Table Saw Choices

[Rob Will]

Do you use a table saw equipped with a scoring blade?

I'm looking at a PM 72A or a PM 74A.
Any problems with these saws?

Thanks,
Rob

[lou sansone]

you would if you were processing sheet goods.

lou

[tim rowledge]

Yes, a MiniMax CU300; scoring blade and sliding table make for a hard to beat combination when doing sheet work. The solidity and repeatability of the settings is extremely useful for any work.

[Dev Emch]

Depends. I have a scoring blade on my martin but I dont often use it. Being that about the only ply material that I will touch is baltic birch, I find that a good quality blade such as the forrest duraline or duraline AT can leave an almost perfect cut. On stuff such as melamine coated MDF you may wish to use the score. I think the fact that I can get perfect sheet cuts from the combination of the forrest blade and the T-17 is a testament to the quality of the T-17 saw. Throw in a bit of concentricty variance and some vibration and you may have some problems.

Also my blade is 12 inches in diameter. If your using say a 10 inch blade, the smaller diameter may also increase the agressiveness of the exit cut thereby increasing blow out. Just a thought.

In so far as the powermatic saw is concerned. I personally would not choose this machine. They are in the same class as old iron but dont perform anywhere near as well as an oliver 232/270/88 or a tannewitz J or U type or a whitney 77 or 177 type saw. Of course there are also the english saws such as the wadkin PK and the wadkin PP. And of course there are the martin T-17s which are simply put, truely awsome. And who could forget one of my all time favorate table saws of all time..... the venerable Oliver 88-DY. Darn close to being the absolute perfect table saw! Unfortunately you can almost count everyone using your fingers and toes. Well maybe a few more than that but lets keep the math simple.

Just my penny worth.....

[Rob Will]

. And of course there are the martin T-17s which are simply put, truely awsome.....

OK Dev, I'm sitting here looking at a Martin T-17. How is the function of this saw different from say perhaps a Unisaw or a Powermatic? I don't mean what is the difference with the saw's precision but rather what is the difference in the overall design concept. It is obvious that many of the old iron saws have different methods of raise, tilt etc. So what makes these kittens purr?

Rob

[Charlie Plesums]

I also have a saw with sliding table and scoring blade. The scoring blade makes sense with sheet goods - very helpful on the cross cut ply, but can stay up while doing all the cuts. However, that blade is small, and not cheap, so I lower it when I am cutting hardwoods.

I expected the slider to be useful for sheet goods, but I use it constantly for hardwoods as well. Things that required a jig become easy... such as putting the first straight side on a rough board, or tapering a leg, etc.

[Dev Emch]

OK Dev, I'm sitting here looking at a Martin T-17. How is the function of this saw different from say perhaps a Unisaw or a Powermatic? I don't mean what is the difference with the saw's precision but rather what is the difference in the overall design concept. It is obvious that many of the old iron saws have different methods of raise, tilt etc. So what makes these kittens purr?

Rob

Let me put it this way.... You will find four tires on both a Yugo and a Mercedes......

[Rob Will]

Let me put it this way.... You will find four tires on both a Yugo and a Mercedes......

.......and a Mercedes costs 8 times more than a Yugo.

I'm looking for the F-250 of WW machines. A Mercedes would be a status symbol. A Yugo?.... I suppose we could use it to give the F-250 some extra traction.

Rob

[Dev Emch]

.......and a Mercedes costs 8 times more than a Yugo.

I'm looking for the F-250 of WW machines. A Mercedes would be a status symbol. A Yugo?.... I suppose we could use it to give the F-250 some extra traction.

Rob
Extra Traction.... Hmmmmm You mean like those sand bags? Bad example... scratch that. They are used to weigh down the bed until you really need traction. Then the sand is poured under the wheels. Come to think about, now thats an idea.:D

If your looking for a knockout mid class large format traditional table saw, check out the larger general model. See my photos I posted from my trip to The Woodsmith Store in Des Moines Iowa. NICE!!!!!!

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19941&highlight=Woodsmith+Store

[Steven Wilson]

I'm looking for the F-250 of WW machines. A Mercedes would be a status symbol. A Yugo?.... I suppose we could use it to give the F-250 some extra traction.

Rob

If you want something fairly basic but robust, try a Minimax.

[Jeff Singleton]

Rob, There is one big concern you will need to deal with on the PM 72 & 74 and that is the distance from the front of the saw to the blade. It is a country mile, lot of real estate there. I am 6' 1" and I don't fill comfortable reaching as far as the 74 makes you. They are good saws other then that, plenty of power and like my 66 the left blade tilt is a welcome feature. You can get the 66 with a scoring attachment. I would not get anything less then 5 hp which ever route you take.

Jeff Singleton;)