table overhead guard

[Mike Stanton]

In the new wood mag. there is a overhead guard from penn state. What do you think of it is it any good? I have an jet contractor saw. Mike

[Jim Becker]

In the new wood mag. there is a overhead guard from penn state. What do you think of it is it any good? I have an jet contractor saw. Mike

The PSI guard still closely resembles the Exactor, but at a still lower price. It's not nearly as beefy as the Excalibur, but a good value. I encourage folks to use overarm guards...because they are easy to use and therefore, get used, unlike the PITA guards that come with most saws.

Further, overarm guards with dust collection are the only way to really capture the dust and chips coming off the top of the blade on through cuts.

Don't forget you need a splitter separately from the overarm guard.

I have a review of both the Excalibur guard and the Beisemeyer splitter on my site. While you may choose different products, these reviews may be useful to you relative to how these things install on your saw.

[Matt Woodworth]

I have a review of both the Excalibur guard and the Beisemeyer splitter on my site. While you may choose different products, these reviews may be useful to you relative to how these things install on your saw.

I feel like I have a lot in common with you. I also have a review of the Excalibur. I also but a folding outfeed table. I also built children's bedroom furniture.

Mike, if you go to my site you should find my Excalibur review in the tool reviews section.

[Tom Leavitt]

Hello Mike Stanton in OR,

I have read that the OH Blade Guard from PSI is difficult to use because you have to raise it to the height of the material you are cutting (it doesn't smoothly raise up as you pass the material initially). This is just hearsay, though. I ordered one of these when Exaktor was the mfg for PSI but PSI stopped using Exaktor (couldn't fill the orders fast enough) and went overseas for a cheaper guard. I canceled my order and am still without an OH guard...(one day...).

Tom in Lake O.

[Jim Becker]

I have read that the OH Blade Guard from PSI is difficult to use because you have to raise it to the height of the material you are cutting (it doesn't smoothly raise up as you pass the material initially).

That's exactly the way I run my Excalibur guard...I position it to the height appropriate for the material I am cutting. I nevery use it in "full float" mode as I prefer it to be close to locked at a particular height. This provides a bit of extra protection should there be a kickback. That's one thing I like about the Excalibur...it can be run either way; floated or locked.

[Dave Arbuckle]

I have read that the OH Blade Guard from PSI is difficult to use because you have to raise it to the height of the material you are cutting (it doesn't smoothly raise up as you pass the material initially).
(quoted and commented on by Jim Becker)

Same as Jim here. I far prefer using my Excalibur with the height locked, just a hair over the stock. I don't recall ever having used it floating.

Dave

[John Miliunas]

(quoted and commented on by Jim Becker)

Same as Jim here. I far prefer using my Excalibur with the height locked, just a hair over the stock. I don't recall ever having used it floating.

Dave

Ditto to what Jim & Dave said. My Ex gets locked as a matter of some added protection. I do, however, sometimes leave it float when doing thin sheetgoods (or if I forget....). The one thing I did different on mine is, I don't use the support tube for the 3" dust collection. Instead, I "Y'd" off of my 4" duct going to the main TS port, put a 3" reducer and go directly to the guard's hood DC port. I just didn't like the way the stock 3" flex hose makes a complete 180* turn back into the main support tube. :cool:

[Larry Guthrie]

I bought a PSI guard about three months ago and I'm happy with it.

It's mounted on a PM 64A and I've only used it in the locked position.

The "hood" or basket is one piece plastic and gives you a good view of the cut.

I don't have any experience with the Excalibur, Exactor, Biesemeyer, Uniguard etc., so I can't really compare it.

I believe that Hoa Dinh over at Woodcentral also bought one and mounted his from the ceiling. The hardware for that type of installation is included.

Hope this helps.

Larry

[David LaRue]

I just posted my review of the Biesemeyer overarm guard tonight. It is the one the Kelly Mehler recommends in his reviews. I just installed it this week and only have cut a few things on it. My overall impression so far is very positive. It is very convenient to use and I can easily switch to my using my Dubby board, or Incra mitre gage. The Delta deluxe guard comes with a splitter. I had to modify it to work with my saw since I do not have a Delta.

Delta T-Square Overarm Guard Review (http://home.comcast.net/~mywoodshop/html/overarm_guard___splitters.html)

Bottom line: Pick one and get it! :)

Dave

[Charles McKinley]

Hi David,

What did you use to cut the splitter? I also got in on this deal. I added a piece of 1 3/4" square tube to make it work on my 50" rails.

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

The one thing I did different on mine is, I don't use the support tube for the 3" dust collection. Instead, I "Y'd" off of my 4" duct going to the main TS port, put a 3" reducer and go directly to the guard's hood DC port. I just didn't like the way the stock 3" flex hose makes a complete 180* turn back into the main support tube.

My guard is on a dedicated blast gate off the 5" drop to the TS. I generally don't run the guard and the saw cabinet at the same time and have no performance problems with the air flow through the guard's tube.

[David LaRue]

Hi David,

What did you use to cut the splitter? I also got in on this deal. I added a piece of 1 3/4" square tube to make it work on my 50" rails.

Thanks

For my Powermatic 66:
1. Used a drill bit to enlarge the top hole.
2. Then I simply used a hack saw and cut to the hole. (secured in a metal vice to hold it and prevent it from bending)
3. Cut the front leg shorter, then rounded it off with a file. You have to figure out jut how much to cut off here. Enough to clear the blade, but not too much...you need a nice beefy area to have your bolt go through, and your nut and washer to attach to.
4. File everything smooth after you are happy with it. (and the blade clears it in the up & down positions)

Finally,
Make sure that you line up the splitter to the blade when you are done. Also check to make sure that the splitter is flat & true, and is parallel to your mitre slot. I use my Super Bar to double check it. Then I'm sure it won't snag my work.

Note: Your mileage my vary. This may or may not work for your type of saw. Another option is simply to purchase the Snap In splitter from Biesemeyer, that is made for your saw.


Saw Safely!

Dave

[Brad Risley]

I bought a PSI guard about three months ago and I'm happy with it.

It's mounted on a PM 64A and I've only used it in the locked position.

The "hood" or basket is one piece plastic and gives you a good view of the cut.

I don't have any experience with the Excalibur, Exactor, Biesemeyer, Uniguard etc., so I can't really compare it.

I believe that Hoa Dinh over at Woodcentral also bought one and mounted his from the ceiling. The hardware for that type of installation is included.

Hope this helps.

Larry
Can the PSI guard be used in the floating mode? That would be my preference. I too am considering buying this guard.

[Tom Leavitt]

That's exactly the way I run my Excalibur guard...I position it to the height appropriate for the material I am cutting. I nevery use it in "full float" mode as I prefer it to be close to locked at a particular height. This provides a bit of extra protection should there be a kickback. That's one thing I like about the Excalibur...it can be run either way; floated or locked.

Jim and Dave A.,
For some reason I got it stuck in my head that I want the guard to be free floating in case I used it where the material would cause the hood to raise. I had read that the new PSI OHG would bind (not raise). My current stock guard does that and it drives me crazy! Sure would like to actually see and use one of these before getting one.

Thanks for the feedback, Tom

[David LaRue]

Jim and Dave A.,
For some reason I got it stuck in my head that I want the guard to be free floating in case I used it where the material would cause the hood to raise. I had read that the new PSI OHG would bind (not raise). My current stock guard does that and it drives me crazy! Sure would like to actually see and use one of these before getting one.

Thanks for the feedback, Tom

FYI,
The Biesemeyer is a floating design. With a knob, and nut, I can make it into a locking model, which I may do.

Dave

[Jim Shockey]

FYI,
The Biesemeyer is a floating design. With a knob, and nut, I can make it into a locking model, which I may do.

Dave

Dave, I have a home made splitter with 4 inch dust port that works great. When I use it floating it will put a lot of down pressure from the suction of the DC. I will lock it about 1/4 inch above the work and it works great. I can set it above the work a little but not lock it and then start the DC and it will draw it down to the work right now. It just feeds a lot better when it is locked up. Jim

[David LaRue]

Dave, I have a home made splitter with 4 inch dust port that works great. When I use it floating it will put a lot of down pressure from the suction of the DC. I will lock it about 1/4 inch above the work and it works great. I can set it above the work a little but not lock it and then start the DC and it will draw it down to the work right now. It just feeds a lot better when it is locked up. Jim


I have been toying in my head how to to both the DC and the lock down. I think I may go with a bicycycle type quick release to make it a non floating:

[Bob Oswin]

The PSI guard still closely resembles the Exactor, but at a still lower price. <snip>

I have a review of both the Excalibur guard and the Beisemeyer splitter on my site. While you may choose different products, these reviews may be useful to you relative to how these things install on your saw.

Jim:
How close to the fence can you use these devices practicallly?

bob

[Jim Becker]

Jim:
How close to the fence can you use these devices practicallly?

bob

With my Biesemeyer splitter, I can get as close as 1/8" since I have the pawls removed. (Not necessarily a recommended practice...it's safer to make the thin off-cuts on the outside of the blade) Practially 3/4" to 1" rips are fine with a push stick/block. Thinner stock I need to "finish" the cut by pulling through from the back, however, and since that requires pausing the cut, it's best to work with stock longer than you need in case there is any burning, scoring or other damage at the end of the stick.

You have to make a judgement call about using the splitter for thin cuts. It may be better to use multiple feather boards, etc. to keep the stock against the fence and flat to the table for these operations.

[Bob Oswin]

With my Biesemeyer splitter, I can get as close as 1/8" since I have the pawls removed. (Not necessarily a recommended practice...it's safer to make the thin off-cuts on the outside of the blade) Practially 3/4" to 1" rips are fine with a push stick/block. Thinner stock I need to "finish" the cut by pulling through from the back, however, and since that requires pausing the cut, it's best to work with stock longer than you need in case there is any burning, scoring or other damage at the end of the stick.

You have to make a judgement call about using the splitter for thin cuts. It may be better to use multiple feather boards, etc. to keep the stock against the fence and flat to the table for these operations.

It's too bad you can't get an attachment to ride the fence specifically for narrow cuts.
80% of what I cut is less than 8 inches.

Bob

[Jim Becker]

It's too bad you can't get an attachment to ride the fence specifically for narrow cuts.

You can. It comes out of your workshop... :D Seriously, this really is something you can make. Only the Vega fence, that I know of, has a commercial solution for pushing thin stock along the fence.

One other alternative is a wide push block that straddles the blade...ideal for working with small pieces like you describe.

[Dave Arbuckle]

It's too bad you can't get an attachment to ride the fence specifically for narrow cuts.
80% of what I cut is less than 8 inches.

Bob

Bob, I have never used one of these devices, but you might find it interesting: http://www.wonderip.com/ . The inventor participates on another forum I'm active on, seems like a straight-up guy.

Dave