Jana's Table finally assembled!

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Well, I finally got around to getting the table built. I built the top in December, but due to feared movement issues I waited a few months to get the rest done. All joinery is via biscuits on the top and dowels for the legset.
The top is Quarter Sawn Big Leaf Maple surrounded by Walnut and Bloodwood. The legset is Walnut and the feet are Maple.
If anyone has a good idea of how to finish this table keeping looks and durability in mind, let me know what you would do, I am very open to suggestions. I want to pop the grain up top and show off the patterns in the BL Maple and Walnut. The LOML will need it to be durable and able to stand up to many Pepsi one ringS! :shock:
http://www.hannawoodworks.com/Janastable03.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/Janastable4.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/Janastable5.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/Janastable6.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/Janastable7.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/Janastable8.jpg

http://www.hannawoodworks.com/Janastable9.jpg

[Rick Doyle]

hi kelly,

great job on the table! i really like the combination of woods and colors. it sure looks to be sturdy enough to handle anything.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Nice table, Kelly. As ignorant as I am about finishing, I'll leave it to others who know more than me to suggest the final clear coat, but I know if it was my table, I'd start with BLO just because I'd simply have to see that maple grain come alive. I think BLO would make all the different woods really talk to each other nicely.

- Vaughn

[Jim Becker]

Sure does look better now than that pile of parts I saw during my visit! :D :D :D

Seriously, nice job. For the finish...an application of BLO allowed to soak in for about 30-45 minutes and wiped off. After a few days, a coat of de-waxed shellac to seal and add clarity. Finish with shellac and/or a varnish of your choice, non-poly would be my choice. I hate the look of poly...

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Nice looking project Kelly. I can't wait to see some finish on it ....to pop the grain and enhance the contrast between those woods!

[Maurice Ungaro]

Kelly,
The April FWW had an article about oil/varnish finsihes, and whether the oil treatment prior to varnish obscures figure/ Seemed to make a difference on the walnut & maple samples.

Have you thought about tung oil?

[Pete Harbin]

Oooo! That's going to look good finished. Good thing we have lots of finishing hot shots here to help! :D (not me...:rolleyes: )

Pete

[Jim Becker]

Have you thought about tung oil?

You will be hard pressed to see any difference between BLO and tung oil (the real stuff) outside of the higher price and longer cure time of the latter, especially under another finish.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I have been so busy I hadn't even thought of the finish until I got it assembled. I knew a few of you would have suggestions. I think BLO is the way to go after weighing the options. I want the grain to pop eyes out! :eek: :eek:

Thanks for the kind words everyone. This has been a fun project so far.

[Alan DuBoff]

Kelly,

Nice looking table.

I'm no finish expert, but I do love BLO. I just wanted to ask a couple things in regard to it.

1) there was a write-in to Woodworker's Journal mag and one of the readers asked about raw vs. boiled, linseed. The editor (I believe) gave a very good answer. I don't have the mag here, but for anyone not knowing (not implying you Kelly;-), BLO (i.e., boiled linseed oil) has dryers contained. The reply didn't give a reason it's referred to as "boiled", but has a plausible reason how it could have derived having to do with bubbles rising to the surface in the process of adding the dryers. Although I use it several ways, one is with some minwax poly and some mineral spirits, makes a great wipe on finish. But I've been playing with thin BLO, then shellac after.

The first thing I was wondering is that I typically use straight BLO, and let it dry, and yeah, it can take a while (even in the boiled form;-). I can also get dryers and have read that folks do add dryers to BLO. Can someone explain how the dryers effect the color or drying process, and how you come up with a balance of BLO vs dryers. Also, if there is any advantage of buying raw linseed and adding the dryers yourself?

2) Like many folks, I love how BLO makes the grain jump. It is however one of the main causes of spontaneous combustion in residential structures. I just read about a home that caught fire due to spontaneous combustion. With summer coming on, I just wanted to remind folks, *** BE CAREFUL ***. I think it's always good to remind one of the dangers of working in the shop, and BLO (and related products). This is a real concern for all, families of woodworkers included.

I like to lay any clothes used out in the driveway, where I have a large open area. I've been known to lay things out at the curb until trash day, even if they caught fire they would most likely not cause a problem. They they've had time to dry I put them in a zip-loc and sprinkle some water in it and seal it.

Not sure if the water helps, someone mentioned it was good. They seem to get stiff after they do finally dry. I was curious if anyone knew if it was best to keep it dry, once it had dried naturally?

And lastly, in regards to this, is it the dryers that cause the combustion? If so, is the danger zone only until the dryers are gone? Raw linseed oil doesn't have the problem, I don't think, or does it? That's basically flaxseed oil.