Chainsaw fuel mix

[John Kain]

Just got a 55cc chainsaw off Ebay. It's a craftsman (yes I got it for cheap), and I was wondering if anyone knew the 2-stroke fuel mix ratio. I'm guessing 50:1, but without an owners manual I can't be sure............

[Steve Clardy]

Most are 50:1
My jonsered is 2oz. to a gallon.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

I've had my Stihl about 1 year. It's 50:1 It also says to use gasoline with a minimum octane of 89 (R+M/2). Lower octane fuels run at higher temps and could cause the engine to lock up.

[John Kain]

Yeah, I thought as much. 50:1 is what I planned for....

I used the mix for the weedwacker which is mixed the same. Unfortunately, the saw will not turnover. Very dissappointing as the saw looks to be in good condition. I really don't know a whole lot about chainsaws either way. Maybe it's a good opportunity to fix one up and learn about them. Still, it's crappy that I was sold a saw that was suppose to work.........

[Joe Pelonio]

On the other hand, my older Mccullough is 32:1, and a friend of mine had a really old Craftsman that was 16:1. I understand the newer Craftsman are made by Poulan, so maybe check them on the web.

[John Kain]

Well, I mixed up one of the newer 2-stroke concoctions that states it will work in anything from 16 to 50:1. No go on getting it started.

[John Shuk]

The brand might help.

[John Kain]

The brand might help.
Chainsaw: Craftsman 55cc
Mix: Pro-Mix (Sears special I think) with 87 Octane

[Roger Bell]

Most of the Euro saws (Stihl, Husky, Jonsoreds, etc) run lean at 40:1 to 50:1 with the newer ones at 50:1. They also require a higher octane gas and gas that is reasonably fresh. You can't use year-old gas in these saws without taking a big chance. These engines are far more sensitive and far less tolerant to poorly mixed fuel, old gas, etc. This kind of adherence to detail is part of the price you pay for superior performance.

Most of the American saws (Homelite, McCullough) run richer...and vary from 16:1 to 32:1. Many of the older American saws are 16:1 but the newer ones are more likely to be 32:1. Generally, the older the American saw, the more you can abuse it by being sloppy or inaccurate with your fuel mix. Also, oils formulated for air cooled 2 cycle engines at 40:1 to 50:1 can be used at the 32:1 ratio, but I know Homelite does not recommend oils formulated for 16:1 to be used in their engines spec'd for 32:1.

What I am saying is that you cannot make generalizations....you really need to know what the engine manufacturer recommends.

I recommend going to Sears and getting the owners manual. I really, really doubt that an older Sears saw is Euro. Probably and most likely a Homelite or McCullough. Manual might be available on the web. If you can find out who made it, you can email Customer Service at Homelite or McCullough, etc. and they will tell you the recommended mix.

But if you just want to wing it and see what happens, is generally better to err on the side of "too rich" rather than "too lean".

There are a lot of potential causes for failure to start. These include spark plugs, fuel filters, clogged fuel lines, etc. as well as more serious problems perhaps not worth messing with.... unless you like that sort of challenge. You get the picture....the fuel itself is but one factor.

[John Kain]

Most of the Euro saws (Stihl, Husky, Jonsoreds, etc) run lean at 40:1 to 50:1 with the newer ones at 50:1. They also require a higher octane gas and gas that is reasonably fresh. You can't use year-old gas in these saws without taking a big chance. These engines are far more sensitive and far less tolerant to poorly mixed fuel, old gas, etc. This kind of adherence to detail is part of the price you pay for superior performance.

Most of the American saws (Homelite, McCullough) run richer...and vary from 16:1 to 32:1. Many of the older American saws are 16:1 but the newer ones are more likely to be 32:1. Generally, the older the American saw, the more you can abuse it by being sloppy or inaccurate with your fuel mix. Also, oils formulated for air cooled 2 cycle engines at 40:1 to 50:1 can be used at the 32:1 ratio, but I know Homelite does not recommend oils formulated for 16:1 to be used in their engines spec'd for 32:1.

What I am saying is that you cannot make generalizations....you really need to know what the engine manufacturer recommends.

I recommend going to Sears and getting the owners manual. I really, really doubt that an older Sears saw is Euro. Probably and most likely a Homelite or McCullough. Manual might be available on the web. If you can find out who made it, you can email Customer Service at Homelite or McCullough, etc. and they will tell you the recommended mix.

But if you just want to wing it and see what happens, is generally better to err on the side of "too rich" rather than "too lean".

Awesome Roger, thanks!

I'll hit Sears this weekend and ask for a product manual. I figured 50:1 without thinking twice.........

Thanks for the help everyone........

[Wes Bischel]

John,
You might find your model here if it's old enough:
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/GasbyManufacturer?OpenView&Start=1&Count=30&Expand=23#23

(more models at "next page")

Good luck,
Wes

[Norman Hitt]

John, how's the spark? I've had several small engines that became hard to start/wouldn't start and after checking, & fixing everything else discovered a slight rust layer on the steel plates of the coil that is closest to the flywheel, and after brightening them up and the iron insert on the flywheel with emery cloth and resetting the distance to the flywheel, they started right up. also, the coil just might be bad, or the carbon INSIDE the spark plug wire coming off the coil could look ok but be broken, (and on most new ones it's not replaceable--have to change the whole coil). Lots of little things it could be.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Yeah, I thought as much. 50:1 is what I planned for....

I used the mix for the weedwacker which is mixed the same. Unfortunately, the saw will not turnover. Very dissappointing as the saw looks to be in good condition. I really don't know a whole lot about chainsaws either way. Maybe it's a good opportunity to fix one up and learn about them. Still, it's crappy that I was sold a saw that was suppose to work.........

You say it will not turn over, as in you pull on the cord and the cord does not come out?

If this is true, you may have a seized piston, not good.

Take the sparkplug out, tell us what you see.

Is the sparkplug;

black and oily - rich
brown - just about right
white - lean
white with little spots or dots of silver on it - YIKES lean to the point of melting the piston top!


Next, use a long thin dowel, or even the non-pointy end of a pencil, and see if you can push down on the piston, does it move? If it does not move at all, it could be seized, or, but luck, at the bottom of it's stroke.

Now take off the cord/pull start thing, there are some small parts and springs in there, so be careful and do this over a nice big table or such to catch parts falling out.

There should be 4 screws, and the unit just comes off, should be:rolleyes:

Now without the pull start attached to the saw, see if the pull start pulls out, it could be stuck.

You should be able to get a wrench or something on the end of the shaft that the pull start worked on, try to turn the engine over with this, does it turn?

It should turn easily with the sparkplug out.

If the piston is well and truly stuck, try squirting some WD-40 in there and leaving it over night, but you may still end up taking the motor apart and getting a chunk of wood and a big hammer to remove it.

Good luck! :D

[Peter Stahl]

Just got a 55cc chainsaw off Ebay. It's a craftsman (yes I got it for cheap), and I was wondering if anyone knew the 2-stroke fuel mix ratio. I'm guessing 50:1, but without an owners manual I can't be sure............

John,

I would say 50:1 too. Try a new spark plug and also these little 2 strokers have to be choked to get them to start. Also look to see if it has a flash arrester on the exhaust. My wifes grandfather had the same weedwacker I had but when his flash arrester clogged up it was very hard to start and would barely run. When I took the flash arrester off it ran better than mine. Even with a Gas:Oil mix being off a little it should still start. Good luck, let us know if you get this puppy started. Maybe someone here can tell you how to check to see if it's getting a spark or not.

[Stan Mijal]

Just got a 55cc chainsaw off Ebay. It's a craftsman (yes I got it for cheap), and I was wondering if anyone knew the 2-stroke fuel mix ratio. I'm guessing 50:1, but without an owners manual I can't be sure............


John,

After having two string trimmer, a leaf blower, and a chainsaw , I found myself with having to mix both 40:1 and 50:1 mixtures depending on which machine it was for.
The solution for me was to use Amsoil synthetic 2 cycle lube. It can be mixed as lean as 100:1 and still guarantee better protection than dino oils. I just mixed ot a 50:1 to add a little more oil (err on the side of caution) and use it for all the two-cycle equipment. It burns cleaner and should result in fewer deposits and plug fouling than conventional oils, so I feel I am ahead by making this change.

Stan

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

......... Maybe someone here can tell you how to check to see if it's getting a spark or not.

Sure, take the sparkplug (SP) out, and then put the plug back into the sparkplug wire boot, lean the metal of the SP against the metal of the motor, (away from the SP hole) and pull the cord, if the motor spins over, you should see a nice fat blue spark on the electrode of the SP, if something is wrong, you will see no spark, or a very weak one.

Thing is, I thought he could not get the motor to turn over..........? :confused:

Stan, that Amsoil stuff is the best, it really works well, don't it. :D

One thing most people don't under stand about 2-smokes is that if you are running 50:1 and you change that to 32:1 (which I run my 2-smokes on with dino oil) you will be running lean, not rich, as there is more oil in the mix, thus less gas.

Most people think it is the other way round.

Just a tip.

Cheers!

[John Kain]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll start by checking the spark plug today after dinner. Here's some pics of the saw. It's actually pretty new. Previous owner said it started up just fine. We'll see about that......

37974

37975


EDIT Stu, the spark plug is black and oily.

[Jim O'Dell]

John, something Stu and I, and probably others, are confused about...when you pull the rope, does the engine turn over? In cars at work we call this 'no crank' , 'or crank-no start' when someone calls in and their car won't start. If it cranks but won't start, check the spark as Stu described. If this doesn't work, clean the carb out. If it has been sitting around not being used, as most chainsaws live out their lives, it could be really gunked up. Except in your last edit you said the plug was black and oily. That make me believe it is turning over and getting fuel, just not firing. Follow the instructions Norman gave you above for this. Otherwise, I find I use my chainsaw about once every year. The first time I try to start it, it takes me forever to get it started. Same with the weedeater each season. Make sure you are using fresh gas. If you are trying to use some you had in the can over the winter, it's bad unless you put stabilizer in it last fall. If you have spark, get used to using both arms pulling that rope. :D Jim

[John Kain]

John, something Stu and I, and probably others, are confused about...when you pull the rope, does the engine turn over? In cars at work we call this 'no crank' , 'or crank-no start' when someone calls in and their car won't start. If it cranks but won't start, check the spark as Stu described. If this doesn't work, clean the carb out. If it has been sitting around not being used, as most chainsaws live out their lives, it could be really gunked up. Except in your last edit you said the plug was black and oily. That make me believe it is turning over and getting fuel, just not firing. Follow the instructions Norman gave you above for this. Otherwise, I find I use my chainsaw about once every year. The first time I try to start it, it takes me forever to get it started. Same with the weedeater each season. Make sure you are using fresh gas. If you are trying to use some you had in the can over the winter, it's bad unless you put stabilizer in it last fall. If you have spark, get used to using both arms pulling that rope. :D Jim

Sorry about the confusion.......

I pull the rope and the motor just gives me an effort but never starts. So I guess that work make it "crank but no start".

First things first: I'll get some new gas and mix to the correct ratio. I still need to go to Sears and find the right ratio.

If that doesn't work I'll probably need to clean the carbureter out. I've never done that before so I'll be interesting..........<nobr></nobr> (http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LaSVXlQF1EmmwA6_tXNyoA/SIG=172cmafeo/EXP=1147048549/**http%3a//search.yahoo.com/search%3fp=carburetor%26sp=1%26fr2=sp-top%26sm=Yahoo%2521%2bSearch%26toggle=1%26ei=UTF-8%26fr=FP-tab-web-t%26ei=UTF-8%26SpellState=n-1476615243_q-7brEmFuqYwkeGXzXA4xJJgABAA%2540%2540)

[John Kain]

One other thing I didn't mention. I am running a weedwacker and power blower off the same fuel mix without any problems. The blower (also a craftsman) is newer, the weekwacker is 4 years old.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Get a new spark plug while you are at Sears, they don't cost much and it is nice to have a spare.

With a nice clean plug it might start right up.

Sounds like it is running really rich, I'd go with the 32:1 mix, this will give you more oil (longer engine life) and less gas, which will lean out the mix, might run better.

How new old is it?

Are there any mixture screws on the carb?

if there are, you can fiddle with that to get it running, and starting better.

Cheers!

[Joe Pelonio]

John,

If it sat a long time with old fuel it's gummed up. Have had that happen on a little outboard, used gumout and took it apart to clean. Test by dropping some fuel mix into the spark plug hole, reinstall plug, and if it starts but then dies it's not getting fuel.

[John Kain]

OK, I put new fuel in......no start
OK, I put a couple drops in with spark plug.......no start

I went to Sears to get a new spark plug.........they don't stock it anymore, but I can buy it online for $8. What a rip off!

[Jim O'Dell]

Try one of the box stores, or better yet an auto parts store can look it up and tell you which one works. Seems that even Wally World has a little computerized match up to look up plugs, or the old tried and true Champion book. Could try Champions web site and see if they have it on line to find their plug model that fits. Jim

[Joe Pelonio]

Sure, take the sparkplug (SP) out, and then put the plug back into the sparkplug wire boot, lean the metal of the SP against the metal of the motor, (away from the SP hole) and pull the cord, if the motor spins over, you should see a nice fat blue spark on the electrode of the SP, if something is wrong, you will see no spark, or a very weak one.

Did you try this yet? It's normally easier to just put in a new plug but if you can't find one easily, check the old one. It could also be a bad magneto, though I've never seen one go out in all the years of mowers, chainsaws and other gas power tools.

[Jim O'Dell]

John, go to: http://www.championsparkplugs.com/Default.asp
If this doesn't take you to the chainsaw page, select the type of vehicle menu, and click lawn and garden, then select the make menue and select Craftsman, then select the motor model menu, and slect the one that's yours. Should be on id plate just under the handle from your picture. If this doesn't work, go to: http://www.outdoordistributors.com/parts.html
and go through their menus. I think it asks for the Craftsman model number instead of the motor model. One of these should narrow down to what plug it should be. I bet if you have an Auto Zone or similar parts store near you, they'll have the plug. Let us know! Jim.

[Peter Stahl]

OK, I put new fuel in......no start
OK, I put a couple drops in with spark plug.......no start

I went to Sears to get a new spark plug.........they don't stock it anymore, but I can buy it online for $8. What a rip off!

Go to a local lawnmower/chainsaw repair place, they should have them too. You might be able to get a cross reference number from sparkplugs.com for a champion plug. They do list Craftsman chainsaw in the chainsaw list. I was at HD the other day and they had quite a few champions on the shelf. Also sounds like you flooded it. Leave the spark plug out so it can air out. When you try it again make sure you use full choke, when it sound like it tried to start then go half choke and pull again. Once it gets running turn the choke off. I wouldn't buy on line from Sears, can't be that special a plug. Probaly a Champion CJ8 or RC8J.

[John Kain]

Did you try this yet? It's normally easier to just put in a new plug but if you can't find one easily, check the old one. It could also be a bad magneto, though I've never seen one go out in all the years of mowers, chainsaws and other gas power tools.
I do see a blue spark, but I certainly wouldn't describe it as a fat blue spark. It's more like a thin, weaker blue spark, but easy to see.

EDIT: here's some more crap to piss me off. My chainsaw is model #316.350840. That model/engine isn't listed in any of the champion spark plug guides, nor autozone, nor etc etc etc. So, now I can't even find the right plug.

[Ian Abraham]

So, now I can't even find the right plug.

You should be able to cross reference the old plug you do have and get an equivalent. Any decent small engine service place or a chainsaw dealer should be able to help you out.

If you have spark thats a good sign, try a new plug next, otherwise a gunked up carby would be the next place to look.

Cheers

Ian

[Jim O'Dell]

Sorry, I'm striking out also. I had great luck finding my carburetor replacement for my Sears lawnmower that is about 8 years old, but nothing on this. Is there a motor number on the tag? or just the model number of the chainsaw? Ian is right, the next step is the number on the spark plug if it is legible. Let us know. If none of this pans out, find a small engine repair facility and ask them, like some one mentioned earlier. Especially if you can find an old codger. He'll look at it and say, "you need a xxxxxxx" then life will be good. Keep us updated! Jim.

[Wes Bischel]

John,
Another place to try is Sears parts:
http://www3.sears.com/

Plug your model number in and it will give you the diagrams and part numbers. According to the site, they have you spark plug available for $8 (part# MC-9295-320001).

Wes

[Jim Davenport]

I do see a blue spark, but I certainly wouldn't describe it as a fat blue spark. It's more like a thin, weaker blue spark, but easy to see.

EDIT: here's some more crap to piss me off. My chainsaw is model #316.350840. That model/engine isn't listed in any of the champion spark plug guides, nor autozone, nor etc etc etc. So, now I can't even find the right plug.
According to the Craftsman mfg's list at the "OWWM" site, your saw
(316. XXXXXX) is made by Ryobi. That might be of help in finding a plug, and parts.

[John Kain]

John,
Another place to try is Sears parts:
http://www3.sears.com/

Plug your model number in and it will give you the diagrams and part numbers. According to the site, they have you spark plug available for $8 (part# MC-9295-320001).

Wes

I saw that as I stated previously, but $8 is a joke and it'll take 10-14 days to get it to me (according to customer service) and they won't give me the hex size, reach, etc...

[John Kain]

According to the Craftsman mfg's list at the "OWWM" site, your saw
(316. XXXXXX) is made by Ryobi. That might be of help in finding a plug, and parts.

I saw this as well. I didn't see spark plugs for 316.350840 though......

they also state:

We only carry parts for Craftsman Lawn Mowers, Craftsman Tillers, Craftsman Lawn Tractors and Garden Tractors. We also carry parts for the trimmers, chainsaws, blowers and outdoor power equipment from the tip highlighted manufacturers. We do not carry appliance parts


but they only have information about the handle on the chainsaw, nothing else.....

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

John, it has been my experience that there are not a lot of chainsaw sparkplugs, I mean, as a maker of chainsaws, why reinvent the wheel?

Take the plug to a local small engine repair shop, I'll bet they will have one that will work for sure.

For $8 you are paying Sears to stock it.

I bought a sparkplug for my old (like 1976) Husky here, it was on none of the charts either, but one look and it was the larger size of the three sparkplugs they had at the saw shop, cost me all of $4...... in Japan!

Good luck, with a new plug, I bet you get a better spark

Some other points, while I'm here.

Most chainsaws have a fuel filter on them, often it is located on the end of the piece of flexible tubing in the gas tank, this way, whatever way you orientated the saw, the carb gets gas, as the filter is heavy, and drops to the bottom of the tank. These get clogged up (that is what they are supposed to do), check it, and while you are at it, check that fuel line too.

If you know anything at all about motors, say bikes etc, the chainsaw is a VERY simple motor, the carbs are VERY basic, and you can easily rebuild one.

I had some troubles with my old Husky, a lot of things, but a new sparkplug, sparkplug wire, and a carb rebuild, and it runs like a champ.

The thing is, I took the carb apart and cleaned it the best I could and it would still not run right.

You see in my carb, there are these little domed aluminium caps, that need to be removed to REALLY clean the carbs, but, to remove them, you destroy them, so until I got the full carb rebuild kit, I was stuck.
http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/jackpot/husky/ball_of_fuzz_location.jpg

As you can see, that was a monkey wrench in the works.

Good luck!

[Ed Breen]

Hey John,
Three pages of advice, I'm like a lot of others, and I forever put away an engine (either 8hps or chain saws or trimmers) without running them dry. When I finally wake up in the Spring I just take them to Sonnys and let him take care of it. That's his business and it works every time.
Just my prediliction!
Ed:rolleyes: :confused:

[Wes Bischel]

I saw that as I stated previously, but $8 is a joke and it'll take 10-14 days to get it to me (according to customer service) and they won't give me the hex size, reach, etc...
Oops sorry, didn't catch that.:o

Good luck though.
Wes

[John Kain]

Hey John,
Three pages of advice, I'm like a lot of others, and I forever put away an engine (either 8hps or chain saws or trimmers) without running them dry. When I finally wake up in the Spring I just take them to Sonnys and let him take care of it. That's his business and it works every time.
Just my prediliction!
Ed:rolleyes: :confused:

That's not very fun.........;)

[Joe Tonich]

If ya go to SEARS site... http://www3.sears.com/ .... and put in the #, your saw comes up and has the parts list for it. Unfortunately I didn't see a manual for it. PM me if ya want me to stop by the repair center close by me and I may be able to find the fuel mix for ya.

[Joe Mioux]

John,

After having two string trimmer, a leaf blower, and a chainsaw , I found myself with having to mix both 40:1 and 50:1 mixtures depending on which machine it was for.
The solution for me was to use Amsoil synthetic 2 cycle lube. It can be mixed as lean as 100:1 and still guarantee better protection than dino oils. I just mixed ot a 50:1 to add a little more oil (err on the side of caution) and use it for all the two-cycle equipment. It burns cleaner and should result in fewer deposits and plug fouling than conventional oils, so I feel I am ahead by making this change.

Stan

hmmm: I have the same dilemma. My Shindawa is 40:1 and all the Stihl stuff is 50:1. I just shoot for the middle. It has worked well for 8 years.

Actually, this is why I only buy Stihl products now. In the past I had three or four gas tanks with different mixtures for the different brands. That was a pain.

I also have a "little hoe" that is 24:1, she gets her own fuel.

Now it is two tanks.

Joe

[Dave Lehnert]

I think you guys are making a bigger deal out of the mixing ratio than it has to be. The mower shops don’t keep a bunch of different mixes on hand. The newer two cycle oil is made to mix with a gallon of gas no matter what your mix ratio is. I buy it at Home Depot. If you are not sure what to get, stop by a mower shop and they will have it. I have used it for years with not a problem. Have to say it is so common I did not realize you could buy the old stuff you had to mix 16 to 1 etc….

[John Kain]

I think you guys are making a bigger deal out of the mixing ratio than it has to be. The mower shops don’t keep a bunch of different mixes on hand. The newer two cycle oil is made to mix with a gallon of gas no matter what your mix ratio is. I buy it at Home Depot. If you are not sure what to get, stop by a mower shop and they will have it. I have used it for years with not a problem. Have to say it is so common I did not realize you could buy the old stuff you had to mix 16 to 1 etc….
That's the type of mix I'm using now. It is designed to function well in 16 to 50 : 1 mix engines.

So I got a new spark plug. No start.

I noted that this spark plug has a good blue spark. In the process of doing the spark test, I noticed a fine mist of fuel came out with each pull of the cord, so I know it's getting fuel.

I'm left with probably having a gummed up carb now vs. bad wiring on the kill switch? Am I going at this correctly?

Aside, thanks everyone for their input. This is actually very fun for me to fix up this chainsaw. It's a good learning experience and actually is enjoyable. I can fix a broken spine but not a 2-stroke engine.......go figure!

[Norman Hitt]

This is actually very fun for me to fix up this chainsaw. It's a good learning experience and actually is enjoyable.

I can fix a broken spine but not a 2-stroke engine.......go figure!

But ya see John, the reason it's FUN, is 'cause you're learnin' new Tricks.;) Fixin' a broken spine is using skills that's kinda Artsy/Crafty, with maybe a little Black Magic thrown in,:rolleyes: ( 'course that's after all tha testing/trouble shootin' 'n visual inspection) but there, you use skills similar to beautiful carvings or delicate needlework.:)

Now with this "Machine", there still has to be tha trouble shootin', 'n visual inspection, but no anesthesia is required, and from there on, it's just Man over Machine, with it laying there dead as a doornail as if to say, Aha, and what are ya gonna try now big fellow?:confused: :D

Hang in there, I'm bettin' on ya.:D

PS, a little trick I use to clean out gunked up fuel systems & carbs without having to take the carb completely apart, and to flush out any small orfices, is to get some "B-12 Chemtool" in the spray can, with the little red plastic straw taped to the side that you can stick in the spray tip to really aim at specific places or into small holes, and flush it well, including the fuel filter and line from tank to carb. (You can get it at Autozone, sometimes Wally World, and most auto parts stores). There are others, but IMHO, this one has been the best for the last 25 years or so.

One other thing to check if the "no start mode continues", is to check to be sure that the flywheel is installed in the correct position to give the proper ignition timing. IIRC, on most small engines, it can only be installed in one position, but it's always a possibility that it's not.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

John, pull the carb, take it apart, but before you do so, take some pics of it (Actually take some pics of it before you pull the carb).

If this saw is made by Ryobi, then the carb could be different but the vast majority of all chainsaw carbs are made by three companies, Walbro, Tillotson and Zama.

Do a search for Zacm, they have a good site with lots of info.

You won't find any numbers there for Craftsman chainsaws, but if you have a carb by one of those makers, you should be able to get a number off the carb, and then you are in business.

Order the carb rebuild kit, they are VERY simple to install.

If you rebuild the carb, have a new sparkplug and are getting spark, and have new gas coming to the carb unrestricted through a new fuel filter, and you don't have a hole in the piston (if you put your finger over the sparkplug hole and pull the cord, do you feel pressure?) then it has to work.......................... really, it does! :D

[Peter Stahl]

John,

I think it's time to take it to a repair shop or get one of these (see below).

[Dick Strauss]

Do not mess with the carb settings just yet! Check the air filter first. Check the spark arrester next. If they are in good shape, your start routine is probably the problem. Mine looks something like this for my McCulloch 16" saw (40:1 ratio):

1. set the choke to full choke and prime the bulb 10 times.
2. pull the rope three times in quick succession.
3. set the choke to half choke.
4. pull the rope three times.
5. the saw always starts on the 3rd pull at half choke
6. leave the saw running for 15 seconds and turn the choke off.

As you can see, it can be complicated. This routine always works for me (with a cold saw) but every saw I've ever used is different.

Good luck!!!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

John, this just occurred to me, now I could be WAY wrong here, but but, I saw this happen once a while ago.

A buddy had a saw that he could not get to start, he'd tried it all, everything seemed OK, but it would not start.

I went over to his house and he showed me the saw, it all looked fine, so we took it out side, I put the saw on the ground, made sure the run switch was set to "Run", pulled about half choke, and then squeezed the trigger and set the fast idle........

He said "What's that..........?" meaning the fast idle....:eek:

He did not know to set the fast idle, this was the first engine chainsaw he had owned, before that, he'd used electrics around his house.

Well the saw started on the 2nd pull, and he was really relieved, and embarrassed, but he did not know about the fast idle for starts, he thought it was a lock button like on a drill, do you don't have to squeezed the trigger to keep it at full speed......

Yes, I spent the next two hours with him bucking up the tree we took down for firewood, making sure he had a good handle on how to use a chainsaw.

Now I think you said you have/had other saws, so this is most likely not the problem, but......... well, I just thought I'd add this, just in case.

Cheers!

[Dick Strauss]

Good thinking Stu...I forgot to mention that part!

[Dennis Peacock]

JThe solution for me was to use Amsoil synthetic 2 cycle lube. It can be mixed as lean as 100:1 and still guarantee better protection than dino oils.
Stan

I agree Stan....I also use Amsoil synthectic and LOVE it. I've used it for about 18 years now. I bought a used GreenMachine weedeater in the late '85 and I started using Amsoil in it as soon as I found out about Amsoil. That weed eater lasted me 20 years and I NEVER done a thing to it except for changing the sparkplug after 10 years of use...just because. I still have it, and it needs a fuel tank and line to get back running again and you can't buy them any more. Haven't made the parts for it in YEARS. So I bought a H'varna weedeater this time....maybe it'll last me 20 years. :D

[Frank Fusco]

Sears/Crapsman provides all that information on-line.
For what it's worth, my Stihl products are 50:1 but run only if I use Stihl brand oil. Dunno why.