Deck Material Ipe

[Jim Benante]

I searched the threads and did not find much about experiences with using Ipe as a deck material. I am planning to redo my front entryway and am searching for the best materila to use. My front door is acually on one level up so I will need to build some stairs. Currently it has one set of stairs a landing and then another set of stairs up to the landing where the front door is.

Any advice on using Ipe?

[Jim O'Dell]

Everything I've read on Ipe says that using it for a deck is the perfect job for it. I used a piece as a threshold for my shop, 10' wide double swing out door and it is holding up very well. Hard as heck on cutting tools, though. Jim.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Some sources say you don't ever need to finish IPE. I dunno 'bout whether that's accurate.

If you plan on applying a finish take a look at this company:
<< http://www.epoxysystems.com/ >>
Take a look at their single and two part urethanes. They are absolutely astounding being able to last in full outdoor exposure for 20 years or more even on spruce, which moves all over the place. Unlike paint these coatings penetrate and bond.

I'd call them and ask for technical and specifically inquire about applying over IPE.

[Mike Parzych]

I got some to experiment with and it's like iron in terms of strength and hardness. It would definitely require pre-drilling/countersinking for screws and is the kind of lumber that would snap screws off if you run them in too far/fast. But it's used on many large outdoor projects, even those near the ocean. I don't know about finishing it, but it naturally seems very impervious.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I have seen ipe used on a couple of decks, and it makes a beautiful surface. The decks I saw were 4/4 ipe, and required joists on 18 inch centers, rather than the more typical 24 inch centers for 2X redwood.

[Brian Hale]

We're building our deck with Ipe. Beautiful wood and tuff as all get out.

A couple thoughts...

It's very heavy, heavier than oak.

All screws must be drilled and countersunk. Make sure to drill through the wood with a large enough bit that the threads of the screw pass easily.

Seal all cut ends.

For some, the splinters can hurt like alcohol on a paper cut. Since the wood is so hard, it's also brittle so make sure to pull the splinter out in the same direction it went in.

Don't try to force the boards together by more than a small amount, they will go where they want to go.

Sharp tools are a must. Carbide saw blades and good quality HSS drill bits.

In general the boards will be very straight and flat when you get them and overall is a nice wood to work with.

Brian :)

[DougButterfield]

I'm just about done building an Ipe' deck right now. Most beautiful material I've ever imagined for a deck. If you're looking for information on the material itself, visit http://www.homeressources.com/forum/list.php?f=7 and http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/porch/ . You could spend weeks reading up on the subject. I will say this...you don't need to overthink it. If you're comfortable woodworking, you'll have the tools & knowhow to work with the stuff. Carbide everything. Treat it as though you were working with Oak, or the like. Predrill everything, seal the endcuts, 1x material will span 16" with absolutely no deflection.OC, 5/4" material will span 24" OC. Use no more than a 4 penny finish nail for spacing between boards, and make sure you let the material acclimate to your neck of the woods before you begin your project. The stuff wants to lay flat, but some boards do want to bow...you need a bow-wrench to get it in line..forget about using anything else...it's just too tough, even the 1x material. Again, either of these sites will keep you busy reading for weeks if you want them to. Best of luck.

[Richard Gillespie]

Was asked to build a rocking chair out of the scraps left over from a customer's deck project. As everyone says, wood is hard, hard on tools and beautiful. Used polyurethane glue due to woods oily nature. Chair was finished with Danish Oil. Looked great and customer was well satisfied.

The scraps left from that, I brought home. Been making pens out of it. The wood works well with lathe tools and finishes nicely.

[Jim Benante]

Anyone have tips or procedures for finishing ipe? I am not sure I want to let it grey as it will be the front entryway to the house and I want to showcase the wood's beauty a bit.

[Jim Becker]

My friend Russ, who is quite a good cabinetmaker, re-did his deck in Ipe a couple years ago. It looks OUTSTANDING. He used EBTY hidden fasteners and Sikkens as a finish. While it is graying out a little...something you cannot stop...it really looks wonderful. If I were ever to build a wooden deck (I don't prefer them), I would likely opt for Ipe for anything visible. Beautiful stuff.

Please note it's also tough stuff and requires good and sharp carbide tooling. You MUST pre-drill for fasteners.

[Charlie Plesums]

I have had fairly good luck with Cabots Australian Timber Oil as a finish for ipe. The first oil I used just washed off ... then someone recommended Cabots which is formulated for hardwoods that don't readily absorb oils. It held up much better. In a heavy weather area you may still need to recoat every year or two, if you want to keep the "mahogany furniture" look. If it does gray, you can power wash, then start the sealing cycle.

I used Anchorseal to seal the end grain... one dealer recommended doing it within 10 minutes of making a cut

[Jim Benante]

How did you apply the Cabots Austrailian Timber Oil and how many coats did you use?

Anyone heard of a product called EXP? Has anyone used Sikkens products on Ipe?

[Bill Lewis]

I'm getting geared up to build my deck this spring/summer. Do you have a price per square foot for Ipe? I realize it'll be different in my area, probably much higher.

Right now I'm looking at using Evergrain, a composite decking material. It's a bit harder than Trex, and looks better too. It runs about 5% over the cost of Trex or about a dollar a board higher. I'll be buying all of my material from a local lumberyard, I know they either have, or can get ipe, I just haven't gotten around to asking yet, I'm still working on my support framing cut sheet. My deck will be 461 sq. ft. (34x14, minus a little)

[Charlie Plesums]

How did you apply the Cabots Austrailian Timber Oil and how many coats did you use?...
Rubber gloves, a rag, and a sponge brush to get between the boards - I was building ipe outdoor furniture, not a deck. It ate up the sponge brush and cheap gloves.

One coat, which has lasted close to a year in Texas (it's finally ready for the second coat). I doubt if a second coat would have helped it last year... other than occasional touch up to ask forgiveness for the applicator.


I'm getting geared up to build my deck this spring/summer. Do you have a price per square foot for Ipe? I realize it'll be different in my area, probably much higher. ...
I get it from one of the importers (Everwood Decking Partners, www.ipe-wood.com (http://www.ipe-wood.com) ) so you probably would get the same price, but have to pay shipping. Last summer it was $2.40 per linear foot for 5/4 x 6 (actual 1 x 5 1/2). They also have 5/4 x 4 for $1.47 per linear foot - cheaper per square foot, but more labor.

[Ken Seiler]

I installed ipe on our deck and was considering a sealer until installation time. This was August 2002 and it was close to 106 degrees. The dark wood was almost too hot to handle and we got to thinking abour trying to walk on the deck in the summer time. We were planning on using Messmers Deck Sealer but returned it for credit.

We also used some for stairs. The finish was Street Shoe, an epoxy type sealer used for commercial applications.

We liked it so much we used it for the boat docks. The decking was installed with Ebty fasteners but we drilled and just stainless steel screws for the dock.

The decking has turned a slivery gray in color. No change to the stairs.

[Chip Charnley]

I have a front entry porch done in IPE and finished with Sikkens last year. I'll try to get a picture and post it this evening but, to date, it's held up quite well.

[Jim Benante]

I'm getting geared up to build my deck this spring/summer. Do you have a price per square foot for Ipe? I realize it'll be different in my area, probably much higher.


I am getting the just about the same prices as Charlie mentioned. $2.37/lineal foot for 5/4. I spoke with East Teak in Sultan, WA. I live nearby and have heard good things about them, but haven't seen their product first hand yet. In speaking with my neighbor I have come to find he just opened an account with them last week. He sells lumber strapping. He is going to try and get me a discount. It came up in coversation and he offered. I have my fingers crossed.

Now I need to figure out how to design my deck. I think I am going to go with about the same design as I currently have, but want it to be a little larger than it is currently.

Here it what it currently looks like. If anyone has any ideas I am all ears.

I'll have to try posting pictures later, I am unable to do so for some reason.

[Jim Benante]

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/benanteji/Desktop/Front%20of%20House.JPG


Ok I just had to shrink them down. If they are past a certain size limit it gives a different error message than if they are close to the size limit.

[John Shuk]

My front porch is Ipe and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I love the stuff.

[Bill Lewis]

The last deck I built was almost twice the square footage of the deck for this house, and it cost me less to build than just what the ipe would cost to do this deck. Ain't it amazing!? Of course I didn't use any "low maintenence" material on that deck either.

I should have also asked the question earlier, how does the price of ipe compair to trex etc... 10%:) , 25%:( , 50%:eek: higher? I will get around to getting accurate answers from the yard, but right now I'm just getting a feel for the numbers to see where I'm at. My best guesstimate is that this deck is going to cost me about $5-$6k for materials.

[DougButterfield]

I'm a huge fan of TWP Rustic 116 for a finish. It's kinda like laquer in that one coat will bond with the last so you can apply multiple coats in a build-up finish, yet it won't peal like a build up of other products. To be honest, though, you'll get 100 opinions on what is the best finish for Ipe'.

As for East Teak, call George there at their east coast number. He'll walk you through the whole process of buying and using Ipe'. He'll be more than happy to estimate your needs if you shoot him over your deck plans. I'll swear by anything that man has to say about the stuff.

[Ole Anderson]

Here is some info on deck material, including Great Lakes pricing for those of us not on the coast.
http://www.theworkbench.com/decking.php