Fridge cabinet input please

[Jeff Monson]

Well I'm down to 2 cabinets left on my project, an island and my fridge end panel and cabinet, I'm doing a raised panel fridge end panel with a cabinet over the fridge also, it's 94" tall and I originally wanted to go 34" deep but now I'm thinking 34" is too deep.

The fridge is 35" deep total and 28.5" without the doors. I'm assuming the normal is to leave the doors exposed past the end panel correct? So should I be looking at a 30" depth, or what do most of you cabinet makers make the depth of this cabinet???

[Maurice Ungaro]

Go for as much depth as you can get. You will appreciate the storage that it affords.

[Steve Clardy]

I only make them around 20" deep. The upper cab. Frig sides are 30-32".
No sense in making it full depth. Don't have to use a step ladder to access the back of the cabinet that way.
This leaves a space behing the cab for frig. air circulation that way.

[Craig Feuerzeig]

Industry standard is 24", so they can get 2 rips out of a sheet. I like to go 25 1/2" so the countertop doesn't stick out and dent the corner of the fridge door when it swings open.

[John Hemenway]

Seem like if the cabinet is too deep you would hinder complete door opening (180 degrees). Frig spec sheets also have minimum clearances needed top, sides, back for circulation.

[Ben Grunow]

Not for nothing but sometimes I like to recess the fridge into and interior wall a couple of inches to free up some valuable kitchen space. Remove studs if no wires or pipes in the way, add header and PL 400 some nice flat 3/4 ply to the back of the sheetrock that is now exposed with small cleat around the edge to hold everything. There's about 2 1/2" to be found so doors on fridge could be flush with 30" cab or proturde less from another size. This is only for interior walls as this space requires insulation on exterior. Hope this works for you.

[Todd Davidson]

Jeff ~ I've been doing alot of kitchen remodels as of late and see the panels range from 24" (mostly for countertop depth fridges) to 34" for fridges that have provisions on the fridge doors for raised panels.

Ben ~ Welcome to the Creek. With a built in, if the fridge is recessed in the wall, where do you relocate the outlet?

[Tom Hummel]

Jeff,
I am new to Saw Mill Creek, although I have been lurking for sime time. I just faced the same situation for my kitchen and came up with the following:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/tuma0650/Kitchen/PICT0058.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/tuma0650/Kitchen/PICT0059.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/tuma0650/Kitchen/PICT0060.jpg

I used heavy duty 30" under mount slides and made the side of the "Drawer" open. Really works well, you have full access to the back of the cabinet. These cabinets are poplar and are just about ready for paint.
Tom

[Charlie Plesums]

Neat idea, Tom, and welcome to the creek

[Steve Clardy]

Looks great Tom.
And---Welcome to the Creek!!!

[Ben Grunow]

Thanks, it's a great forum and I am filling a shop behind my garage in preparation for my first official gloat with photos(think Sawstop). I am a builder and work as a carpenter on everything from concrete forms when the job starts to stain grade coffered ceilings when the end is near (end of the job that is). I am prepping to build my first kitchen for my house. Hope this isn't "hijacking"- just got carried away.

The outlet can be in the cab above or you can make a pocket on the side of the fridge recess within the depth of the 2x4 wall (behind the upper cabs or below the counter top- anywhere that it won't show). This requires a wider opening be framed to accomodate the electrical box. Just be careful with the load bearing walls.

[Bill Roland]

http://f3.yahoofs.com/users/41a1e0d6z9f3b0df5/be44/__sr_/df83.jpg?photpYEB3lg8u4jZ

This is what I did.