Glueing up pen blanks...

[Tom Crockett]

So what I've experienced so far is: Blanks glued up with CA seem to split out more often than epoxy, and when either of them split out, there doesn't seem to be a good coverage of glue on the blank. I tried some gorilla glue tonight and found it quicker and easier to use. Hopefully as people have said about GG, it will expand and bond better.

I still wonder though how good a bond I am getting because even as the video shows to spin the sleeve while inserting it, I believe most of the glue is left behind.

Does anybody try to coat both the sleeve and the blank with adhesive to achieve a better bond?

[Corey Hallagan]

You will probably get alot of opinions on this. I don't like to use CA, that was the only one that failed on me. I have used the PSI epoxy ever since and have not had a problem. Some people really like the poly but I haven't used it, I have just stuck with what is working. I
coat the tube well with the epoxy and use a insertion tool and twirl it around inside. Don't forget to rough up the tubes. I don't try to coat the inside, it think that will be pretty messy. I use a end mill with the tube insert on it to clean up the inside of the tube and then any glue reside left inside I use a round chain saw file to clean it up.
Corey

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Well, here's my experience with CA. I've made over 800 pens and almost all are with CA. Never used Epoxy. I find Gorilla type glues VERY messy.

The method I use with the CA is as follows:

1. Make sure you burnish the brass tubes by sanding them lightly. This can be done on the mandrel, very quickly.

2. apply CA to one end of the tube.

3. Insert it in and remove it from the blank a few times, while twirling it.

4, Reverse the blank and do step 3 again and slide the tube into its final position.

5. Let it rest for about 15 - 20 minutes, or spritz the ends with accelorater.

6, trim with a pen mill and you are ready to go.

Give it a try. I have only had about 8 blowouts with this method and several of them were Burl or Punky wood.

Bruce

[John Hart]

I'm an epoxy guy. I make sure my tubes are roughed up and apply the epoxy to the end and rotate it in. I like to use 220 to rough the tube axially because I figger the scratches will carry the epoxy into the blank better. I haven't had a glue failure since I started doing this. (knocking on wood);)

[Blake McCully]

Tom,
Like Bruce, I use CA almost exclusively (I discussed this in an earlier post). What type of CA do you use. When a buddy of mine first started making pens he blew out just about everyone. When he asked me about it, he told me he was using thin CA. I told him to switch to either medium or more preferrably the thick. I use only thick CA now, the stuff with the green label from Woodcraft. I usually put two or three stripes of glue on the tube, after ruffing them up, and spin them as I put them in. Some folks will put glue in the blank and on the tube. I'm too slow, every time I try that I end up with about half the tube sticking out of the blank, dang I hate when that happens.

[Keith Christopher]

I use CA sometimes, but lately I've been using a poly glue (GG) because I get a more complete coverage. and with the bigger drill bits vibration can become a problem thus making the hole a little oversized. This gap equals an almost certain blow out once the stock gets thin. The poly glue like eppoxy fills the gaps quite nicely and I haven't had ebony split when using GG but almost certainly when using CA.


just my .02


Keith

[Tom Crockett]

Well guys, that's about what I expected to hear from ya'all. Some folks have trouble with CA and some folks don't. Interesting from Bruce however, that he does slide the sleeves in and out a few times and then reverses them and re-installs. That makes me feel better about getting a better coverage by dragging more glue in.

I think I'll see how the GG blanks I did last night hold up and maybe even try the multi insertion process. The CA glue I was using was the thick btw, just didn't seem to drag into the blank well.

Thanks again for the info:) :) :)

[Mike Vickery]

I do not feal that coverage is as important as alot of people think. As long as you get a good bond it should be okay. Personally I think Poly glue is perfect for glueing tubes, however I find it messy and I do not like to wait 24 hours to turn. I have tried all 3 glues and settled on epoxy. Lately I switch from 5 minute epoxy to 90 second epoxy and it has worked great and is ready to turn in about7 to 10 minutes.

[Jim Sample]

another 2 cents

I ruff the tubes with 220 sand paper, I have tried GG, what a mess. I use CA gel or thick which seems to bond very well, spirl it around the tube 3-4 times, spray accelerator in the blank hole, and using an insertion tool slip the blank over the tube turning it as it goes in. A couple of hours later, I use a pen mill to clean up the ends and inside of the tube.

I get very few blow ups following this proceedure. Probably turned 200+ pens this way.

Jim Sample :) :)

[Thomas Canfield]

I have had very good luck with polyurethane glue and not had a big mess of it. I rough up the tube OD lightly with 120 grit emery cloth, plug the ends with wax (mixture of beeswax and toilet bowl ring approx 1/8" thick), and use a large pipe cleaner folded to liberally swab the glue down the bore hole. I use a special stick (scrap) to push the tube through about 1/4" and then recenter it. The blanks are set on wax paper over newspaper to dry overnight and then the excess glue is trimmed and wax removed prior to using the end mill. I have not found any hollow spots or had any blowouts after about 50 or so pens. The glueing operation usually occurs at the kitchen table while I am watching TV so it is not a mess or there would be trouble in the house.

[Curtis O. Seebeck]

I guess I am the odd guy. I use epoxy but I use a stick that is small enough to fit in the blank hole and coat the entire inside liberally with the epoxy. I then use some plumbers putty as a plug in the end of the tube and twirl it in. That way I do not have to deal with the tube covered in glue. I have never had a failure, even with 90 degree cross cut spalted blanks (my favorite) Works well for me.

[Frank Fusco]

This is a constant subject on the pen turning forums. I use 5 min. epoxy. Easy, gives time to work and thick enough to fill misteaks. Very important is roughing the tubes, I use 60 grit sandpaper. Completely coating the tube is crucial, twisting as you insert to make sure the entire interior is glued. Shared findings by penturners have revealed that blow-outs almost always happen at points where there is no glue. For some blanks, like burls and segmented, first coating the interior with CA then letting dry gives extra grip before glueing in the tube. With some woods CA will grip instantly not allowing full insertion. I don't like it because it dries too fast. Polys a simply a mess and sometimes will push out the tubes as it dries, then you have a problem and double mess. CA and poly fans may now respond. ;)