What is a good bandsaw blade config for blanks?

[Curtis O. Seebeck]

I need to get a couple of new bandsaw blades but it has been so long since I last ordered that I don't remember what is the best configuration for teeth, etc. Can someone please give some recommendations?

[John Hart]

Hey Curtis,
My favorite is 1/2" - 4 TPI. Any wider and I get some binding...any narrower and it tends to walk.

[Raymond Overman]

A 3/8 Timberwolf 3 TPI AS series blade is what I use.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Well, I only have one bandsaw, and one bandsaw blade, it is 2 1/2" wide, I just chop off pieces until I get a sort of round blank I think you would be better to go with the 1/2" 4tpi or so. Cheers!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Curtis I use a 1/2" 3tpi Timberwolf. I also use a 3/8" 6 tpi. Both work great.

[Frank Fusco]

I recently replaced my 'do-it-all' 3/8"X6tpi blade with several different ones. Including a 3/4"X3TPI Timberwolf. That has not been off the bandsaw since I got it. Not the thing for curves, of course, but general cutting, including resawing blanks, it's the cat's meow. A real hoss. My bandsaw is the popular Grizzly 14" G0555. Without riser, I cut hardwoods up to 6" thick without it breathing hard.

[Jim Stoppleworth]

Curtis,

I use a 1/2" or 3/8" Timberwolf 3TPI. Both work quite well. I've cut bowl stock 12" thick on my 17" bandsaw.

Stoppy

[Dominic Greco]

Back when I first started wood turning, I called Suffolk Machinery/Timberwolf to order some bandsaw blades. The Tech there asked me what type of work I was planning to do, and I replied, "Cutting up turning blanks". He then advised me to get the 3/8" x 3 tpi AS blade. This blade is made to cut up wet wood. It also works wonders on resawing logs into planks.

For the past 5 years I've been using these types of blades and could not be happier with them. They work just as advertised and will cut through just about any wood I've thrown on the bandsaw.

[Joe Fisher]

The only caveat with the AS series is wheel size. They don't recommend them on smaller saws, because the metal they use to make the blades is thicker (0.032 as opposed to 0.025), resulting in greater bending stresses around small wheels.

I don't know what the cutoff is, but they said I shouldn't use them on my 12" bandsaw.

Once I get that 18" monster, I won't have to worry about such trivialties. MUAHAHAHAhahahahahaa...

*ahem* Excuse me.

AH! Here we go. From the Suffolk Machinery website (emphasis mine):


THE AS: This series of blades are unique in their body thickness, set, and rake angle. They are .032" thick, have a full alternate set and a unique rake angle of 8.5°. They also utilize the unique geometry of our PC gullet. These blades are primarily used in the furniture industry. They have been designed to cut both fast and accurately in very thick wood such as stacked lumber. Wood-turners use these blades to cut turnings out of large burls and green logs. Their applications are endless. Their performance is excellent if the thickness of your material exceeds 6 to 8 inches These blades are not meant to be used on three wheel band saws or any saw with less than a 90" blade length or a wheel diameter of less than 14". These blades are available in 3/8" and 1/2" widths and 3 tpi only. These blades are specially priced. See "Vertical Band Pricing".. (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/swedish.html)


-Joe

[Jim Becker]

1/2" Timberwolf AS (which is designed for wet wood) is my normal choice. The 3/8" version might be better if you cut smaller blanks most of the time.

[Curtis O. Seebeck]

Thanks guys. Just what I needed. I know all about bandsaw blades for my sawmill but not for the bandsaw! My mill takes a 1 1/4" 7/8" pitch blade and cuts like the devil. I just want to start using the bandsaw for rounding blanks once chopped up on the mill. Thanks again!

Oh, here is a couple of pictures of my mill for anyone interested (since you all seem to like pictures:) :

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/MesquiteMan/39938a09.jpg
Big old walnut log someone gave me

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a340/MesquiteMan/mill.jpg
Big mesqutie log. The spray can is there for size reference.

[John Hart]

Nice Saw Curtis. I just surfed around to get pricing. Too steep.:( I really want to cut my own wood and have a kiln. Some day!:rolleyes:

[Jim Becker]

Nice Saw Curtis. I just surfed around to get pricing. Too steep.:( I really want to cut my own wood and have a kiln. Some day!:rolleyes:

John, you just need to figure out how much material you can cut and sell to pay for the machine in a reasonable time while covering your personal lumber needs...I'd consider it myself, except I have less than zero time to to such work!

[Joe Fisher]

Mmmm, P'Blaster :) Great stuff :) Nice pix!

-Joe

[Dick Strauss]

Curtis,
I've tried the 3/8" and 1/2" (3 TPI) blades for my BS. The 3/8" 3 tpi seems to work much better for wet blanks. The turning radius on the 1/2" is a little long. If you have a smallish 3/4-1HP 14" saw like I've got, you'll find that you bog down the saw while making the turns with the 1/2" blade.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

A tip on cutting wet wood, get some PAM non-stick cooking spray, and spray your blade lightly, inside and out, makes a HUGE difference in how the blade goes through the wood, and the blade does not get easily covered in gunk from the wet wood.

Works like a charm, and is not going to stain the wood etc.

Cheers!

PS thanks to Mr. John Lucas @ woodshopdemos for that tip :D

[Frank Fusco]

Curtis, thanks for making us all jealous. :rolleyes: Nice saw. Nice hunka mesquite too.

[Dennis Peacock]

I use 3/8" Timberwolf 3TPI. Great blade!!!

Hey Curtis.....I've been researching Bandmills....PM me on how you like yours.

[Tom Stover]

Curtis, that was just a stealth gloat. We talk about the blades on our puny saws and you show pictures of that mill. ;) And look at all those logs laying back there. :D :D :)