Shelf pin jigs.

[Michael Ballent]

I am looking at making a bookshelf with adjustable shelves. The obvious trick would be drilling for the shelf pins. Shop time is limited so I would prefer not to build the jig myself, so what commercial jigs are out there. Would 32mm be better than 1" or does it really matter?

I have seen the one that Norm use, but it's mucho bucks and seems that aligning to a centerline could invite problems (besides I hate measuring). Got a DW router, and various drills, and a drill press to boot, so pretty much making the holes is not a problem, it's getting that "pro look" for the spacing. :rolleyes:

TIA

[Jamie Buxton]

I use one from Woodhaven (http://www.woodhaven.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=38). Others sell similar templates for similar prices -- well less than the fancy thing Nawm uses. I strongly recommend a plunge router. Compared to a drill, it offers better depth control, less splintering at the point of entry, and the holes are assured to be at right angles to the workpiece. For simple shelving there isn't any big difference among inch or 32 mm spacing, or 1/4" and 5 mm holes. Of course, if you want to start hanging Eurohinges or drawer slides with these holes, you want 32 mm and 5 mm.

[Steve Clardy]

I use Rocklers. 1" spacing. 7m and 1/4" pin size drills.
I use the 1/4".
Have to usually sharpen their bits. Their not really sharp when new.

[Don Baer]

Michael,
If you got a fence for your drill press simply put one of those L brackets on the fence the distance from the bit you want your spacing for the holes and with the hole in the bracket the distance away from the fence that will equal the distance the holes will be from the side of the wood.

1. Drill your first hole.
2. Move the wood the required distance to align with the hole in the bracket
3 Put a pin through the bracket in the wood
4. drill next hole
5. remove pin
6. go to step 2

:D

[frank shic]

michael, you can use the rockler drill guide as steve recommended but i would strongly recommend using a 3/8 router bushing with a 1/4" downcut spiral bit to get perfect results - the drill bit just doesn't cut the holes as cleanly as i would have liked.

[jim chambers]

Ditto Frank's reply. Not only are the holes much nicer, it's impossible to go too deep with a plunge router and it is at least 4 times faster.

regards,

jimc

[David Klug]

I've had good luck using a strip of 1/4" peg board.S

DK

[Michael Ballent]

Thanks for your suggestions... I ran across the Veritas Shelf jig/32mm Cabinetmaker set to drill the holes, and I have found some people are using a router with a bushing to make the holes rather than using the drill.

Also on using the drill and holes do not look as good as the ones from the router, could it be that the you guys are using cordless drills that spin slower than corded ones? I have both corded and cordless drills so I could try both.

Link to Veritas shelf pin jig:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32251&cat=1,180,42311

Link to Veritas 32mm system:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42200&cat=1,180,42311

Either of these would make the shelf pins, one would give me the added ability to make cabinets with it... So anyone have one of these and tried to us the router?

[Dave Falkenstein]

Michael - you have a great excuse to buy yet another Festool product:

http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=489270&ID=4

[Michael Ballent]

Michael - you have a great excuse to buy yet another Festool product:

http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=489270&ID=4

Well I think that would require the OF1400 router (or the little one) as well so now we are talking some serious money :D I just have the lowly DW618 and a Fein that is permanently attached to the Legacy Ornamental Mill, so LOML would not be pleased to have me get more routers :(

[Steve Clardy]

I use a cordless drill, and do not have any tearout issues, AFTER sharpening the bits than come with the rockler unit:)

[Joe Chritz]

I have to be the outsider here and I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from buying a new tool but...

This is what I use. It took about 20 minutes to make and about 5 to do a cabinet side. I use a Bosch plunge router with 1/2 bushing and 1/4" downcut bit and don't have a clear base so there is a learning curve in finding the holes. 1/2" holes 1 1/2" apart starting 6" from the bottom. A piece of something (I used brass) turned to 1/2 with a 1/4" round end will reposition it for runs longer than a base cab.

I have used a standard two flute bit with good results before my spiral came in.

I would be concerned about tipping with a router on the commerical jigs but with a sharp bit a decent drill should do ok.

Joe

[Keith Christopher]

I made a jig using hardboard, the ones with the holes in it. They're 1" on center and it works perfectly for me. Align the edge board with the center of the first holes and then I can space in inches apart and inches in easily.Has worked for me for a few years now.

[PeterTorresani]

I built a jig similar to Joe's with an edge guide to keep it parallel. Easy to build. Easier to use. Perfect results.

I believe I got the idea from Bill Hylton's book.

[Larry Norton]

Michael, I made one that couldn't be easier. I used a piece of 3/4in. ply,although a piece of 1/2 would be better. I drilled 5/8in. holes every 1-1/2in. and used a plunge router with a quarter in. bit. I can't remember the distance from the edge, but it's what all the jigs use. I cut the ply so it was the same distance from both sides. That way, you can use it on each side without turning it over. Paint one end black so you will always use it on the bottom. I also drilled a quarter inch hole on the black painted end that is 1-1/2in. down from the first 5/8in. This way, if I need to drill more holes, I can stick a 1/4in. dowel in the one on the jig and the last hole in the side of the project.

Let me know if you need any more info.

Larry

[Pete Harbin]

Cordless drill, depth collar and some 1/4" pegboard (with a little fence tacked on) here. Worked like a charm.

Pete

[Brad Schmid]

Michael,

To answer your question, yes, I have the Veritas shelf pin jig. I use both corded and cordless drills with it. I don't seem to have any problem with tearout, at least with the woods i typically work with. I am happy with the quality of the tool and it's ease of use.
Cheers

[Bill Neely]

I made mine with 3/8" x 4" aluminum bar stock. I used an indexing pin on my drill press, drilling 3/8" holes on 1" centers, then I used a countersink to slighly ease the edge of the hole.

I drilled and tapped holes along the edge for long allen screws and used allen nuts for the actual guide pins.

I use a small plunge router (Makita 3621) with a 3/8" template guide bushing and 1/4" bit.

You could make it with any spacing you like. The last hole on each end is 1/4' inch so I can hang it on a pin and continue the line of holes for length I need.