DC port question/tablesaw

[Jan Williamson]

I have a couple of questions I am hoping someone with experience can help me with.
I have been working on the ducting part of the Clearvue, and am now working on the tablesaw port. I have a 2 year old Craftsman ( I know :( ) and it has a 2 inch port coming off the plastic shoot. Should I try to attach a six inch port to the side of the plastic one that is there or just take the whole thing off. I am taking the saw off the mobile base and am installing it into 5 by 5 ft mobile island which includes a 37 inch outfeed. I have a plywood base that the saw is going to be sitting on, with a six inch port attached underneath the blade. I wondering if I should put a screen across the port to keep the bigger pieces of wood from clogging up the system? I plan to install a zero clearance throat plate, but will be using the factory one for angle cuts. Any thoughts?
I'll post pictures as soon as I find my camera.

[Jim Becker]

You need to increase the port size to at least 4" if not 5 or 6 inches. If this is an open bottom saw, perhaps you can incorporate your dust port into the new base you are building. And don't forget you need to get the equivalent amount of air into the saw cabinet for the DC to work efficiently. Calculate that with the zero clearance table insert in mind. Dust collection is about moving air, not "suction"... ;)

[Jan Williamson]

Thanks Jim,
It is an open bottom saw, so do you think I should just take the existing shroud off then? I do have a six inch port in the plywood bottom that is going on. That was the other question, do you think I should install a screen over the port to keep the bigger pieces of wood out of the system? Also there is a pretty good size opening in the front of the cabinet where the arbor tilt degree indicator is. Also right now the whole back is open where the belt driven motor is, but I was going to built a "box" around it.

[Roy Wall]

You will really get the best DC using that 6" port on the bottom- THat's a good idea.

I don't think you need to seal it up "super good"......a lot of this will be trial and error to get the most effective DC. I"d worry about the back more than the front.

Are you planning on a blade cover with 3- 4" DC port also.......this will really help!!

[Jesse Cloud]

I'll take a stab at this question since the others nailed the other parts, but left this one open.
I don't have a screen on mine, and it hasn't been a problem. Unless you have a turbocharged DC, the really large pieces will stay in the saw. The occasional thin strip or small knot make some noise, but don't hurt anything (presume you have a cyclone to separate the big stuff from the dust before it hits the filter).
My fear would be that a screen would get clogged up (and mine would probably stay clogged) and decrease the flow rate. If you do go with the screen, I suggest you figure out some 'quick disconnect' strategy to make it easy to get to the screen for maintenance.
Actually, that's a pretty good strategy anyhow. Sooner or later, you are going to drop the saw's arbor nut and they love to roll into the dc chute and down the hose. DAMHIKT:rolleyes:

[Russ Massery]

Here's what I did with my old contractors saw. The port was on the other side. Like Jim said above go with 6" if you can.http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31274

[Jan Williamson]

Well I think I will use the 6" port on the bottom and take the blade DC shroud. I guess I will try it without a screen, an if it clogs easy I'll make changes. I plan to make a box like enclosure for the back of the saw like Russ's, only from plywood. I'm going to try to make the topside blade cover type DC with a 4 inch hose I don't have the DC wired up yet. I can't seem to post any pic. I'm working on them though

[Jan Williamson]

37202There, I guess I didn't make them small enough. Here is the cabinet so far, it will have a 37" outfeed table and on the righthand front corner it will have a down draft sanding table. A router will go on the left side of the table saw. I hope my ducting works good, but I won't know till I get the Cyclone wired up37203 Thanks for the friendly advise.

[Jan Williamson]

I forgot to mention, I got my saw upgrade kit installed today. Link belt and pulleys, and like Keith said it is like having a new saw. I runs much quieter, and smoother. Hardly any vibration.
Thanks Keith:D