How to fix a mistake

[Alex Berkovsky]

I am about to glue a leg to an apron, but the gap in between the two is bothering me. Since the apron is curved, I had to plane a flat area and took off a bit too much. Is there any way to fix this unsightly gap with a wedge?

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i232/jarhead8286/Woodworking/th_Mistake.jpg (http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i232/jarhead8286/Woodworking/Mistake.jpg)

[Jim Becker]

I think that one is going to be tough, Alex. I normally use slivers of wood with the grain in the same direction as the workpieces to fill in gaps, but this one is tapered and larger than a simple gap. I think you should consider re-making the apron as any fix is going to be quite visible unless you have a huge overhang on the top. IMHO. Not what you probably wanted to hear, but...

[Mike Wenzloff]

Consider veneering the front of the apron. Thin veneer should still leave you the reveal, though less of one between the heights.

Else, like Jim says, time for a new apron.

Take care, Mike

[Alex Berkovsky]

Not what I wanted to hear. There is a 1 1/4" overhang on the top, but I am sure it's still going to be visible. I don't think I am going to make the apron over again - that was the most difficult and time consuming part of the project. If the fix is not easy, I may just leave it like it is and call it a part of the learning process for a newbie.

[Bob Wingard]

How about cutting a shallow groove and applying an inlay ?? You''ll have to do all corners, but it might be easier and less costly than remaking the part.

[Alex Berkovsky]

How about cutting a shallow groove and applying an inlay ?? You''ll have to do all corners, but it might be easier and less costly than remaking the part.Bob,
Your idea sounds interesting and it will add a little "spice" to the table. If I understand you correctly, you are suggesting to make an inlay on the side of each leg. The problem is that I have never made an inlay before. Would I have to chisel it out?

[Bob Wingard]

If you wish to persue this idea, I would suggest that you first obtain your choice of inlay .. .. hold it firmly in position against the leg .. .. scribe the apron with a very sharp knife .. .. then chisel out the recess and insert the inlay. I'm sure there are other methods equally as effective, but this is probably what I'd try first. Remember, the inlay CAN but does not NEED to be fancy .. .. a simple strip of contrasting wood can be just as elegant as anything. If you want to go fancy, the sky's the limit .. .. .. for no more product than you'll need, the cost won't be too great. Do a little searching to see what's available .. .. I'm sure you'll find something to your liking.


Here's one good source .. .. ..

http://216.244.124.61/mfg-subcat-item.asp?CID=28&scid=34&mid=-1

[Vaughn McMillan]

I second the suggestion for an inlay. (It's a feature, not a bug. ;) ) I used 1/8" wide inlay to cover up a sloppy joint between the top and sides of this pool cue case:

37026

The purpleheart strip around the perimeter is 1/4" deep inlay, but the other stripes run all the way through the 3/8" thickness of the top (and bottom) of the case. I used a 1/8" router bit and an edge guide to cut the recess for the inlay. Since I already had the 1/8" wide stripes in the pattern, my "fix" ended up looking like part of the plan.

I'm sure you can salvage your project, and instead of looking at the blemish as a learning experience, you'll be able to look at the "save" as a different kind of learning experience.

- Vaughn

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Can you just shorten the length of the table by 1/4". If you can't do one end due to symetry I'd do both ends.

[Richard Wolf]

Alex, I like Dennis's idea first, if you can shorten both side equally do that. The second choice is to carefully cut a wedge with the grain going the same direction, glue in and scrape to smooth. I'm not try to be critical, but, you have spent alot of time on this table and it was an ambitious project for your first one. Realize that every thing you build is a learning experience. I don't like to settle for less than perfect, most of us don't, but look at it for want it is, a first project. Fix it the best you can and get on to the next one. Call me if you need help, I'm always availible.

Richard

[Barry Bruner]

Couldn`t you back cut the tenion side slithtly with a sharp chisel where the two side will meet square. Barry Bruner

[Jason Morgan]

Is it possible to make the piece shorter? If its for a table, an 1/8 or even 1/4 off of each end wond make that pig of a difference. If its a more complicated piece, then I would consider making it over. The inlay idea is good if it will fit in with the overall design.

Jason

[Alex Berkovsky]

Alex, I like Dennis's idea first, if you can shorten both sides equally do that. Richard,
I cannot shorten the sides since the back apon is already glued (not visible in the picture).

The second choice is to carefully cut a wedge with the grain going the same direction, glue in and scrape to smooth.This suggestion was the first thought that came into my mind and it's probably the easiest solution.

I'm not try to be critical, but, you have spent alot of time on this table and it was an ambitious project for your first one. Realize that everything you build is a learning experience. I don't like to settle for less than perfect, most of us don't, but look at it for want it is, a first project. Fix it the best you can and get on to the next one.Well said... it is my first project and mistakes should be expected and learned from. Like you said, time to finish it and move on. As much as the inlays would look nice, but I'd be asking for trouble.

[Sam Chambers]

Alex:

You've already received some good ideas. I'm a relative newbie too, and I've found that a big part of this hobby is learning how to disguise the inevitable mistakes.

I'd try the "glue in a wedge with closely matching grain" trick, and see if you like the results. If not, and you have enough stock left, I'd try veneering the entire rail. The inlay idea would be a little tricky, but it's certainly do-able if you have a router.

Another idea: Is the back rail also curved? If so , maybe you can put this "front" rail against the wall after you try the wedge trick!

Good luck, and make sure to post some "after" pics.

[Frank Chaffee]

Alex,
Unless I’m really missing something here, that joint is the front apron and is not glued yet. You said the back apron is glued, but did not indicate whether the side aprons are glued or not. Regardless of the state of the side aprons, changing the length of the front apron and causing the table frame to become very slightly out of square will not appreciably affect either the attachment of the top or anyone’s visual perception of the table as a whole.

I would use any simple cutting tools (utility knife, jack knife, file, chisel…), to create the depth and width required on the tenon to fit the mortise, and cut the tenon shorter with any available saw.

Hope this helps, tho considering that those who have posted before me did not suggest this makes me wonder if I understand you situation.
Frank

[EDIT]

I realize alot of people don't understand this problem. This is a Demilume table with a curved front rail…Richard
Thank you Richard,
For pointing out to me the plane the curve is on. I thought Alex was referring to a simple arc on the underside of the front apron.
Foolish me.
Frank

[Richard Wolf]

Alex,
Hope this helps, tho considering that those who have posted before me did not suggest this makes me wonder if I understand you situation.
Frank

I realize alot of people don't understand this problem. This is a Demilume table with a curved front rail, that Alex has spend alot of time on. The fix isn't as easy as you may think from the photo.
Not that we should except mediocority (sp), but a redo at this point may take the wind out of Alex's sails.

Richard

[Jim Becker]

I realize alot of people don't understand this problem. This is a Demilume table with a curved front rail, that Alex has spend alot of time on. The fix isn't as easy as you may think from the photo.
Not that we should except mediocority (sp), but a redo at this point may take the wind out of Alex's sails.

For this reason, the simple inlay idea rocks...

[Ian Barley]

Alex

Given all the information I have - I agree with Richard leave it and move on. The problem with knowing everything about what you make yourself is that you know everything about what you make yourself. I make lots of chairs. My customers are invariably delighted with them and believe them to be made to a very high standard. I am often unhappy with them and know everywhere that a component is 1/2mm out of place or has ended up at 89.75 degrees instead 90. Complete the piece and for the first 20 people that you show it to convince yourself not to mention the fault that you are worrying about here. Not one of them will notice it and if they do, and mention it, they are a philistine and as such should be ignored.

The great thing about woodworking isn't achieving perfection. It is wanting to achieve perfection. That way you always have to keep going to make the next thing better than the last.

Make sure you show us the pics when you finish the project - and no - don't include a close up of this feature.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Think of the inlay as a Re-Design and not a fix.
It is a redesign because of the following:
It is a new ethos in your design direction.
It requires you to rethink the overall look of the table as well as the placement a a piece of furniture and it's fit therein.
It requires a different quantum of materials and technique.

Because it is a redesign there is no meangful relationship between the concept of error and the new design any more than there would be had you purchased a 24" thickness sander instead of a 48" one thereby requiring you to incorporate that particular technical capacity into your designs and work.

[Richard Wolf]

Alex

Given all the information I have - I agree with Richard leave it and move on. The problem with knowing everything about what you make yourself is that you know everything about what you make yourself. I make lots of chairs. My customers are invariably delighted with them and believe them to be made to a very high standard. I am often unhappy with them and know everywhere that a component is 1/2mm out of place or has ended up at 89.75 degrees instead 90. Complete the piece and for the first 20 people that you show it to convince yourself not to mention the fault that you are worrying about here. Not one of them will notice it and if they do, and mention it, they are a philistine and as such should be ignored.

The great thing about woodworking isn't achieving perfection. It is wanting to achieve perfection. That way you always have to keep going to make the next thing better than the last.

Make sure you show us the pics when you finish the project - and no - don't include a close up of this feature.

Boy, am I on the same page as Ian. The biggest mistake novices make is to point out all their mistakes.

Richard

[Kent Parker]

The great thing about woodworking isn't achieving perfection. It is wanting to achieve perfection. That way you always have to keep going to make the next thing better than the last.

That's a great thought Ian!!

Alex, I have to applaud you for trying so hard. It is that very mind set that will allow you to hone your skills and fine tune future projects.

Just curious, no one has mentioned the type of finish for your project (stain, varnish ect?). This could mask your little spot slightly?

Cheers,

Kent