Writing desk finished

[Warren White]

Good evening!
Some time ago, I asked for some suggestions for applying finish to a cherry writing desk I built. You may remember that I took the class at Marc Adams School of Woodworking, and that Kelly Mehler was the instructor.

This is the first real piece of furniture that I have ever built, and while it isn't up to the amazing standards of most of you on the Creek, I must admit I am pleased with the results.

I have to be up front with the Shaker purists on the forum. The only thing that makes the half-blind and through dovetails on the desk drawers hand cut is that I was holding the router in my hand as it cut them. The drawer bottoms are not milled-down cherry, but birch ply. I know, I have sinned, but I ask forgiveness. (That is, after all easier to get than permission, isn't it?)

My thanks to all who made suggestions for the finish. I decided to follow the lead of Bruce in Albuquerque, who was most generous in taking the time to explain in detail the steps he had taken in finishing his outstanding cherry cradle. Thanks to him, I think the finish turned out very well.

I have never posted a picture to the forum, but I will give it a shot. If it doesn't work, I am sorry.

Best to all, and your comments/suggestions are most welcome.

Warren

[Warren White]

I hope I haven't burped on the system, but this second picture exceeded the maximum file size when I tried to add it to the first. I hope it is OK to add it this way....

Again, your comments are most appreciated.

Warren

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Good evening!
Some time ago, I asked for some suggestions for applying finish to a cherry writing desk I built. You may remember that I took the class at Marc Adams School of Woodworking, and that Kelly Mehler was the instructor.

This is the first real piece of furniture that I have ever built, and while it isn't up to the amazing standards of most of you on the Creek, I must admit I am pleased with the results.

I have to be up front with the Shaker purists on the forum. The only thing that makes the half-blind and through dovetails on the desk drawers hand cut is that I was holding the router in my hand as it cut them. The drawer bottoms are not milled-down cherry, but birch ply. I know, I have sinned, but I ask forgiveness. (That is, after all easier to get than permission, isn't it?)

My thanks to all who made suggestions for the finish. I decided to follow the lead of Bruce in Albuquerque, who was most generous in taking the time to explain in detail the steps he had taken in finishing his outstanding cherry cradle. Thanks to him, I think the finish turned out very well.

I have never posted a picture to the forum, but I will give it a shot. If it doesn't work, I am sorry.

Best to all, and your comments/suggestions are most welcome.

Warren

Warren,

That's a beauty. I like the style and the finish is just outstanding. You did a great job. I don't know how you got the cherry to come out so even but I admire your results. Maybe you could post the steps involved in your finish. Keep up the great work. Alan in Md.

[Mike Schwing]

Outstanding! And I'll bet the Shakers would be using routers today.

[Glenn Clabo]

Warren,
It ain't no sin when things turn out like this. That is a very nice piece of work. One of those that would be impossible to walk by without touching I bet.

[Tony Falotico]

Good evening!
and while it isn't up to the amazing standards of most of you on the Creek, I must admit I am pleased with the results.

your comments/suggestions are most welcome.

Warren

Warren -- BEAUTIFUL!! Don't sell yourself short on 'amazing standards' that is great work.

I do have one comment/suggestion -- :D get back in the shop and keep producing beautiful work!

Congratulations on a successful project. Tony

[Jim Becker]

OUTSTANDING piece, Warren.

And Mike is correct, I have no doubt that the Shakers would be using power tools like routers today. Their practical nature would demand it. Besides, I believe that the table saw was "invented" by a Shaker woman, if I'm recalling properly.

[Ted Shrader]

<hr>. . . This is the first real piece of furniture that I have ever built, and while it isn't up to the amazing standards of most of you on the Creek . . . .NONSENSE!!! <hr>


Warren -

That is a beautiful piece of furniture of which you can be justifiably proud.

Well done!
Ted

[Bruce Page]

This is the first real piece of furniture that I have ever built, and while it isn't up to the amazing standards of most of you on the Creek, I must admit I am pleased with the results.


Warren,
Don’t sell yourself short, you’re hall desk is beautiful, worthy of any fine home!
If this is indeed you’re first piece of real furniture, (hard to believe) I can’t wait to see your next piece!

I was happy to be of some help, but the real credit belongs to you!

[Randy Ferguson]

Warren:

Great project!

Please post your finishing schedule.

Randy

[Bob Lasley]

Warren,

Very nice work! You should be very proud. And as far as using routers to cut dovetails, remember, this is a Power Tool forum. :)

So, what's next?

Bob

[Warren White]

I have really appreciated the comments on the desk. Thank you all! You have made my day (and weekend)!

Some have asked for the procedure I used in finishing the desk. First of all, the credit goes to a fellow Creek member Bruce Page of Albuquerque NM. As I indicated, he led me step by step through the process. All I did was follow his excellent instructions. To Bruce: I hope you don't mind, I have taken the liberty of quoting your instructions to me.

*****Quote:
The Zinsser Seal Coat is a wax-free 2 lb. cut shellac, product number 00854. I bought the 1-quart can from my local Woodcraft store. I also bought the Bartley products from Woodcraft.

The entire process is pretty simple but somewhat time consuming.

This is the exact procedure that I used on the cradle:

1. Thin the Seal Coat by mixing 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts Seal Coat as recommended on the can.
2. I applied a very light coat of Seal Coat using “Bounty” paper towels. The Bounty’s are pretty much lint free and work well.
3. After drying, I gave everything a light sanding using the gray synthetic sanding pads. (Scotch-Bright)
4. I then applied two coats of Bartley’s “Pennsylvania Cherry” gel stain per manufactures instructions, again using the Bounties as an applicator.
5. After the gel stain was dry, I applied three coats of Bartley’s “Clear Satin” wipe-on varnish per manufactures instructions, also using the Bounties as an applicator.
6. Lastly, I applied two coats of Moser’s paste wax.

One safety caution:

Make sure that you lay out all of the paper towels in a safe location to completely dry before putting them in the trash!
****End of Quote

The only variation in my procedure was that I don't have Moser's paste wax, so I used the Liberon I had on hand. It was applied sparingly with 0000 steel wool and buffed out with a car buffer where I could and with a soft cloth where that was best. In contrast to the instructions on the can, I didn't wait 15 to 30 minutes for the wax to dry; I found that if I did, the wax wouldn't buff out well. I put about three or four coats of wax on.

Again, thank you for your encouragement and kind words. Both mean a lot to a beginner.

Warren