Plastic Laminate apply tricks??

[Jerry Olexa]

As part of a nightstand I'm building, I included a pull out tray at top. I cut out the 3/4 inch ply underlay and will edge it later w routed 1" cherry. My question is the applying of the plastic laminate over the 3/4 ply. I've cut it oversize about 1/4 " each side. Plan to use contact cement both surfaces. Any tricks/hints to doing this? I know you only get 1 chance w plastic lam and it sticks. LMK if there's anything I should look out for. I know this is a little outside the usual WWing questions. Thanks

[tod evans]

jerry, first make sure there`s no little specks of sawdust on either the substraight or the laminate.....don`t ask! if the piece is small just eyeball it and lay it down starting at one edge and press it down firmly by hand then roll it out. if it`s a big piece i use metal venetian blind slats to space the laminate above the substraight and remove `em one at a time pressing the laminate down as i go, once it`s all stuck roll it out..02 tod

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jerry.....as Tod says....contact cement and the metal venetian blind slats work well! I've had good luck rolling the laminate out with the aid of a J roller purchased at most of the borgs. Good luck!

[Hank Knight]

Jerry, I've found that I get a better edge for gluing hardwood edging to a laminated plywood substrate if I make it a little oversized and cut it to size on my table saw after I apply and trim the laminate. A good carbide tipped blade gives me a nice smooth edge on both the laminate and the plywood for gluing on the edging. Cutting the substrate to size initially, gluing the laminate and flush trimiming it with a router has given me generally unsatisfactory results. I've tried several different kinds of flush trim router bits for the laminate and they never give me the nice crisp edge I get from the tablesaw.
My $.02. Good luck with your project. Post pics when you're done.
Hank

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Tod's comment is pretty important if it is a thin grade laminate that is glossy. The slightest spec of hard dust will show up. The only thing that I would add is to use solvent based contact cement instead of waterbased. I've have mixed results with waterbased, and never any issues with solvent based cement as far as adhesion goes. Just make sure you ventilate well. The solvent based stuff is flammable and volitile.

Oh...and a cheap J-roller is a nice tool to help roll out the trapped bubbles should they occur. But be careful near the edges with the roller where the laminate overlaps the substrate. Too much pressure can crack the unsupported laminate in a place where trimming the laminate later won't remove it.

cheers, Jeff

[Steve Clardy]

I usually screw on a couple of stops on the back side of counters, to help align the back side.
3/8" dowels rods laid every 12"
If its a long sheet, get some help to lay in place. Start one end pulling dowels, laying laminate down, on down the line.
I use a wooden mallet and a 1x4x4 smooth block to set the glue. No roller.
Trim with carbide laminate bit w/ bearing, with laminate trimmer, or any small router

[Doug Shepard]

...The only thing that I would add is to use solvent based contact cement instead of waterbased. I've have mixed results with waterbased, and never any issues with solvent based cement as far as adhesion goes. Just make sure you ventilate well. The solvent based stuff is flammable and volitile.
...


Me too. I've never had an issue with the solvent based stuff. The WB stuff that I got from HD wasn't very good. I got WB from a pro cabinet supply shop once that was just as good (if not better) than the solvent based stuff. Only problem is I cant remember what brand it was (not the same as what HD carried).

[Steve Clardy]

Did this yesterday. Notice the back stops I was referring to. Helps with alignment, especially if you are by yourself, like me most of the time.

[Jerry Olexa]

Did this yesterday. Notice the back stops I was referring to. Helps with alignment, especially if you are by yourself, like me most of the time.

Thanks Steve. Good idea. I'll use as I'll be alone other than LOML:rolleyes: Its a small pull out shelf about 20" by 30".

[Jerry Olexa]

Thanks Tod,Ken, Hank, Jeff, Steve and Doug!! Helpful stuff to a rookie like me. I don't do much laminate work but it'll protect the pull out top drawer of this piece for coffee, etc. I'm concerned as I had planned to do final trim with a Flush trim bit. Sounds like that can be "tricky". I've already cut the ply underlayment to exact size about 20" by 30" and cut the laminate about 1/4 " extra on each side. Is there a special bit I should use after gluing or a slower speed on router or ? Thanks. Maybe I'll glue a small piece and route that as a test. When building cabinets, I found a flush trim bit works beautiful on joining wooden face frame to carcass side...:confused:

[Steve Clardy]

Jerry. Most any flush trim with bearing bearing will work for occasional lam trimming.
They do make one thats got better, different carbide if you do a lot of lam trimming.

[tod evans]

Is there a special bit I should use after gluing or a slower speed on router or ? :confused:

jerry, most laminate trimmers spin faster than a regular router so i wouldn`t slow it down any....02 tod

[Jerry Olexa]

Done! Using your tips, I glued it today. Went well. Steve, I used your "stop" idea and alignment was perfect,
Again, Thanks to all, In a few days, I'll trim off the edges and finish w cherry trim.

[Steve Clardy]

Sounds great!!