Worx Circular Saw Guide?

[M. A. Espinoza]

I just picked up one of these new saws. Probably not the heaviest of construction but I don't do framing, just use it on sheet goods occasionally.

But in familiarizing myself with this saw I noticed that it seems to be designed for a saw guide.

There is a groove down the length of the baseplate complete with a couple of adjustable tabs that seem to be designed to take out play.

I've looked on the web but can't find any information on a saw guide designed for this saw even though it seems the baseplate is ready for one.

Anybody have any info?

I'll call the company Monday but curiousity is getting to me.

[Bob Noles]

You may want to check this link and other recent posts in that same forum.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=34360

[M. A. Espinoza]

Yeah, I saw that but Dino has it mounted onto his "Smart Base".

I know that will work but why add a sub-base if the factory base already has this designed into it?

The groove is 3 5/8" to the blade .625" wide by .240" deep. Does this match any existing guide rails?

I'll post asking Festool and EZ owners, maybe it was designed to run on another company's track?

Seems odd but there is no mention of what this is for in the owner's manual. Thought maybe it was a Europe-only thing but I can't find any Positec Europe web info.

[Hoa Dinh]

I know that will work but why add a sub-base if the factory base already has this designed into it?
Because otherwise you won't have the zero-clearance-insert feature.

[Burt Waddell]

The saw is made in China and was designed by an Italian. My guess is that it meets somekind of European Spec.

[Al Garay]

Have you seen Dino's video of the Worx with the EZ Guide?
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/album01

It looks like the Worx with no smart base. I have read the Worx does not require the base to use the EZ Guide. That's why it has a greater depth of cut compared to the 325MAG.

[M. A. Espinoza]

Al, I missed that. I'll check again.

Not that the base is any big expense but I would like to still use the case for jobsite work and would like to not have to mess with removing it.

Thanks for the info.