BLO = food safe finish?

[Tom Jones III]

I was reading a Richard Raffan book on turning bowls and in the section on Finishing, he mentions that when he has to put a finish on a bowl he really likes BLO covered with soft beeswax. He then mentions that a bowl finished this way can be washed using soap and water. Immediately before and after this section he is discussing food safe bowls. The implication is that BLO and beeswax is food safe although he does not come right out and say that directly.

Does anyone know about BLO and beeswax being food safe? Did I just misread the chapter? What is the point of Beeswax anyway, is it just to seal in the finish so that it does not have to be renewed?

[Joe Fisher]

A wood bowl finished in any way should only be cleaned with soap and water.

BLO is food safe. I wouldn't want to drink it, but in the amount one would be exposed to from a bowl's finish, it should be perfectly safe.

The beeswax gives a nice low-gloss sheen, and acts as a protectant. Kinda like Turle Wax on your car. It looks great for a while, and protects the paint underneath, but eventually will need to be reapplied.

I use the caranuba wax applied with the Beal buffing system. Here's a piece that doesn't have any finish on it other than the caranuba. You can see the nice satin finish.

http://www.fisherwoodcraft.com/images/hickory_box1.jpg

-Joe

[Bernie Weishapl]

Tom I am interested in this post to as I had read the same thing in Raffans book. I have also read a lot of people are starting to use Urethane Oil on bowls that is suppose to be completely food safe after curing and puts a tough finish that doesn't need to be renewed like a lot of the rest. Interested in hearing more. Thanks for bringing that up.

[Don Orr]

To add to what Joe said, in general opinion among woodworkers and finish (not Finnish:D ) chemists, any CURED finishing product can be food safe as long as it is completely CURED. That means that all the polymerization that is going to take place HAS taken place. At that point they become effectively inert. The solvents have evaporated completely.The problem with BLO is that it takes a long time to completely cure-even if it is "boiled". I'm talking weeks, even months. Similar for Tung oil by the way. Cleaning should really be only with MILD soap and water and dried right away.
Beeswax is really a temporary surface coating that is very soft and wears away easily from an item that gets used a lot. It is fairly easy to re-apply and rub to a nice soft sheen though. It can help keep water out of the wood to some extent. Beeswax is not a hard wax, and waxes are not as durable as a true polymerizing finish.
There are much more knowledgeable people out there than I, but this is what I have learned in the past several years of reading and talking to those in the field.
Good luck and Hey, show us what you're making!!

[Reed Gray]

Bob Flexner has addressed this issue a couple of times. As I understand it, the solvents in the oil finishes are the toxic parts, and once they have evaporated, what is left is 'inert material'. I like walnut oil and beeswax. It is easiest to apply, and replenish.
robo hippy

[Dennis Peacock]

Don and Reed are right on!!!!! Practically any finish is food safe when given time to cure. It just takes several days to several weeks for some finishes to cure completely.

[George Troy Hurlburt]

I don't use BLO for any reason. Besides the drying aspects you also need to be concern about rags igniting. Perserve is best for wood and food use. You can read all about it here. No waiting, you can use immediately. GT

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/2E0E8F86/mac/qryitems.mac/itemDisplay?lenSgDsc=4OILSOILS&qryType=GRPSG

[Jim Becker]

All finishes sold today are "food safe" when fully cured...including BLO.

[Jim Davenport]

I've tried "BLO". What I really like is Watco oil. I tried it after watching Bill Grumbines Video. It's very easy to use, even for me.:rolleyes:
I just got a "Beall buff kit", I'm going to try that when I get some time.

[Garry Smith]

I've tried "BLO". What I really like is Watco oil. I tried it after watching Bill Grumbines Video. It's very easy to use, even for me.:rolleyes:
I just got a "Beall buff kit", I'm going to try that when I get some time.

Jim, how long does it take for the Watco Oil to cure to the point that the oder is not noticed any longer?

[George Troy Hurlburt]

When I was doing Renaissance Festivals a few years ago I made many goblets for feast use and wine drinking. Watco has a terrible bitter taste, I suggest after it dries you drink from those items which you have used Watco or other. As I recall I ended up using some other brands of finishing oil like salad bowl dressing. GT

[Jim Davenport]

Jim, how long does it take for the Watco Oil to cure to the point that the oder is not noticed any longer?
You can put two coats on in about an hour. It's completly dry to handle in 8-10 hours. It's odor free in about 72 hours.