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View Full Version : How would you cut this???



Hal Flynt
04-19-2006, 4:19 PM
I want to build some Colonial Posts for some deck railing and am trying to figure the best way to cut the cove section under the pointed top. ( I can cut the top on my bandsaw and give it a more graceful curve than store bought).

It looks like the coves were cut on a table saw due to the tearout at the top.

Help and thanks!

David Duke
04-19-2006, 4:22 PM
Cut the cove on the BS also.

Jim Becker
04-19-2006, 4:27 PM
One technique for this (and many other sculpted outdoor cuts) is having the material stationary and the bandsaw on casters. This is quite often used for pergola work, for example. A 12" - 14" bandsaw with a 3/16" blade will likely do the job nicely in this manner.

Andy Hoyt
04-19-2006, 4:34 PM
I'd use one of these (http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_27_40027_-1_281171_189345_362).

Jerry Strojny
04-19-2006, 4:44 PM
yep...bandsaw.

tod evans
04-19-2006, 4:52 PM
hal, those where most likely cut on a hauncher, but for short run work a bandsaw is probably going to be your best bet for the top, you may be able to find a large diameter corebox bit for the cove? .02 tod

Bruce Page
04-19-2006, 5:07 PM
Hal, if you have a bunch to do I’d make an indexing jig that holds the post on its side and cut the cove or half circle with a hole saw or forstner bit using a drill press and a slow feed rate. You can get deep cutting hole saw cutters or you could come at it from both sides.

Doyle Alley
04-19-2006, 5:13 PM
What about a radial arm saw using a moulding head cutter (the kind that sears used to sell). I see them pop up on fleabay every so often.

Carl Eyman
04-19-2006, 5:32 PM
Doyle: If you are going to use a molding head cutterr (and I hope you won't) Please let me know so I can plan to be away from Florida that day!

Hal Flynt
04-19-2006, 6:04 PM
Thanks Guys,

I tried the bandsaw and it's not too bad for one post even though you have to cut it from 2 directions due to the length on the long side, but I have 10 to do. I have reasonable skills at cutting scrolls on the bandsaw, but not confident that they would all be the same. I could clean the cut up on a sanding sleeve in my drill press of the right size. Moving the bandsaw and fixed stock isn't feasible in my shop.

I was going to use the hole saw/forstner bit and put two side by side, thus cutting one cove in each post. The first two opposite side cuts go fairly well, then it gets a little tricky in my head when I start the ones where the stock has been removed. This may still work with a guide to start the cut on the reamaining sides.

I gave my radial arm saw to my son. I wouldn’t try it with a molding cutter anyway, that thing scared me every time I tried it.

I even thought of using my jointer and putting a stop on the infeed table and letting the post down slowly. It just makes me nervous to have those 3 spinning blades out above the table like that.

How about putting a track down on my table saw at the correct angle to get the right size cove, and then build a sled to carry the posts across the blade at that angle??

I really need a jig of some sort.

Bob Johnson2
04-19-2006, 7:11 PM
I'd try the TS method although I think it's frowned upon these days.

Lee DeRaud
04-19-2006, 7:24 PM
I was going to use the hole saw/forstner bit and put two side by side, thus cutting one cove in each post. The first two opposite side cuts go fairly well, then it gets a little tricky in my head when I start the ones where the stock has been removed. This may still work with a guide to start the cut on the reamaining sides.I think that's both the easiest and the safest way. Looking at the photo, the coves aren't quite semicircular, so you could use a Forstner bit in the 2.5"-3" range, with a 3/4" or so sacrificial spacer in between the posts to give you a starting point on the "odd" sides. You could do it with a handheld drill, but a drill press and some kind of support for the other end of the post(s) would make the whole operation a lot less fussy.

Ken Belisle
04-19-2006, 7:32 PM
Exactly how big is that cove?? Amana makes cove bits up to a 1" radius. Cut a square notch all around, (with dado or router) then 2 passes all around with a large cove bit to round it out, top & bottom. Cut the cove before you cut the top and you should have plenty of area to rest the router or sit it on the table.

Just a thought..............

Dave Richards
04-20-2006, 9:15 AM
I'd do them on my ornamental mill with a router but I'm guessing you don't have one of those.

You could maybe do the coves with a large forstner bit with some scrap clamped to the side.

A simple guide for the router could be used to cut the ends.

Dino Makropoulos
04-20-2006, 10:06 AM
I want to build some Colonial Posts for some deck railing and am trying to figure the best way to cut the cove section under the pointed top. ( I can cut the top on my bandsaw and give it a more graceful curve than store bought).

It looks like the coves were cut on a table saw due to the tearout at the top.

Help and thanks!

I think the drill press idea is great.
The fun idea: :cool:
With a circular saw and 2 -- 1x4s to guide the saw
perpendicular to the posts.
Pictures later.

Craig Feuerzeig
04-20-2006, 11:09 AM
I'd probably opt for the table saw, but Dino may be right. Send the saw across the posts on an angle to create the cove. I've had good luck using a dado blade, because it's an awful lot of meat. Try multiple passes depth-wise. But safety first.

Frank Chaffee
04-20-2006, 1:05 PM
Hal,
Personally I think that either a portable bandsaw as Andy suggests, or the hole saw Bruce suggests are the most efficient ways to cut these coves because those blades will cut though the least amount of stock, and in fewer passes.

The portable bandsaw could be rented for this one-off (10-off, 40-off?), job, and used with a template that indexes to layout lines further from the cut.

Hole saws get really hot, and would maybe be best cooled with a can of water and dried with compressed air. Gang drilling 2x/ with a sacrificial piece will work well with either a hole saw or forstner bit.

But since this may be a once in a lifetime experience, I think that Dino presents the most exciting method:
• Gang and clamp the ten posts.
• Make a series of parallel cuts with circular saw at graduated depths.
• Remove the waste with a cat’s paw bar.
• Clean the bottom with one or two passes of the circular saw turned at an angle and guided by 1x’s screwed or clamped to the gang.

Frank

tod evans
04-20-2006, 1:19 PM
hal, if you look skill put out a version of their wormdrive for a couple of years that would accept 3/4 bore shaper cutters. framers used them for cutting birdsmouths a stack at a time with a 4" straight cutter..02 tod

Bobby Hatfield
04-20-2006, 1:31 PM
Used a 3-1/4" forstner bit on drill press with a jig on 5" timbers when I did a job like that. Make the jig using heavy hardwood timber backup for support of the bit on all the cuts after first one to make the jig. Band saw on the point using pattern to draw the point, bradnail the scrap back on for support of the post on the bandsaw table, until fourth side is cut then pry them off. Bobby

Dino Makropoulos
04-20-2006, 7:21 PM
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/album01

It was fun, safe, easy and fast.
The Dead Wood Concept rules.:rolleyes:

Frank Chaffee
04-20-2006, 8:28 PM
DINO!!!
The link you offer shows the most simplistic and pedantic use of your otherwise versatile system. For all the inherent capabilities of your base and rails, surely you could show people how to make cove cuts more sophisticated than regular arcs!
Frank

Dino Makropoulos
04-20-2006, 8:44 PM
Thanks Frank.
Do you saw the video with the cabinetmaker?
In my small office (Edison NJ) I have only one picture.:cool:

Frank Chaffee
04-20-2006, 11:05 PM
Thanks Frank.
Do you saw the video with the cabinetmaker?
In my small office (Edison NJ) I have only one picture.:cool:
Sorry Dino,
Here at the far end of the cow pasture we don’t get much video… I think they chew that tasty modern stuff into their cud.
Frank

Hal Flynt
04-21-2006, 1:33 PM
Wow guys,

Thanks for all the input.

Dino, great insight!
Lee, I hadn't considered the sacrificial center piece, does 2 things for me.
Tod, I’ll look there, may be a tool buying excuse.

All of you have helped me narrow down my approach. I will let you know what and how I end up doing this. SWMBO may have another design in mind now with a flat top and pineapples, oh LOML.

Well I’m taking off early and heading across the mountain to Lake Janaluska with LOML for the weekend with my Community Group from Church, so it will be building relationships and not posts this weekend.

Have a good one!

Frank Fusco
04-21-2006, 5:56 PM
I might get ex-communicated for suggesting this, but posts like that can be bought ready made from Lowe's. Uh-Oh! :eek:

Dino Makropoulos
04-21-2006, 8:31 PM
I might get ex-communicated for suggesting this, but posts like that can be bought ready made from Lowe's. Uh-Oh! :eek:

Why don't I think of that before?:rolleyes: ;) That was easy.
Room for two?