problem sharpening my V-carving tool

[Brian Knop]

I have a Pfeil #15 V-carving tool. I am trying to cut some V’s with it but the tip seems dull. It would appear that this V tool might not really be the right tool for cutting a V, as that the bottom dose not comes to a true point. But how do you get the point sharp and keep the edges straight? As is, it’s worthless. I have a honing tool but it won’t fit into it. I could use a few tips! I am trying to carve a fan on to a drawer front, just practicing on a pieice of popular right now.

Thanks Brian

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Brian, lot's of information on the web--and a search of SMC will turn up other recommendations.

I most often point people to Chris Pye's site. He has free e-Books on a variety of subjects. The link goes to the one for sharpening V tools.

Do note he requests you make a donation to the charity of your choosing in exchange for the book.

http://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/slipstones/v1.html

Take care, Mike

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Brian, there are two views on which tools to use to carve Vs. Chris Pye says you can't use a V tool to do this as it won't leave a sharp, crisp V. He says that you should use opposing cuts of a straight chisel to make straight Vs and a gouge of the appropriate size and radius for curved Vs. There is a woman (can't remember her name) who says you can use a V tool to make Vs. In my experience, Chris' method is easier to master and I use his method for carving signs. The bottom of the V is sharp and crisp and doesn't leave torn fibers like the V tool does in my hand.

[Mike Henderson]

I have carved some shells and used the V tool to make V shaped cuts. See here (http://members.cox.net/h-h.woodworks/Townsend%20chest.htm) about half way down the page.

Note that the V tool is not sharpened to a sharp V at the bottom. The sides are sharpened and the bottom of the V is rounded somewhat because when you make the cut, the tool is at an angle. To control the cut, you need a bevel to be rubbing on the wood - otherwise, the tool will "dive" deeper into the wood.

The V tool is one of the most difficult carving tools to sharpen properly, and is best learned from someone who can show you in person what to do (I'm sorry that I cannot really adequately describe here how to do it).

If that's not an option, try some of the links given by the earlier posters. BTW, the woman carver that Dennis was trying to think of might be Nora Hall.

Mike

[Ray Mighells]

I have many sizes and degrees of "V" parting tools, and prefer a true V cut. This is a tricky tool to sharpen as it is easy to over sharpen one wing resulting in a hook edge. Just be careful to keep the wings evenly beveled. Honing the inside is even trickier. You can use a buffing wheel with polishing compound if you're careful or you can use folded wet and dry sandpaper 600 to 1200 grit or finer to refine the inside edge. This is a very versitle tool but you have to learn it's limits in a cut. In carving a curve one wing will always be cutting against the grain so discretion must be exercised. Practise makes perfect and you'll learn quickly from your mistakes. You never want to try carving with a V tool that is not sharp.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

That's her Mike. She and Chris Pye have very different ideas when it comes to letter carving.

[John Timberlake]

Personally, I would find someone who REALLY knows how to sharpen and pay them. Then keep it sharp by hone it regularly. I have Swiss V-tool that I bought about 1976 and have kept it sharp and in shape through a number of projects. Too hard to get the sides straight and that bottom curved just right.

[Carl Eyman]

On the one true shell that I've done I used a #11 to lay out the flutes, then a "V" about 1/8" on a side to deepen them a little, and then a back bent gouge #25-10 to shape the flutes. If you go to www.eyman.org/furniture, and look at the china cabinet you can see the results. Sharpenning that #11 is tricky. When I got it wrong, I just did it agin until it worked.

[tod evans]

brian, if you`re starting with a new tool? i`ve had to regrind the heal on every new v tool i`ve bought in order to make it behave for the way i carve. unfortunately this really isn`t something easy to discribe in print...but i`ll try, at the v where the two edges come together you`ll notice it`s rounded on the backside(where the bevels meet) on most chisels this will be at a fairly steep angle. i`ll grind that bevel back to almost double the angle of a new chisel. if you do this only use hand pressure to drive the chisel, no mallet blows! ..02 tod

[Frank Fusco]

I once belonged to a local woodcarving club and had the same problem with the V tool. One of my V tools I let 'expert' members sharpen numerous times. None ever got it sharp. Puzzling because some of these are really master carvers. One travels the country and sells his carvings for thousands. He is so masterful that he no longer enters competitions because, if he does, no one else has a chance to win. That said, even he did nothing more than take metal off the end and leave me with a less than sharp V tool. Some rounded, some hooked, some angled, some did other strange stuff. But none ever got it sharp. I know there are those who will say I'm nuts :eek: but BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE, a V tool cannot be sharpened. Anyone want to prove me wrong? I'll be happy to mail you the tool in question and let you prove me wrong.

[tod evans]

I once belonged to a local woodcarving club and had the same problem with the V tool. One of my V tools I let 'expert' members sharpen numerous times. None ever got it sharp. Puzzling because some of these are really master carvers. One travels the country and sells his carvings for thousands. He is so masterful that he no longer enters competitions because, if he does, no one else has a chance to win. That said, even he did nothing more than take metal off the end and leave me with a less than sharp V tool. Some rounded, some hooked, some angled, some did other strange stuff. But none ever got it sharp. I know there are those who will say I'm nuts :eek: but BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE, a V tool cannot be sharpened. Anyone want to prove me wrong? I'll be happy to mail you the tool in question and let you prove me wrong.

frank, stop by and use mine. or i can show you how i sharpen? as for your tool if it`s good steel it can be sharpened, even cheap steel can be sharpened but it won`t stay sharp very long...02 tod

[Frank Fusco]

frank, stop by and use mine. or i can show you how i sharpen? as for your tool if it`s good steel it can be sharpened, even cheap steel can be sharpened but it won`t stay sharp very long...02 tod

Hi Todd, I need an excuse to stop by. I bought it years ago from one of the popular woodcarving catalogs. Says "Dastra" Germany on the tool. I believe it is a good quality item. Been setting so long it had rust. I wire brushed an sprayed with rust preventative just now.

[tod evans]

dastra is good steel, a little more dificult to sharpen than pfiel or henry taylor chisels, really close to the two cherries i use. shouldn`t be a problem. tod

[Daniel Heine]

Hello,

When I sharpen my V-tools, I start by hoing the two wings, then you sharpen the bottom just like a small gouge. If you are interested in having someone sharpen it for you, Rick at http://www.littleshavers.com does a fantastic job for $3.00 each. I sent him a set of 8 two cherries tools I bought on ebay very cheap. They were ground in-cannel, and were a complete mess. 4 days and $24.00 later, I had 8 tools that looked like new, and cut like a dream.

Good Luck,
Dan Heine

[tod evans]

franks chisels now cut well, free.....02 tod

[Frank Fusco]

franks chisels now cut well, free.....02 tod

I posted a Thankee elsewhere on SC. No harm again here. Thanks Tod. Yes, he did it. Actually, I brought the small one to him expecting to get a laugh out of another failed attempt. The small V tool has been 'expertly sharpened' by a dozen other people with less than satisfactory result. Tod did it quickly and, as he says, they now cut well.