Jet Mini Lathe Modifications

[Keith Outten]

My new Jet Mini just got three new lower clamp brackets to replace the stock round washers and 10mm nut that fasten the tailstock to the underside of the bed ways. I'm happy to report that my tailstock no longer creeps. See the picture below for details and a rough sketch.

The 2" long brackets were made from 1/2" thick steel plate and a 1/8" step was machined to fit the underside of the bed ways and keep the bracket from turning. This more than doubled the contact area with the bed ways and tripled the thread penetration over the thin 10mm nuts that were installed at the factory. This keeps the bolt from skewing and maintains the perpendicular alignment between the the tool post and the lower bracket. The tailstock is rock solid when tightened.

I machined two extra clamp brackets, one for an old tool post from another lathe that is much heavier than the stock Jet tool post. I have two tool rests that fit the old tool post with 7/8" diameter shanks, one is 6" and the other is 12" long. The third clamp bracket will replace the round bracket and 10mm nut under the Jet tool post.

[Mike Leonard]

Looks good Keith. I was at Blue Ridge Hardwoods yesterday and ordered the 1014VS. Should be in in a couple of weeks. I may have to stop out and see you and talk to you about purchasing one of your modification kits. :D

[Keith Outten]

Mike,

We just finished making a custom "S" shaped tool rest for bowls that fits the Jet Mini lathe tool post. We bent 1/2" round stock for the S shape (3" dia) and I machined the 5/8" post on my metal lathe. A little bit of welding and the job fits perfectly.

I can make S curve tool rests in various diameters up to eight inches with round or square stock up to 5/8" diameter. A heavy duty tool rest is my next project, made from 1/4" by 1.5" flat bar. I can also bend these if necessary. Since I don't have a lot of turning experience I'm not sure how many tool rests to make so I'm just making a few so I have some to get started turning.

I'm going down the list of problems people have found with the Jet Mini and trying to correct them as I can. I hope to have a quick fix for the headstock rod holder soon.

Note the curve is probably backwards for you right handed people but since I'm left handed it works perfectly. The things a lefty has to deal with in a workshop would fill a book...it never ends.

[Keith Outten]

Looks good Keith. I was at Blue Ridge Hardwoods yesterday and ordered the 1014VS. Should be in in a couple of weeks. I may have to stop out and see you and talk to you about purchasing one of your modification kits. :D


Mike,

The kit is gonna grow considerably in the coming weeks. this has to be one of the most enjoyable projects I have done in a long time. The Jet Mini is really a nice lathe and it is really easy to design and build goodies for the machine. I have been looking all over the Net to get ideas for a tool post grinder/carver design, something for a dremel tool or possibly a Roto Zip.

[Jim Becker]

A heavy duty tool rest is my next project, made from 1/4" by 1.5" flat bar.

Consider welding a piece of 1/4" drill rod on top of that flat stock for a "slinkier" feel. It will allow your tools to slide easier as you work your turning and will not nick them since it's a round edge. Woodcraft's rests are made this way and they are very nice to use.

[Bill Esposito]

Note the curve is probably backwards for you right handed people but since I'm left handed it works perfectly. The things a lefty has to deal with in a workshop would fill a book...it never ends.Ken,
This left handed thing has my confused. Whether your left or right handed when you have your S-curve inside a bowl you have to work on the left side of center, correct? How does the reverse curve help you??

[Bob Janka]

Ken,
This left handed thing has my confused. Whether your left or right handed when you have your S-curve inside a bowl you have to work on the left side of center, correct? How does the reverse curve help you??

Keith,

I'm with Bill on this one. Handedness of the user should have little impact on the fact that the headstock is on the left and rotation of the spindle is counter-clockwise. This turns the workpiece towards the lathe operator at the top. The tool rest acts as a fulcrum to lever the various tools up towards the oncoming wood. Think of the downward cut of a bandsaw for a comparison.

Assuming that you follow the convention of the tool rest post being in front with the headstock on the left, your S-curve needs to curve into the piece from the right of post, not outwards as you have in your picture. Conversely, the left side will curve outward to support large rims.

Hope this makes sense. Of course, I will defer to anyone with more than the 6 months of turning I have under my belt. ;)

Cheers,
Bob

[Keith Outten]

Ok, let me see if I can explain my lefty approach. If I stand on the back side of the lathe so that I can hold the turning tool left handed then I need to turn the tool post around 180 degrees so that it is on the side I am standing. This makes my S Tool rest turn into the inside of the bowl like it should.

Did I get this right?

[Dave Arbuckle]

Ok, let me see if I can explain my lefty approach. If I stand on the back side of the lathe so that I can hold the turning tool left handed then I need to turn the tool post around 180 degrees so that it is on the side I am standing. This makes my S Tool rest turn into the inside of the bowl like it should.

Did I get this right?

Did by my (left-handed) standard, Keith. The right-handed gentlemen probably don't realize just how insanely clumsy it is to have the headstock on the wrong side. Like you, I stand "behind" the lathe when working bowls.

It is doable to stand behind and use a standard curved rest, but it is still kludgey, I bet yours is a lot better.

(blatant commercial content alert)You considering making one or two of those babies for resale? I'd be interested for a reasonable price.

Dave

[Keith Outten]

Thanks Dave,

I'm glad I wasn't too far off track when I thought of building a left handed tool rest. I haven't used this one yet but I expect it will be much more comfortable than the right handed approach.

Sure, I can make just about any tool rest for almost any lathe reasonably cheap ($20.00 or less) for members of SawMill Creek. If you can provide me with a sketch or email the dimentions you want I can build tool rests from almost any type of material (round, square or flat bar).

I'm using mild steel material as it is more flexible/durable than the cast tool rests. I machine the post on my mill using an end mill which provides a perfect fitup for the weld.

If any of our members are interested in any light machining or welding fabrication let me know. This is not a service I will provide outside of SawMill Creek Members but I am willing to extend to our members the capability of my shop whenever I can.

I don't need the work folks, I just startd a new job this week as a Construction Project Coordinator for Christopher Newport University building new facilities. My workshop has returned to Hobby status with exception of engraving work which I still do in the evenings. Metal working projects give me a chance to work with my Dad on weekends which I really enjoy.

[Bob Oswin]

My new Jet Mini just got three new lower clamp brackets to replace the stock round washers and 10mm nut that fasten the tailstock to the underside of the bed ways.
.
I'm glad you tackled it Keith!
This could be a really good small lathe with some careful attention to detail.
I will be watching to see you make this little bird sing!

Bob

[Bob Oswin]

Ken,
This left handed thing has my confused. Whether your left or right handed when you have your S-curve inside a bowl you have to work on the left side of center, correct? How does the reverse curve help you??
Bill:
I think I can make this clear for you.
Just take the side of any bowl between you thumb and forefinger.
Your thumb is the outside curve and your forefinger is the inside curve.
Or vice versa. Get it?
Somewhere along the finish you will be turning the piece 180. That's when the other rest kicks in.

The closer you get the sweeter the cut!
Bob

[Keith Outten]

I'm glad you tackled it Keith!
This could be a really good small lathe with some careful attention to detail.
I will be watching to see you make this little bird sing!

Bob

Thanks Bob,

I intend to post an article when this project is done. I will take plenty of pictures and will provide CAD drawings and material lists for each modification phase.

[Scott Greaves]

Hey Keith,

I really like the mods you've made for the Jet Mini! Those square inserts for under the tailstock and the banjo are great ideas! If you wanted to make up about fifty of those, I know a bunch of people who would love them! (Or maybe just two for me!) :D

But the S shaped tool rest is just wrong! ;) Really though, to make that S work right, you'd have to make the whole lathe run backwards. With the S lined up on the inside of the "far" side of the bowl, you'd have to rest the tool on the underside of the rest for it to cut properly. I stand on the opposite side of my lathe often to get a good angle for the inside of the bowl. I also turn with "both" hands. It's a good skill to learn. Of course you could easily make the lathe turn in the opposite direction, but then you'd have to occasionally come around to the "front" side of the lathe to get the best angle on the inside of your bowl! And besides, all your chucks and faceplates would twist off when you started your lathe! :D If I'm wrong about this, please set me right. But try the tool rest on the inside of a bowl and see what I mean.

Scott.

[Richard Allen]

Hi Scott

If you spin the banjo around so that the toolrest post is on the far side of the lathe (where Keith wants to stand) then Keith's "Z" rest would work.

Personaly I prefer a "J" rest for the inside of the bolw and a "C" rest for the outside of the bowl. Look at the Oneway rest to see the shapes.

https://miva3.synergydns.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000002/lathes-acc-toolrst-owcrvrst-img.jpg

Thanks

[Keith Outten]

Hi Scott

If you spin the banjo around so that the toolrest post is on the far side of the lathe (where Keith wants to stand) then Keith's "Z" rest would work.

Personaly I prefer a "J" rest for the inside of the bolw and a "C" rest for the outside of the bowl. Look at the Oneway rest to see the shapes.
Thanks

Thanks for the pictures Richard. My next tool rests will be simular to yours. I think the "C" and "J" shaped rests will work right or left handed.

Jim Becker suggested that I weld a solid round to the top of flat bar. This would provide a smoother surface for the chisel. I will make an effort to build a couple this weekend if I can match the bending radius of the two shapes.

More pictures to follow.

Scott,

I will make a couple dozen of the clamp brackets next week for the Jet Mini lathes. If anyone wants one or more just send me a private message or an email. I have to order new bandsaw blades for my metal saw before I can make the brackets.

[Bob Oswin]

Consider welding a piece of 1/4" drill rod on top of that flat stock for a "slinkier" feel. It will allow your tools to slide easier as you work your turning and will not nick them since it's a round edge. Woodcraft's rests are made this way and they are very nice to use.

Jim / Keith:
If I could offer a suggestion:
Round bar stock places the fulcrum of the tool rest at the center of the bar stock.
In addition, the shape of the bar requires that it be placed at least 1/4 inch from it's greatest circumference on the wood side.
At least for the S and C curve, I suggest using 5/16" or 3/8" by 3/4 or 7/8" bar stock.
The stock should be welded off center and toward the wood side of the rest to gain on the dead space between the tool and the stock.
Keith if you have an end mill set up, just bevel the stock about 20 degrees before you bend it toward the wood side to get a flat surface for the tool to glide.

Hope this make sense.
Bob - (A guy remaking several rests as we speak.) :p

[Jim Becker]

Jim / Keith:
If I could offer a suggestion:
Round bar stock places the fulcrum of the tool rest at the center of the bar stock.
In addition, the shape of the bar requires that it be placed at least 1/4 inch from it's greatest circumference on the wood side.
At least for the S and C curve, I suggest using 5/16" or 3/8" by 3/4 or 7/8" bar stock.
The stock should be welded off center and toward the wood side of the rest to gain on the dead space between the tool and the stock.
Keith if you have an end mill set up, just bevel the stock about 20 degrees before you bend it toward the wood side to get a flat surface for the tool to glide.

Bob, I think you have a good idea, especially for when working with small work where the gap would be significant. That being said, I currently use the BestWood round rests for the majority of what I turn and the gap has not been an issue, particularly since I largely use the Ellsworth gouge...a 5/8" tool. For small work, I pull out the OEM OneWay rest as I can get that up close and personal with the workpiece.

I wanted to try the Woodcraft rests, but the posts were too tall for my OneWay 1018 and I had to return them. (I don't own a welder, so I have not been able to make anything up custom)

[Bob Oswin]

Bob, I think you have a good idea, especially for when working with small work where the gap would be significant. That being said, I currently use the BestWood round rests for the majority of what I turn and the gap has not been an issue, particularly since I largely use the Ellsworth gouge...a 5/8" tool. For small work, I pull out the OEM OneWay rest as I can get that up close and personal with the workpiece.

I wanted to try the Woodcraft rests, but the posts were too tall for my OneWay 1018 and I had to return them. (I don't own a welder, so I have not been able to make anything up custom)

Jim: I understand your dilemma! Without a way to modify your tools you are at the mercy of the engineers! ;)
Actually, as you progress with your lathe you will find that certain punky or spalted woods do not lend themselves to the Ellsworth gouge , nor does the likes of Cocobolo and Ironwood.
You will have to resort to scrapers.
It is in these instances that you will need a beefier tool (1/4-1/2" thick) and a minimum of space bewteen the rest and the wood.

I think for most other procedures your are pretty safe with the standard rests albiet they do require constant repositioning as they actually don't fit very many shapes the we actually turn.


Bob

[Jim Becker]

Actually, as you progress with your lathe you will find that certain punky or spalted woods do not lend themselves to the Ellsworth gouge , nor does the likes of Cocobolo and Ironwood.
You will have to resort to scrapers.

I find that interesting as I haven't had any problems cutting these materials with my Ellsworth gouge so far, although I don't work with them much. I rarely use scrapers...it just hasn't been a tool I like to use. As far as spalted materials...I use them all the time with no problem. Some examples are shown below, all from wood from our property.

[Bob Oswin]

I find that interesting as I haven't had any problems cutting these materials with my Ellsworth gouge so far, although I don't work with them much. I rarely use scrapers...it just hasn't been a tool I like to use. As far as spalted materials...I use them all the time with no problem. Some examples are shown below, all from wood from our property.

Jim:
I hate to ask, but is that tear out on bowl #1 ,2 and 3? :rolleyes:

Bob

[Jim Becker]

Jim:
I hate to ask, but is that tear out on bowl #1 ,2 and 3? :rolleyes:

Bob

No...these pieces are smooth as a new-born baby's butt! The lighting is giving some white reflections that look somewhat like tear-out. I didn't use difusers (didn't know abou them) when these shots were taken at my desk with a simple black paper background and three hallogen desk lamps for illumination. In picture, one, that piece is highly, highly figured (blank taken from near the base of the tree) and almost has an optical illusion effect as you rotate it. The highly spalted piece is quite colorful and the small white areas are the ones that "look like" tear out, but are not.

When I get tearout that I can't get rid of...the piece goes in the kindling pile. I'm way too anal...

[Tom Sweeney]

You should post more of your turnings (I know you've been preoccupied in the shop lately :D ) These are fabulous. I love the urn - looks like something an archeologist dug up in Mesopatamia or something.

[Tom Sweeney]

Great job on those tool rests - you've given me a few ideas. What kind of metal did you use? Looks like stainless - but I'm guessing it's just highly polished tool steel?

[Keith Outten]

I can order a corner rounding end mill, maybe rounding the top of the flat bar would be the best solution. This way the top would be very smooth and there wouldn't be any spacial issues. This would solve the bending problem since I could round the corner first, then bend any angle or radius.

What do you think of this idea?

[Jim Becker]

[QUOTE=Keith Outten]I can order a corner rounding end mill, maybe rounding the top of the flat bar would be the best solution. This way the top would be very smooth and there wouldn't be any spacial issues. This would solve the bending problem since I could round the corner first, then bend any angle or radius.QUOTE]

That makes perfect sense and should be your first step. The one advantage to adding the drill rod to the top is that it is (usually) harder material and less likely to "ding", but given you have the ability to make more rests... :D

[Bob Oswin]

Great job on those tool rests - you've given me a few ideas. What kind of metal did you use? Looks like stainless - but I'm guessing it's just highly polished tool steel?
Thanks Tom:
Most of it is just cold rolled steel.
I sand them off and buff em witha 8" wheel and some carborundum.

These were my first attempts last year and I now have learned a bit about constructing these devices that are not part of the picture I submitted.
If you are interested I will detail the shnges for you.

I don't have any fancy tools except for my acetylene torch and a couple of grinders, but I saved myself a lot of time and money with this project.

regards
Bob

[Bob Oswin]

I can order a corner rounding end mill, maybe rounding the top of the flat bar would be the best solution. This way the top would be very smooth and there wouldn't be any spacial issues. This would solve the bending problem since I could round the corner first, then bend any angle or radius.

What do you think of this idea?
Hi Keith:
Having gone down this road recently I can warn you about the following:
1. The tools vary in thickness from 1/4" to 1/2".
Your toolrest (s) should have a post long enough to accomodate up to 5/8 of an inch play from the center line.( center of the tailstock center.)
2. The rest should be able to just touch a dowel when you hold a 1/2" dowel between the head and tail stock. ( 1/4" play + or -)

The rest is Rocket science. <vbg>
and yes, a 1/4 round over would be nice!
bob