Jointer and straight edge?

[Al Willits]

In my quest for a jointer, I see most will take a straight edge to make sure the beds are level, I figure the longer the better, but it seems a 48" Starrett is about the same price I paid for my first car....

Any recommendations on a decent straight edge and lenght that doesn't cost a lot of money?
I have no problem with buying good tools, but considering I'll use it maybe once a year, $200 seems like a bit much.

tia

Al

[Barry Beech]

Look at Lee Valley's web page for the 48" Straight edge.

[Allen Bookout]

I go along with Barry, I purchased the 50" aluminum one on this page and really think that it is great for the money.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50074&cat=1,240,45313

[Doug Shepard]

Stangely enough, HD also is carrying Starrett stuff (at least some of it) on their website. I'm not sure the stores are carrying it though. I picked an 18" Starrett S.E. back around Christmas when they were having their big hand tool discounts. Might be worth a try to see if they have any online sales going.
I also have a LV Aluminum S.E. that I've been real happy with. IIRC it's 40"

eBay also has quite a bit of Starrett/Brown&Sharp/Mitoyo/etc, if you can manage to find one in good shape and not get in a bidding war.

[Ralph Steffey]

A good as in not been droped 4 foot level is good enuf to set jointer tables this is woodworking not metal working.

[tod evans]

al, i just one fingered out my .02 here
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36702

tod

[Al Willits]

Thanks guys, to many years of metal working here...:)
Seems the 40-48" lenght is popular and I just bought a 4' level, may have to check if it has any specs on accucarcy.

Also the sites listed will help find something, I like Starrett, but they sure are proud of their stuff.

Now just to get a Jointer to use it on...:)

Al

[Kent Fitzgerald]

considering I'll use it maybe once a year, $200 seems like a bit much.


Actually, you may never need to use it.

Joint two boards. If the edges fit together without gaps, your jointer is doing its job and doesn't need any adjustment. As a bonus, you can now use one of the jointed edges you've just made as a straightedge to check other tools.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Mitutoyo, Fukuoka, SPI, are just fine.
Do you really need 48" ??
You can probably get along fine with a 12" machinist's adjustable square set. They are easy to use and infinitely useful. Again the brands above as well as the caddilacs: Starrett and Browning are all good.

[Al Willits]

""""""""
Do you really need 48" ??
""""""""""

Not sure, that's why I asked but, I'd think the longer the better for checking the beds??

The board thing sounds nice, but for $50 I can get a 48" one and I'll
feel a bit more comfortable with it.
I'm still much more comfortable with steel than wood.

I'll probably find a few other uses for it, and a good straight edge is alway nice...

Al

[Steven Wilson]

A good as in not been droped 4 foot level is good enuf to set jointer tables this is woodworking not metal working.
Only if you know your level is straight. I use my 4' and 7' (it use to be 8') Starrett straight edges as a reference surface and not day to day in the shop. The 4' was purchased for setting up guitars and basses (it has paid for itself) and the 7' use to be an 8' that was damaged in a friend of mine's machine shop and he cut off the damaged portion, made it true and gave it to me as a present. Anyhow, the LV one should be good enough for most things shop wise. Myself I have a couple of winding sticks and a level (that has been hand laped) that I frequently check against the Starrett's that I use for quickly checking the straightness of things. As for jointers, it's really nice to have a 4' or 6' reference surface to use for machine setup. Eventhough you're machining wood it's still a good idea to get your machines setup atleast one level better than the tightest tolerance you want to maintain. Jointers should be flat, especially in the area (say 1') around the cutting head.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Take three pieces of MDF, nine drywall screws and John White's book " Care and Repair of Shop Machines" by Taunton, and make your own "master bar". The book is less than $20. (This is the second time I have reccomended John's book tonite.) You can make them any length you need up to 96"