Well I gone an' done it

[Jeremy Chisholm]

Good news: PM 2000 Delivered yesterday. :D

Bad news: I already broke it. :mad:

I was installing the back rail for the accu-fence. It's attached with two 5/16 hex bolts, into pre-tapped holes in the table.

First bolt finger tight, check. Second bolt finger tight, check. First cinched up with rachet, tight but not all the way yet. Second bolt cinching up and WOAH. I just snapped the bolt off!!!

Of all the fasteners I've snapped off in my life, this was the most surprising. The bolt appeared bright and undamaged, and it was moving normally without unexpected friction, when BAM. Snapped off just like that.

So, I plan to extract it tomorrow (I've gotta get a couple other things done tonight). I've got a drill-type bolt extractor that I've never yet had occasion to use- will I likely be able to get the bolt out without damaging the threads in the hole, or will I have to bore it out and tap it fresh? Any suggestions on how to avoid a repeat?

Pics when LOML gets back in town with the digital camera...

[Don Baer]

Jeremy,
Tough luck on the bolt breaking. Sometimes when they are made they have imperfections in em. As far as the extractor goes. I've used em several times. the secret is take your time. Make sure that the pilot hole is as close to dead center as you can get it. Use some oil to lubricate the threads. don't force it be gentle.

[Allen Bookout]

If it broke off that easy it must be a cheap grade bolt so I would not suspect that you will have any trouble getting it out. Also I would pick up some stainless steel bolts and use them. They are tough and will not rust. Allen

[Doug Shepard]

If the bolt was going in smoothly you might be able to put a shallow slot in the end of it then use a screwdriver to turn it out. A Dremel would slot it quickly if you can do it without touching the saw. Otherwise a narrow cold chisel. If that doesn't work you can still drill it out to get a screw extractor into it.

[Larry Cooke]

I was installing the back rail for the accu-fence. It's attached with two 5/16 hex bolts, into pre-tapped holes in the table.Jeremy, I'm not sure if you're aware of an issue with some of the PM2000's. Some of them were released with the wrong length bolts for the fence. One person actually cracked the cast iron table top. Apparently, they provided bolts that were approximately 2" in length, but should have been around 1" in length. If you have the longer bolts then you're lucky the bolt broke...

So, I plan to extract it tomorrow (I've gotta get a couple other things done tonight). I've got a drill-type bolt extractor that I've never yet had occasion to use- will I likely be able to get the bolt out without damaging the threads in the hole, or will I have to bore it out and tap it fresh? Any suggestions on how to avoid a repeat?
E-Z outs are pretty easy to use, just take your time! Be careful to center your center punch on the broken bolt and carefully drill it making sure you stay on center. (Tip, I have been known to use a sharpened 16 penny nail to make an initial dimple and then use a center punch to make a deeper punch mark for the actual drilling of the bolt. If you take your time and use a good sharp bit (so as not to have to apply a lot of pressure) you'll do just fine. I've removed a few bolts this way in my time. Patiences is a definate virtue here if you don't want to have to redrill the top and tap larger threads.

Good luck and congratulations on your new saw!

Larry

[chester stidham]

Get some high grade allen bolts they are the strongest bolts most hardwere stores have them. try to find american made bolts as there are some real cheap junk on the market from overseas and some time the manfactures get a good deal on them and try to save a few bucks but they should now that it's not worth there rep. :(

[Jason Morgan]

Jeremy,

I dont know if this is related, but I bought a PM64A a few years ago and had the exact same thing happen to me with two of the rear fence bolts. Went to sears, got the 3 piece extractor set, popped them out just fine, off to the orange borg, two stanless bolts later I was in business.

Good luck and have fun.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Jeremy, I'm not sure if you're aware of an issue with some of the PM2000's. Some of them were released with the wrong length bolts for the fence. One person actually cracked the cast iron table top. Apparently, they provided bolts that were approximately 2" in length, but should have been around 1" in length. If you have the longer bolts then you're lucky the bolt broke...

"Issue" ?? That's a tad more than an "issue." It's hard to believe that PM did that with the 2000. In another forum I recall a recent thread about Delta by some opoor guy who had to drill his brand new saw table to mount the factory fence. Delta managed to put the holes in the wrong places.

They think it's an "issue" also.

"By the little things one is proven."
Where did I read that ? Hmmmm.

I thinks it's inexcusable. I'd feel less strongly if these were WoodTek or Central Machinery tools because they don't raise one's expectations nor charge so dearly. The cost and hype of the PM and Delta lines gives rise to a reasonable expectation of quality.


On the up side I hear the PM 2000 has a sweet set of built in wheels. You just grank the blade raiser a few more turns (15) and go rolling around almost like it was on peneumatic tires.

[Steve Clardy]

I've noticed the last few years, that theres been a lot of cheap grade #2 bolts being sent out with new tools.

[Bruce Page]

I've noticed the last few years, that theres been a lot of cheap grade #2 bolts being sent out with new tools.

I wouldn't rate a lot of them even to grade 2 specs. I set up my Unisaw with all grade 5 and grade 8 bolts & nuts.