Blade height gage

[Nissim Avrahami]

Good day

Maybe you have seen something like that somewhere, I just made it my way and modified it by adding magnifying glass.

Sorry for the millimeters (1mm = 5/128” = 0.039”

I’m using it to set the table saw blade height and the router bit height (depth).

When you are setting the TS blade height, turn the blade (backward) to see the “peak” point.

If I want to be more precise, I’m using dedicated, modified micrometer (caliper) that can read 0.1mm = 1/256” = 0.004”, usually for tenons.

Regards
niki

[Steve Beadle]

Interesting, Nissim! Is the sliding part a friction fit? Also, I was wondering how well the gauge stands as you raise the saw blade or router bit to meet a pre-set height? When used on a steel or iron table, the gauge might benefit from a couple of rare-earth magnets on the bottom, I would think.

I really like the magnifying lens idea. The focus appears to be centered on the top of the round-head screw--right? So then you take your reading off the scale at the apex of the round head? Or maybe not--I see now that the magnifying glass is fixed and does not rise and fall with the height of the gauge setting.

After further study, I now realize that you take your reading not off the top of the screw, but from the horizontal piece next to the scale (duh!). You lock the horizontal piece by tightening the screw in the top of the dowel. Okay, I get it!!

Steve

[Nissim Avrahami]

Sorry Steve, the teacher is bad.

The dowel and the lower plate are one part (held with glue).
The dowel is free to move in a hole drilled in the frame.
The upper plate is pushed on the dowel, and after the “zero” adjustment you tight the screw which will expand the dowel (that’s the reason for the slot) and lock it.

I added some pictures, hope it will clear it.

niki

[Bruce Page]

That’s a very clever gage Nissim. Whenever I need to set my blade precisely I use a machine shop type height gage. Now if I could just figure out how to hook a magnifying glass to it!

[John Miliunas]

Nissim, you continue to impress me with your simple, yet very clever shop devices! :) So, tell us; Are you an engineer or similar? If so, I'm even more impressed, as most engineers tend to complicate designs! :D (JK guys...JK!!!) :D Well done, once again, Nissim! Keep 'em coming. (However, at this rate, the LOML will start to get upset with me when I'm spending all my time making shop helpers instead of house projects!!!):rolleyes: :cool:

[Bruce Wrenn]

Nice trick with the magnifing glass. Check out current issue of Shop Notes for one that uses HF $7.99 (on sale) plastic digital calipers. It is easy to make, and reads to .01 inch or .01 MM. I have made several for door prizes and gifts for friends. If making Shop Notes version, route recess for body of caliper first, then dado for slider and then cut to shape. Use hot glue to attach. Sorry, I don't have ability to do pictures.

[glenn bradley]

I also made one of the Shop Notes versions. So simple, so cheap. Works great. The resulting cut is right on when checked with a mic.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Thank you so much

John Miliunas
No, I’m not an engineer, I was 13 years an aircraft mechanic (B-707, B 747) and 23 years Flight-engineer.
As mechanic, I worked on American, English and French airplanes. At that time we had kind of joke:

“The Americans are saying – Lets make everything simple”,
“But the British are saying – Why to make it simple if you can make it complicated, my dear, ho ho”
“And the French are saying – Why to make it complicated if you can make it impossible, merd alor”

Bruce and Glenn
I don’t have the Shop Notes here in Poland but I made a dedicated caliper as in the picture. One day I will build it together with you in front of the cameras (yes, also the other one).

niki

[Rich Torino]

Nissim,
I'm really impressed with your creativity.. I like the idea of the magnifying glass....

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for contributing these great things, Nissim!

[Jim DeLaney]

I also made one of the Shop Notes versions. So simple, so cheap. Works great. The resulting cut is right on when checked with a mic.

I made one of those, too, but I modified mine a bit more. I made a plastic 'button', about ¾" in diameter, and pinned it to the end of the micrometer's shaft. It gives a bigger bearing surface for the blade contact.

I also shortened the other end of the shaft a bit, so that it doesn't protrude so much. You only need about 2½ ~ 3" for TS blade readings.

BTW, when I went to HF, they had those digital micrometers on sale for $5.97. Certainly cheap enough. Cheap or not, though, they're very accurate, as verified by my very expensive Mititoyo calipers.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Thank you all for the kind replies

Jim DeLaney
You cannot see it on the picture but the bases are wide enough.
I’m using it as double purpose micrometer, vertically, for the TS blade and router bit height and horizontally for positioning the router fence, I will share it with you all, one day.

niki

[Patrick Allen]

Try using a Mantis depth of cut gauge from Allen Designs LLC for precision cyutting. They work on jointers, routers, and table saws. http://allendesignsllc.com/Mantis%20images.htm

Patrick Allen

[Nissim Avrahami]

Thank you Patrick Allen

The problem is that I live in Poland and with the shipping, customs and VAT (22%) it will cost me around $150, and I'm only an amateur.
Please have a look at this post, I converted caliper to use it as height gage.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=37070

niki

[Byron Trantham]

Very clever. Thanks for sharing.

[Parker Nicholson]

I've been trying to find Norm Abram's guage and so far have had no luck. Need something fast, easy and accurate. Maybe I should just build one ;)

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Parker

Have a look at this post, its height gage with caliper
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=37070

niki