in a class with Dave Marks and asked why he got shavings and I got dust when using a scraper. I found out that I was basically doing the same procedure except that I was not using water stones after filing to put a mirror finish. He says that if one does not use the stones, the results will not be as expected.

[Frank Pellow]

...
buy this thing:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32633&cat=1,310,41070&ap=1

it works awesome and is easy enough for a monkey to use.
That's what I was going to recommend. It does work well!

[Bruce Wrenn]

Sharpening a scraper is like all sharpening- PRACTICE,PRACTICE. That being said, one of the best ways to learn is to actually observe someone doing it. When you see how simple it actually is, you can grasp concepts and apply them. A picture is worth a thousand words, but I will take alive demonstration every time. Several years ago, our woodworking assoc. had Garrett Hack come and teach a class on tuning and sharpening a handplane. Prior to this, I only thought my planes and chisels were sharp.

[glenn bradley]

I just got my first set of scrapers. I followed the directions mentioned in this post via the links. They were from Woodcraft who also include an article on sharpening with the scrapers when they ship.

I'm no hot-shot but I got a great edge and great shavings following my first try. Second try was even better. Why does it always amaze me when some of these guys who have been doing this for YEARS have it pretty well figured out?

[Mark Singer]

It is important to use a waterstone after filing... Another thing is dont overburnish and roll the burr over too far...it will not contact the surface. I have several scrapers and I only put 2 burrs on each one...so I can hold the scrapper....I put a larger burr on some and smaller on others...so I options for different woods or how aggressive or fine I want to get

[Dan Bussiere]

This might be a good demonstration to do at some of the get togethers, such as the upcoming 5 Barns. Folks like me learn better by watching than reading. These are the tricks of the trade I would love to learn from all you masters!

[Henry Cavanaugh]

I saw the video "Sharpening Woodworking Tools" with Leonard Lee ( Lee Valley) use a belt sander for both the edge and very lightly deburing on both flat sides, and then adding hook. I would asume that his book does it the same way. Any tricks on adding hook on gooseneck scrapers?

[Tim Solley]

Well, thanks for all the input. I went to Woodcraft, and that Veritas adjustable burnisher (sold by Lee Valley, but actually made by Veritas) was cheaper than a regular burnishing rod, and it came with a scraper so I have two now!

I took it home and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. I followed the directions and took a few passes with moderate pressure. No dice. So I leaned into it and suddenly felt it when the burr rolled over.

Man, that thing is awesome. This whole thread got started because I wanted to use a card scraper to clean up a 60x24 inch panel glue up for a dresser top I'm building. I took that scraper to the glue joints and boy did it make quick work of leveling the joints and cleaning up any glue squeeze out. My shop floor is littered with little shavings. My wife thinks they're just so pretty.

Anyway, thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I like the results better than if I had sanded the top, and a whole lot faster too. The only problem is, my hands were shot!

Tim

[John Gregory]

Well, thanks for all the input. I went to Woodcraft, and that Veritas adjustable burnisher (sold by Lee Valley, but actually made by Veritas) was cheaper than a regular burnishing rod, and it came with a scraper so I have two now!

I took it home and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. I followed the directions and took a few passes with moderate pressure. No dice. So I leaned into it and suddenly felt it when the burr rolled over.

Man, that thing is awesome. This whole thread got started because I wanted to use a card scraper to clean up a 60x24 inch panel glue up for a dresser top I'm building. I took that scraper to the glue joints and boy did it make quick work of leveling the joints and cleaning up any glue squeeze out. My shop floor is littered with little shavings. My wife thinks they're just so pretty.

Anyway, thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I like the results better than if I had sanded the top, and a whole lot faster too. The only problem is, my hands were shot!

Tim

Your hands do get tired. I tried this (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4712) from Woodcraft, and all I can say is SAVE YOUR MONEY. It bows the card too much and doesn't hold the scraper well. I bought two, one for me and one for my wife. Now they just take up drawer space.

[John Buzzurro]

The only problem is, my hands were shot!

Tim

If you want to reduce the fatigue on your hands, check out scraper holders. I bought a nice one from Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32669&cat=1,310

[Frank Pellow]

...
(sold by Lee Valley, but actually made by Veritas)
...
Tim
Tim, Veritas is (essentially) a subsidiary of Lee Valley. The main Veritas manufacturing site, Lee Valley headquarters, and the Lee Valley main store all occupy the same real estate in Ottawa.

[john mclane]

At one of the classes I took at Woodcraft the instructor just started to use a card sharpener and then when we all asked he showed us ho to put the edge on and use. I bought one that day with a burnishing rod and it took me about 2 wks to get an edge that was really taking scraping. It was one of those simple neanderthal tools that makes you feel like you have some control over its use without having to buy a lot of gadgets to sharpen and hold. I have no objections on using electrons or gadgets for other uses though.

[Steven Wilson]

File to square the edge and then run the edge on a stone (side works well), then run both faces on a stone. If you do this a couple of times the burr will be gone. Then run your finger behind your ear to get some oil and apply that to the face. Now turn a hook on the scraper with your favorite implement.

Also, prepare one scraper as above but without turning a hook. It's great for leveling shellac or lacquer.

[Tom Jones III]

LOML recently started helping me more in the shop. She wanted to work on smoothing some figured wood so I gave her a scraper. Her hands were not strong enough to use the card scraper so I got a Stanley #80 which is essentially a holder for a card scraper. It is cheap and works very well. I still use hand held to focus on a particular spot but now use th #80 for everything else.

[Art Davis]

I'd like to say thanks to Tim for starting this thread and to all those who posted comments, advice, and links. After reading it, I ordered a scraper kit from Rockler that included a rectangular scraper, a file, and a burnisher. I went through the filing, burnishing, and edge drawing once and began to draw fine curly shavings from a piece of redwood. Now I am usually all thumbs on such things, particularly sharpening, so you should consider it a tribute to your advice.

I can only think that at last I'm really into woodworking. Watching those little curly guys come up off the wood is great!

Thanks.