Shop made Overarm Blade Guard and DC

[Mike Leonard]

I have been looking at Overarm Blade Guards in preparation for a new Cabinet saw that I will be buying in the very near future. I found an article on a shop made Overarm Blade Guard by Gordon J. Sampson. Has anyone here built this or seen it used? It looks simple enough and looks like it could do the job.


http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml

[Dan Barber]

Gordon put his plans on-line about the same time I was building mine. His is a fine design, mine might give you some more ideas.

http://www.woodisourart.com/tablesaw/images/DSC00031.jpg

You can take a look at it here:

Overam Blade Guard with Dust Collection (http://www.woodisourart.com/tablesaw/bladecover.htm)

Cost is not too high if you look around for materials. My design also incorporates a shelf for a portable planer - gets it out of the way - but puts it in a position where it can be readily used. If I only have a few pieces to surface, I'll walk around the saw to catch them on the out feed. If i have a lot to do, I get my son or SWMBO to help out.

Take a look and let me know what you think.

Cheers,

Dan

[Don Abele]

Dan, I am in the planning phase for an over-arm guard. I've compiled a lot of "examples" of them and yours is most certainly unique. I love the warning label on the arm (of your own creation?).

A question though - it appears that the arm is a single 3-4" metal pipe? Most of the other designs I've seen have the ability to slide the guard back and forth, not only for adjustment but to move it completely out of the way. I can see how you can make lateral adjustments, but am curious as to how you would move it if you needed to cut a tall piece of wood (like raising panels on edge)?

Be well,

Doc

[Dan Barber]

Dan, I am in the planning phase for an over-arm guard. I've compiled a lot of "examples" of them and yours is most certainly unique. I love the warning label on the arm (of your own creation?).

A question though - it appears that the arm is a single 3-4" metal pipe? Most of the other designs I've seen have the ability to slide the guard back and forth, not only for adjustment but to move it completely out of the way. I can see how you can make lateral adjustments, but am curious as to how you would move it if you needed to cut a tall piece of wood (like raising panels on edge)?

Be well,

Doc


Don,

If you look at the following picture, you'll see that the mounts that hold the tube are split and have knobs for tightening the mounts around the tube. If you need to slide the support tube out of the way, you simply loosen the two knobs and slide it to the desired position. Re-positioning is just the reverse.

In my situation, I hooked this support tube to a metal duct system and as such I gave up the ability to make this type of adjustment. For the rare times I need to use the table saw for an operation where the guard support is in the way - I just remove it entirely.

http://www.woodisourart.com/tablesaw/images/Mountdetails.jpg

I'd like to claim the credit for the warning label, but I can't. It was something I saw in a factory once - it just kind of seemed applicable for the table saw.

Dan

[Dale Critchlow]

Mike: I built a system based on Sampson's article. I made a few changes (improvements?).

1. I mounted the guard support on on the left rear corner of a 10" left tilt cabinet saw. This allows ripping a 15" wide piece and crosscutting to 20". This means I have to remove it occasionally, maybe once every month or so, when I am cutting a larger piece.

2. Since it is mounted on the left corner, the framework can be lightweight. I used three sizes of square tubing. A short piece fastened vertically to the table saw. An inverted L shaped 1 1/4" piece which fits into the 1 1/2" piece with horizonal part of the L about 20" above the table top. A 1" tubing which holds the guard assembly (much like Sampson's) slides horizontally into the 1 1/4" piece. The total weight is about 14 pounds. The L shaped piece weighs about 6 1/2 pounds and the blade guard assembly with the 1" tubing weighs about 7 1/2 pounds.

3. I brought the dust collector hose from the ceiling. It rests on the top of the horizonal portion of the inverted L. I experimented with 3" and 4" hose and found that 4" was much more effective. I find this arrangement is very handy for cleaning the saw dust from the table top. I use a PSI 4" slip hose fitting and simply unplug the hose from the blade guard to clean up and then plug it back in.

4. I designed the blade guard so it can be raised higher than is possible with Sampson's design. This allows it to be raised out of the way.

I have been using it for over a year and am very happy with it.

My only qualification is that the wide blade guard makes using a push stick a little tricky. You have to use a longer pusher when ripping narrow pieces. Also, it is more difficult to get access to the top of the work to hold it down.

I do have a description of it with photos which I could email to you if you are intereseted.

Dale

[Mike Leonard]

Dan,

Looks good. I like the way you incorporated the planer. I will be buying the JET with the router lift package so the horizonal setup may be a problem. What I liked about Sampson's design is that it is ceiling mounted. I think I will also add in dust collection for the router.


Dale,

I would like to see the photos of your set up, so please send them to me. I am looking at all modifications and ideas others have done before I decide on just what I'm going to do.



Dan and Dale: Is the blade guard able to float on either of your set ups or is it strictly fixed in position?

[Jim Rahbe]

Dan,

"I will be buying the JET with the router lift package...."

Mike,

I purchased the Jet table saw with the “free” router lift package just about a year ago. The saw is everything I could have hoped for, but the lift does not come up to the same standard. Basically, it is their old design. With this design, the router mounts to a plate and the plate is raised or lowered. The problem is that it is impossible to raise the router high enough to change the bit from the top of the table, and awkward to change the bit from under the table. The newer designed unit is more like a large clamp or “jaw” that holds the router in the middle so that the bits can be raised much higher while still in the table, make changing bits very easy.

That said, the cost of the saw was the same with or without the lift kit, and the router, so if I had to do it again, I’d do the same think all over again. There is a home-brew modification that can be done to the lift to make it function like the newer designs, but so far I’ve been too lazy to modify it.

Jim R.

[Dan Barber]

Dan and Dale: Is the blade guard able to float on either of your set ups or is it strictly fixed in position?

Mike,

My design is intended to float, however with a small change in fastener selection it could lock.

I decided not to use the ceiling mounted design as my garage door (when opened) would interfere with it's location. Also if I ever want to relocate the saw, the guard goes with it without requiring remounting the guard to another point on the ceiling.

Dan

[Mike Leonard]

Jim,

Glad that you are pleased with the JET. It is always nice to hear good things about a major piece of equipment about to be bought. So, the current JET router lift package has the newer/better design?


Dan,

Having not used an overarm blade guard I am not sure which I prefer. But, I think that floating would be better. It's nice to know that with a simple fastener change either option would be possible. I see in your pictures that you have the JET TS. Are you happy with it?

Mike

[Mike Schwing]

[QUOTE=Mike Leonard]Dan,

"I will be buying the JET with the router lift package...."

Mike,

I purchased the Jet table saw with the “free” router lift package just about a year ago. The saw is everything I could have hoped for, but the lift does not come up to the same standard. Basically, it is their old design. With this design, the router mounts to a plate and the plate is raised or lowered. The problem is that it is impossible to raise the router high enough to change the bit from the top of the table, and awkward to change the bit from under the table. The newer designed unit is more like a large clamp or “jaw” that holds the router in the middle so that the bits can be raised much higher while still in the table, make changing bits very easy.

That said, the cost of the saw was the same with or without the lift kit, and the router, so if I had to do it again, I’d do the same think all over again. There is a home-brew modification that can be done to the lift to make it function like the newer designs, but so far I’ve been too lazy to modify it.

Jim R.

Jim, I have the same package - and saw that Woodcraft sells an adapter plate that allows for through the table/top router bit changes. I also saw a guy on WC that made his own out of a couple of plywood sandwiches. I too am frequently annoyed by this feature and have simply adjusted to removing the router from the base for bit changes. I plan, however, on either making or buying that adapter.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, I have the same package - and saw that Woodcraft sells an adapter plate that allows for through the table/top router bit changes. I also saw a guy on WC that made his own out of a couple of plywood sandwiches. I too am frequently annoyed by this feature and have simply adjusted to removing the router from the base for bit changes. I plan, however, on either making or buying that adapter.

My solution new for the Rout-R-Lift bit changing thing is the bent wrenches from Woodpeckers (http://www.woodpeck.com/offsetwrenches.html) . They are only about $22 for two of them and work like a charm. I was doing panel, rail and stile milling yesterday and in the process made several cutter changes. This was the first time I got to use the new wrenches since buying them and I have to say it was a good investment. (They have sizes to fit almost any router)

[Jim Rahbe]

Thanks Jim,

I actually looked for bent wrenches and had no luck finding them. I just ordered a set and I'm sure this will make all the difference in the world. Thanks again for pointing me to the right vendor...

[Jim Rahbe]

"So, the current JET router lift package has the newer/better design?"


Mike,

I do not know, but "suspect" all the router lifts Jet is including with their package are older design. I assume this is just a way to get rid of a poorly designed product that they had not been able to sell.

With the bent wrenches (See Jim B's post) I think that my biggest problem with this design will be overcome. The unit itself seems to operate fine.

[Christian Aufreiter]

Hi Dan,

I saw that you used acrylglass for the saw blade cover and screwed it together. Do you need a special type of screw for this material?

Thanks!

Christian

[Jim Becker]

[QUOTE=Jim RahbeI do not know, but "suspect" all the router lifts Jet is including with their package are older design. I assume this is just a way to get rid of a poorly designed product that they had not been able to sell.[/QUOTE]

Not exactly. The Rout-R-Lift included in the kit is stilil a current product from JessEm...Jet's offering is just a different color as it the PM and Rockler versions. I have the "original" black version in my table. That being said, the Mast-R-Lift from JessEm, PRL from Woodpeckers and the Benchdog (the one I "covet") all were released after the Rout-R-Lift had been on the market for a bit. The one big differentiation of those lifts from the Rout-R-Lift is in physical size...they are all smaller and take up less room.

[Dan Barber]

Hi Dan,

I saw that you used acrylglass for the saw blade cover and screwed it together. Do you need a special type of screw for this material?

Thanks!

Christian

Hi Christan,

Actually it's Lexan - a polycarbonate material made by GE that is common in the industrial world. As far as the fasteners are concerned - nothing special is required - just drill and tap like you would metal. It's not a particularly strong mechanical connection, but in this case it should work fine.

Dan

[Christian Aufreiter]

Hi Christan,

Actually it's Lexan - a polycarbonate material made by GE that is common in the industrial world. As far as the fasteners are concerned - nothing special is required - just drill and tap like you would metal. It's not a particularly strong mechanical connection, but in this case it should work fine.

Dan

Hi Dan,

thanks for your response!
Does that mean you used screws for metal with UNF/witworth/metric threads?

Regards,

Christian

[Jim Becker]

Actually it's Lexan - a polycarbonate material made by GE that is common in the industrial world. As far as the fasteners are concerned - nothing special is required - just drill and tap like you would metal. It's not a particularly strong mechanical connection, but in this case it should work fine.

You can also use a solvent designed for joining these materials for a fastener-free joint if you prefer. I used that method for the replacement hood shown below for the UniGuard I used to have on my saw as well as the hood for my bandsaw. Since the solvent welds the material together...it takes an awful lot of force to break it apart. Any plastics supplier will have it. Just check your yellow pages. Do take precautions when working with the solvent, however. A respirator, gloves and good ventilation are absolutely necessary.

[Jerry Crawford]

Dan, I'd be interested in your planer set up. Do you use the planer on that pedestle or do you lift it down onto the TS extension? I was contemplating that kind of arrangement for my Delta 12" but the thing cranks so hard I'd be afraid I'd jerk it off the platform.

[Dan Barber]

Hi Dan,

thanks for your response!
Does that mean you used screws for metal with UNF/witworth/metric threads?

Regards,

Christian

Christan,

If I recall correctly the screws in question were a 10-32 thread, close to a 4mm if my conversion faculties are working today. The material can be drilled and tapped with tolls used for metal. As Jim mentioned it can be solvent welded as well - this is not a gluing process, but a solvent that melts the material together.

Dan

[Dan Barber]

Dan, I'd be interested in your planer set up. Do you use the planer on that pedestle or do you lift it down onto the TS extension? I was contemplating that kind of arrangement for my Delta 12" but the thing cranks so hard I'd be afraid I'd jerk it off the platform.

Jerry,

The planer is left in place on the shelf for use. It is a good location for something that is otherwise always in the way. I don't have any problems using it in that location - if your thickness adjustment is that hard to operate, I'd suggest some cleaning and lubrication might be in order. Just be sure to use a dry lubricant so that it does not attract sawdust that will gum up the adjustment mechanism down the road. A dry teflon lube would work great for this application.

Dan

[Christian Aufreiter]

Christan,

If I recall correctly the screws in question were a 10-32 thread, close to a 4mm if my conversion faculties are working today. The material can be drilled and tapped with tolls used for metal. As Jim mentioned it can be solvent welded as well - this is not a gluing process, but a solvent that melts the material together.

Dan

Thanks, Dan!

Regards,

Christian