Recent cabinets I've built

[John Sherrod]

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Well, this is the progress I have so far on m y sisters' kitchen set. there are a couple of more shots that I will post in the next blog. I have never done this kind of thing before, but I am somewhat pleased with the results so far.

[John Sherrod]

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This one for some reason has taken the most time for me. I have been learning as I go along and this one just frustrated me to no end. lol. And I am thoroughly convinced that whoever designed the little brass nails for the standards for the shelves has never even SEEN a normal sized , bear paw padded woodworker.. Sheeesh, I have to use a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the nail while hammering it in.. ah well, like I said, it is all a new learning thing for me.

[Steve Clardy]

Looking great John!!
If I use shelf standards, I use the screws to attach, not those tiny nails.

[John Sherrod]

Thank you. What length and type of screw do you use to attach them with?

[Steve Clardy]

#4 by 1/2"

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Nice casework. Can't wait to see it finished.

[frank shic]

john, that's pretty funny what you said about the corner cabinet being such a pain to build. if it's any consolation, many of the professional cabinetmakers on woodweb hate them just as much and usually design them out of the kitchen from the get-go. still, i'd love the challenge of building one of those angled monstrosities - once i can afford a bigger home with a bigger kitchen!

[John Sherrod]

I know, it is expensive. If I didn't love my sister so much I wouldn't even attempt it. But she and I went to lowezs and saw a set there that she liked, and it was (i wish i was kidding) 15,000.00. I couldn't believe it. I told her that for about a third of that much, I could build her the same thing, and better, actually, because instead of the reverse bits used on the rails and stiles, I do a full mortise and tenon with the floating panels inside. And overkill on the drawers with full through dovetails along with the floating bases. I am waiting until the old cabinets are torn out before I build the bases for them. There is no telling where the line is needed to match up with the flooring until it is laid bare. She recently had the floors retiled and said that they moved out some things, but not others in the kitchen, so I am playing it safe.

[John Sherrod]

I am also making the top cabinets with as many different heigths as [possible, to give it a completely custom look. I have looked at alot of different cabinet catalogs and it seems thet the highest end cabinets have differing heigths. And my sis wants that too. I have a long list of things yet to do, all of which will be new, like a top cabinet pullout spice rack, a dovetailed trash bin pullout, sinkfront trays that are concealed until needed using the filler face plate. and a corner lazy susan. Thank goodness for Rockler. I found all of the doo dads and specialty things i needed her to get there. I am tossing around the idea of having brass wiring as panels for two of the doors above the stove, which is thwe only place it could go, btu then I think that being that close to the boiling water and such would make them grungy in no time. hah well.

[Narayan Nayar]

Those are looking great, John. I'm wondering--what kind of sheet goods are you using, and if you're using a router panel bit set, which one?

[John Sherrod]

the wood is Birch, 3/4" I got at lowes. I counted and there are 9 plys. The doors are done with the delta tenoning jig and the jet mortiser. For the slot for the panels I used the blade that I normally have in the table saw, and just turned the boards end for end so that the slot would be centered. I found out that the slot needs to be just a slight bit wider for the 1/4" bich panels, so I have to just run a screwdriver flatly along the inside of the slot to take out the ribbon in the middle.The fun part is making sure that the board does not go past where the blade protrudes. To make sure that that doesn't happen, I put witness marks on the fence so I know whwere it starts and where it ends.

[frank shic]

how are you cutting those M&T joints, john? BTW, are you using the adjustable leg levelers that they sell at rockler's as well? they're pricey at $10 for four of them, but they're priceless when it comes time to install.

[John Sherrod]

lol, I have a whole trash bin full of levellers, - shims. I always keep the scraps for just such things. I Use the tenoning jig on my table saw and then nibble away at teh part closest to the outside so that it doesn't show. The mortising is done with my dedicated mortiser and a 1/4" cisel bit. I also found out that the surest way to make sure that they fit properly and to not have one side protruding is to run the mortiser with the borad facing both ways, meaning do it with the board on one side, and then turn it around and do it again to center it. THEN I make the tenons.