Wet sanding Waterlox?

[Tim Solley]

Okay, so I have a question for the finishing experts here. I'm finishing an ottoman using Waterlox Original Finish/Sealer. I'm just about to spray on the final coat, and I was thinking of wet sanding it before I do to knock down any dust nibs. I've never wet sanded before, and I'm not even sure if that's the best way to go. Maybe someone here can guide me. If I do wet sand, should I use the thinner, or will that dissolve the finish? It says to clean up with mineral spirits, so would I use that to wet sand it?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Tim

[Al Navas]

... I'm just about to spray on the final coat, and I was thinking of wet sanding it before I do to knock down any dust nibs. I've never wet sanded before, and I'm not even sure if that's the best way to go. ...
Tim,

There is no need to wet sand Waterlox. I suggest that you sand with 400 grit after your final base coat and before applying the topcoat (allow 24 hours before sanding).

Will you be using the Waterlox Original Finish/Sealer as the final coat, or will you apply satin? If using satin, apply only one coat, as multiple coats will give the finish a cloudy appearance. Let the piece stand several days to allow the finish to harden.

I am curious. What are you using to spray Waterlox? I have always applied it with a good quality foam brush - it is an almost bulletproof way of applying Waterlox.


Al

[Tim Solley]

Tim,

There is no need to wet sand Waterlox. I suggest that you sand with 400 grit after your final base coat and before applying the topcoat (allow 24 hours before sanding).

Will you be using the Waterlox Original Finish/Sealer as the final coat, or will you apply satin? If using satin, apply only one coat, as multiple coats will give the finish a cloudy appearance. Let the piece stand several days to allow the finish to harden.

I am curious. What are you using to spray Waterlox? I have always applied it with a good quality foam brush - it is an almost bulletproof way of applying Waterlox.


Al

Al, thanks for the information. Yes, I'm using the Waterlox as the final coat. I used a Behlen Solar Lux dye as the stain, followed by a coat of BLO. Then several coats of Waterlox.

I applied the Waterlox on my last piece with a foam brush and I was indeed happy with it. However, I felt I could have maybe done better with a sprayer, so I'm trying it. This is my first project with a sprayer. I'm using the Harbor Freight turbine HVLP system. It works great! It does indeed do a better job than I did with a foam brush.

Tim

[tod evans]

tim, what is waterlox? is it some type of oil or an oil poly mix? i`ve never used it and am curious. tod

[Alan Turner]

Tim,
I sometimes do wet sand Waterlox Original just before the final coat. I generally use either mineral spirits, or slightly soapy water, and 400 or 600 grit wet/dry paper. Waterlox is an oil varnish mixture which cures reactively (exposure to oxygen), and therefore mineral spirits will not "melt" it like will happen with an evaporative finish such as shellac or lacquer.
I have never heard of spraying an oil varnish mixture. I occassionally use a brush, but more often I use a lint free rag, sewn to hide any raveling end cuts.
After the final coat, I often rub it out with 4/0 Liberon steel wool to remove the final dust nibs, and then wax it to the sheen I want. Waterlox Original is a satin finish product. Regualr Waterlox, in the green can, seems to be a high sheen varnish oil which has an even higher solids content, from what I have read, but I have never tried it.

Let us know more about the spraying process. I wonder if the gun will be a bear to clean. Good luck.

[Tim Solley]

Alan, thanks for the reply. Looks like you also answered Tod's question. I really like Waterlox for the warm color it gives to the wood and for the grain pop that it seems to give. I used BLO after dying, which brought out the grain. But one thing I noticed is that after the second coat of Waterlox, suddenly the grain really popped out. The first didn't do that. I thought that was strange.

Anyway, Waterlox goes on like a dream with a spray gun. Cleans up in a flash too. I just dump out the Waterlox, soak up any excess in the cup with a rag and put some mineral spirits in it and shake it around. Dump that out and put a little fresh mineral spirits in. Then I spray that through the gun into a paint can and disassemble and wipe down all the parts. That's it.

I'm curious, the "Liberon" part of the steel wool, is that the brand or a type of steel wool? I have some 0000 wool from Home Depot, is that different?

Thanks,

Tim

[Alan Turner]

Liberon is a brand of steel wool that is oilless. Jeff Jewitt, and others, carry it. It is used only for fine finishing, to my knowledge. It is a bit more expensive, but worth it to me. I think it is finer than the standard 4/0, but I can't document that. It comes in a large roll, not pads, and so you cut off what you need and fold it in thirds. I don't use it to clean up machinery, just for finishing.

[Tim Solley]

Alan, thanks for the info. One last question. What kind of wax do you use on top of the Waterlox after using the steel wool?

Tim