Festool OF1400 Router Fix

[Dave Falkenstein]

I have read some threads about the Festool OF1400 router being less than stable when used on the guide rails. As many know, the OF1400 employs a "footie" to make the router level when used on the rails. This footie is a major contributor to the complaints about instability.

I came up with a really simple idea to solve the problem. See the attached photos. I made a secondary base plate that attaches to the bottom of the OF1400 when used on the rails. I made the base plate from a piece of 1/4" hardboard with Formica laminated to both sides. The resulting thickness is .20", just right to level the router on the rails.

The first photo shows the router on the rail with the footie installed. Note the gap under the router. The second photo is the secondary base plate I made. The third photo shows the secondary base plate mounted onto the router using two threaded holes that already exist in the router base. The countersunk bolts were purchased at Ace. The fourth photo shows the router on the rail with the secondary base plate installed.

[Bob Marino]

I have read some threads about the Festool OF1400 router being lees than stable when used on the guide rails. As many know, the OF1400 employs a "footie" to make the routewr level when used on the rails. This footie is a major contributor to the complaints about instability.

I came up with a really simple idea to solve the problem. See the attached photos. I made a secondary base plate that attaches to the bottom of the OF1400 when used on the rails. I made the base plate from a piece of 1/4" hardboard with Formica laminated to both sides. The resulting thickness is .20", just right to level the router on the rails.

David,

Very nice!

Bob

[Frank Pellow]

I don't really mind using the "footie", but for those that do, this looks like a good solution to the problem, Dave.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for the great idea, Dave!

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I wonder how the folks at FesterTool would respond if you told 'em about this.

Hmmmmm Just thinking about how they came across to me at a show.

[Martin Shupe]

Maybe Bob should send this in as a product suggestion...

Or perhaps Pat Warner could sell them...for those of us who are too lazy to make one ourselves.:D

[Bob Marino]

Maybe Bob should send this in as a product suggestion...

Or perhaps Pat Warner could sell them...for those of us who are too lazy to make one ourselves.:D

Martin,

I sent the link to the CEO of Festool last night, who liked it so much and is forwarding the suggestion to Festool Germany.

Bob

[Rick Christopherson]

Where is this word "Footie" coming from? I've seen it mentioned a couple of times recently and it gives me the "heebie-jeebies." :) It isn't used in the original manual, and you certainly won't find it in my manual. It is an outrigger, or leveling outrigger.

[Martin Shupe]

Martin,

I sent the link to the CEO of Festool last night, who liked it so much and is forwarding the suggestion to Festool Germany.

Bob

Good job, Bob, on top of things, as usual.

[Bill Stoffels]

I applaud you on your modification
Its toooo bad that you have to adapt a $400 router and the $100 guide Festool should be embarressed

I still have a problem with the Pricing??
I know Buy it or shut up !!!!
Just a comment

[JayStPeter]

Dave,
That's a good idea. Maybe there's hope for this rail guide yet. I've been looking at the microfence adapter that adds an offset into the rails to let the router base ride flat on the piece. But, some stuff out of my scrap bin is definitely cheaper. :)


Rick,
I think "footie" is the perfect name for it. :cool: It has the correct connotation of instability.

Jay

[Steven J Corpstein]

I tend to place the guide rail close enough to the target such that the router base rides on it. That along with the 'Footie' makes for a very stable rout.

[Dave Falkenstein]

...I made the base plate from a piece of 1/4" hardboard with Formica laminated to both sides. The resulting thickness is .20", just right to level the router on the rails...

Correction - The hardboard is 1/8", not 1/4". Oops.