Wood moulding plane question

[Brad Schmid]

Can anybody point me to information on re-soling wood moulding planes? I need to resole a 5/16" beading plane and have never done this before. Any instruction, tips, tutorials, experience welcome.
Cheers

[Larry Browning]

Can anybody point me to information on re-soling wood moulding planes? I need to resole a 5/16" beading plane and have never done this before. Any instruction, tips, tutorials, experience welcome.
Cheers
I am always trying to learn new terminology and I really have no idea what you mean by re-soling a wood moulding plane. I thought re-soling was what you did to old shoes. What the H E double hockey sticks is re-soling a plane?

Or maybe I should just stay out of the Neanderthal Haven and not ask such stupid questions.

[Tyler Howell]

Do a search on Bob Smalser,
He has a number of great tutorials on on neander stuff. Haven't seen this spacific request but he might be able to help.

PS Larry
Same thing. Putting a fresh sole on the bottom of a plane.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Brad,

Do you have a picture of the plane? Even on a bead plane, I have seen moth and or boxing repairs, but not an enitre sole replaced. These planes do not typically cost much and are generally and widely available, so unless the plane has sentimental value or simply the repair interests you, consider just replaceing it.

But a picture would go a long way to helping repair it. As far as I know, there is no tutorial on doing this, but it is similar to the repair of any molding plane.

Take care, Mike

[Brad Schmid]

Thanks Mike,

I will be getting a picture of it to post tonight. More than anything, I want to see if I can do it, and learn something in the process;)

I admit I don't know the technical term for the piece I want to replace... It's the insert piece that's inset into the plane body that has the bead profile. The profile is worn down. I also need to replace the fence on one, but that looks pretty straight forward. Are these typically made of beech? what else is a good alternative? Lignum Vitae?

cheers

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Brad--pictures man, pictures <g>.

You have one of the best reasons to do it--you want to.

I'll be right back with a couple pictures...

[Brad Schmid]

I am always trying to learn new terminology and I really have no idea what you mean by re-soling a wood moulding plane. I thought re-soling was what you did to old shoes. What the H E double hockey sticks is re-soling a plane?

Or maybe I should just stay out of the Neanderthal Haven and not ask such stupid questions.

Larry,
I'm the one that's probably using the wrong terminology:rolleyes: See, I'm not afraid to ask stupid questions:D

Moth:confused: boxing:confused: I think Mike's about ready to give me an education. Did I mention, I love this place:D

[Mike Wenzloff]

Ok, here are two pictures of a bead plane. You can see the strip which defines one side of the bead--that is called boxing. It is generally a friction fit piece of boxwood. Larry Williams is using Persimmon on their beautiful planes I believe. Lignum Vitae has been used.

First the area at the mouth...

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/bead_plane_0001.jpg

And at the end, you can see how the boxing is inlet to the plane:

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/bead_plane_0002.jpg

If that is the piece you need to replace, here's a link to a thread on the Old Tools mail list which pertains.
http://www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswingle/archive/get.phtml?message_id=53278#message

Take care, Mike

[Brad Schmid]

Thanks Mike!
now I understand boxing. Now what's different on mine is that the boxing encompasses not only that middle strip, but the whole bead profile. (The middle 1/3 of the plane). That middle strip is what's worn down and needs repaired. If I remember correctly, it's only the section ahead of the mouth that's badly worn. I read the Old Tools thread you posted, and that gives me a better understanding too. As soon as I get home tonight, I'll try and take some good pics and post them and maybe you could give me your advice on what you think the best approach would be.

Thanks again!

[Mike Wenzloff]

You're welcome, Brad.

As I am very late getting into the shop today--and the indians are restless and awaiting their chief. I may overlook your response and pictures, so feel free to email me and remind me to look at the thread if it appears I've dissapeared <g>.

Take care, Mike

[Brad Schmid]

Ok, here's some pics. what do you think?
By the way, I do have some French Boxwood that I plan to use for the repair. Hopefully that will suffice?

[Steve Wargo]

That's a pretty easy fix. Simply tap out the old boxing, and make a new one. I use Turkish Boxwood, but I imagine that French will work fine (though I'm not familiar with it). If you need help creating a profile use a portion of the boxing that is in good shape and make a nice crosscut in it. Then trace the profile onto the edge of the boxwood and piece of steel (as in a scraper). Then shape it rough with power/hand tools and finish the profile with the scraper. Please make sure that you create a longer piece than you really need. Easier to pick more perfectly matched profiled sections from a longer piece. Boxwood is a pain in the @$$ to work with. Also, from experience, create your scraper to work in a scratch stock with a 90 degree fence makes it much easier to get that profile constant. Good luck. E-mail if you've got any questions.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Yeah--wot Steve said...

Do tap carefully. Some of the boxing like what you see on yours has been hide glued in. Usually not much, a few dabs or thin, thin coat. But over so many years it is generally crystalized and will break free.

Just tap gently and gradually increase the force until it begins to move.

Oh. Also. Do remove the iron. Seems dumb to mention. But trust me, when one is moving faster than the brain can handle it's easy to forget. Not that I've done that...

Take care, Mike

[Alan Turner]

I am sure it is a testament to my inexperience with molding planes, but I have not seen a boxwood insert of that size before. Interesting.

[Brad Schmid]

Steve/Mike,
Thanks guys, great stuff.

couple more questions:

1) when I tap out the boxing, do I just put a narrow sacrificial block of wood on the end and tap on it length wise? Seems like I would have problems doing it that way because of the gap at the mouth. Maybe tap on it on an angle and drive it out the bottom?

2) when you have time, could you post an example of a scratch stock you use to do something similar?

3) Steve - where would one buy Turkish Boxwood?

By the way, I have another moulding plane where the side fence was split off and then nailed back on. I repaired it tonight and really enjoyed the process. I much prefer working with these as opposed to fettling an iron plane. I only thought the iron planes were addictive, these old moulding planes are even worse:D And when their back in useable shape, they are absolutely a blast to use:cool: I think I was born a hundred years too late:)

[Steve Wargo]

I'll try to snap a picture of my scratch stock system later.

[Michael Morin dit Boucher]

Brad,

Steve Wargo has given you some excellent advice on how to replace...if boxwood becomes a pain to work with try Osage Orange (Maclura pomifera). I am a forester and I've used it on the sole of flat bottom planes that I have made. Its very durable and is workable...I would use the heartwood which is darker in color.

Great topic...let us all know what you did and how it comes out...complete with pics. I have a couple that need the same thing so I am curious as to your methodology.

You are in the right place to ask...this group represents some awesome talent and engineering prowess.:cool: